sstein

I live in Watford and StJohnsWood depending on the day. Give me a call 08715533868. By the way there are loads of London riders. Go and speak to the guys in the Waterloo Evans as there are 3 that work there!

To look at what he can do, look at his previous work: links : pg 1 pg 2 He can copy pretty much any design.

That is how you should have written that. Please make your posts easier to understand.

Maybe it is just me them.

The easiest way to solve this is just keep riding and riding until your arms are so built up that it no longer affects you!

I might get one and I want to know how they feel to ride and how strong they are.

I need a new frame. My choices at the moment are an 06 Echo pure, 09 Zoo Piranha or the Atomz Premier. I am quite heavy (90kg odd) and I am after a frame that will last, what do you guys think!

But the tool? Or you could put the freewheel in a vice, crank it up so it crushs the bearings and then just turn the crank.

I think Jack and I agreed on some natural if the weather was not terrible.

I did say that it shouldn't be catching, just so he could check and see.

I'm pretty sure that is not because it is worn as it is not the chain jumping off but it is rather getting stuck between ring and bash. It could be that your chain is too wide, which it shouldn't be, or chainline might be off casuing it to drag to much on the bash and get sucked in. On the other hand the ring could be worn soo much that at the lower position the chain is pushed closer to the bash by the fact the ring is wider at the base than the top. I would say try changing the chainline by moving the position of the rear sprocket (closer to the centre of the hub) and if that doesn't work get a new ring!

Any reason you needed three posts to say the same thing?

As I said it is no longer a problem as it was my 24/7 frame snapping that I heard not a bad freewheel skip. As for getting a mashed freewheel off, just stick it in a vice, clamp it up really tight and turn the crank.

As someone has already said, file the sides of the bb and use and adjustable spanner to undo it (like a euro bmx bb).

Don't worry, not that important anymore as I just snapped my frame with a fast fakie. (Don't ask how, don't know)

Tugs for the win.

I have started riding my old trials bike as a brakeless street bike as I prefer the size to theat of my bmx. I have found with fast 180 (and the occasional three tap attempt) the freewheel tends to skip and at high speed that can hurt a lot. What I want to know is what freewheel is the most reliable? I am running a try-all 108.9 at the moment. I am not too worried about the amount of engagements but I would like it to have more than 24 as I still do trialsy stuff, however it needs to take a beating and preferably be cheap. I can't run a pro 2 as I am running modstock and I don't want a profile, so freewheel only.

I used to use it and loved it. I have now got a lot smoother and I can't stand it.

Yeah. Just put the link onto the chain before removing it from the half link chain as half links have a tendancy to fall apart when not part of a chain!

You can get half links from crc. If you must go for one get a Spank one as they are mint, however I strongly reccomend getting a normal chain as they are stronger, smoother and will last longer, if it is a tensioning problem run a single half link.

Read the whole thread. Are you joking blue bikes are mint!

I might come, not too sure though (I have an exam on monday)!

Come on people!

Almost got 3 taps off objects.

First of all the steel used in Marino frames is A53 carbon steel, I did a bit of background research and it appears to have similar qualities to chromo but a tiny bit weaker. I think the actual problem is with the actual tubing used not the material, for instance the thickness and diameter. I dented my Marino on the third ride (small one on the downtube) which was not great and I didn't hit it that hard, however I have the intelligence to see that it is an untested custom frame that cost £90, so don't care too much. I did ask Marino about making frames out of 4130 or reynolds and was told the reason that he doesn't do it is that it would cost a lot to get the tubing to him, so he would have to heavily up the price of his frames (probably double them, however he is going to start using true temper tubing soon. Do you think this would cover my dented frame as it did go a bit prematurely?