sstein

I wondered this as well, so i took my street bike and welded on some v brake mounts. Perfect compromise.

if designed and made correctly chromo is better than alu for durability. Geometry is a personal choice, no one else can tell you what you want.

as long as you do it properly you can chase threads as much as you like, the process will not remove any material as long as it is not damaged/warped, it is just like screwing in a bb. As for boring out i would recommend highly against it

My juicy 3 had a bit of problems at first but after rebleeding it and changing the disc which comes with it, it has become absolutely phenomenal. Nice feel and good power (for front anyway). saying this, either brake will work fine if set up and maintained properly.

I think this is silly. Carbon is no doubt stronger than alu or steel on paper and in tests like that, the problem lies elsewhere. If I had a bad crash on a steel frame, as long as it did not crack i would still ride it. If I had the same crash on a carbon frame I would be very worried as most damage would not be visible. Also a bad scrape can ruin carbon where steel or alu would be fine. Carbon is amazingly light and strong but I think it is better off kept to uses where it will not constantly be smashed into stuff.

First of all they are all pawl based systems, a freecoaster is not. If I had to guess I would say that you would go through about 1 outside bearing a week and perhaps even break the hub shell on the clutch side, unless you gave up with pedal kicking all together.

Do you know how free coasters work? Even a high quality freecoaster would not take trials-forces for very long because of the method of engagement.

trials forces would destroy that because of the way freecoaster engagement works

the half link will be the weakest link in the chain however you will be less likely to snap it than with a full half link chain. Saying this I snap a lot of chains and have never had a problem with a single half link since i started using them, but i tend to replace my chain when ever i feel the need. You can USUALLY tell when a chain is close to snapping

furthest ive done on a trials bike is just over 21 miles. Man up

thinking of east london ride. whos in?

forks are definitely holroyds

will be out that afternoon. about 5ish if you are still around

anyone up for riding watford on the 28th?

anyone know where to buy a v booster from these days with 100mm spacing?

any signs of twisting on the rear end? i had two; a trials one and a dirt jump one both from high-ten. my trials one twisted pretty quickly but my streety one seems fine, i have also seen some twisting on one of his mods, i am just wondering if it is the seat tubeless design.

hey guys. i previously had a marino when he started making them a while back which didnt last to well. He refunded me and has offered to do me a good deal on the chromo frames now he is doing them. My question is what are peoples experiences with his stuff for street, not tgs but proper spinny, flowy street riding? anyone who has one could you please say if it has been ok and how long you have had it? cheers

balls to that, you had more than enough speed, you just did not tuck enough

dont do it matt. gears suck

sorry missed the bit about it being a front

pro 2s can use an m10 female axle system. just use that

it is not quite as simple as that. it is not just a matter of heating it and then letting it cool. you first need a jip t stop it warping, you need to heat it to whatever temperature for a specific time and then quench it rapidly to keep the material properties what they are at the higher temperature, you then need a second treatment at a lower temperature. To be honest no matter how much you like the frame considering the time/cost/effort it would take to do it and the fact that it may not turn out right it is not really worth it. You are better off getting a new frame or if you love the frame that much trying to get hold of a second hand one

I have to disagree with the general opinion in this topic. I should say that I have not used the revell mod but I had the stock version and I loved it. It really depends on what style you want to ride and geometry is a preference thing. They are quite old school but nice none the less

on the point of whether to leave them or not, i would say not. I ride so much that my calluses actually get to the point that the whole callus rips off and my hands start bleeding, i've found that i actually have to cut mine down (sounds disgusting but saves a lot of pain) I have heard of people using those ped egg things to clean their calluses up. If you are getting them with foam grips you must be either new to riding or riding a lot more than you used to so keep an eye on how bad they get

there is a chance that chai, myself and a few others will be hitting london for an end of year ride fri 30th and probs going for drinks afterwards. Anyone else fancy coming?