sstein

DO NOT overbleed a disc brake and DO NOT bleed it with water!

I actually did this for a while. Worked alright

Really, where did you get this great snippet of information? Last I checked freewheels are freewheels whether you choose to screw them to your crank or hub. There are a few reasons to put a freewheel on the cranks rather than the hub but increased reliability is not one of them. Saying this however, I also do think freehubs are more reliable than freewheels but that is a seperate issue.

consider this http://vimeo.com/30200266 24tour the movie

I would say get your backflips pretty dialled first and wear a lot of padding

if it helps i know rickshaw riders almost always use shimano calipers on motorbike levers (designed for dot fluid) with mineral oil and it does not cause any issues

21 miles on my trials bike in one go. Used to do about 120+miles a week on my trials bike though

Not really planning to sell any, more just because I enjoy making stuff. Might give 1 or 2 away for testing purposes but I already know who is gonna get them

Yeah 22*1.6 (when i make the first few out of hi-ten) and then that will go down to 22*1.2 when I go to reynolds

shit design though. you need to remove some material from the lip or else your brake moves.

cheers for the advice dude. Do you reckon that a conduit bender would be strong enough to bend reynolds chainstays? The average cheapy conduit bender has the right size die and I am not mass producing frames. If it could work it would be a much easier option

actually gonna try doing it without a bending machine and instead use a wooden guide (I know this is possible with sand bending). Also whether or not it requires crimping depends on the chainstay length and tyre width, pretty sure that I wont get clearance with a standard bend (no crimp) with the measurements i want.

hey guys, i am gonna be building a couple of frames for myself at home and I am after a bit of advice from anyone who has experience. Basically I am after advice on bending and crimping the chainstays for tyre clearance. I am going to be sand bending the tubes, would it be better to crimp first and bend after or the other way around?

as much as i like this idea it is totally wrong. You just need the right reach to make you feel comfortable. wheel size is just preferance

I live in london. when you coming over?

well seeing as the seller is csg, i would say they are legit

in theory curved should absorb vibrations better. In practice it is hard to tell because alu forks tend to be curved and steel tend to be straight so a lot of what you feel could be the material differences, however I have found that curved seem to feel nicer on gaps to front and staight forks with shoulders like the planet x ones are painful if you try footjams or fall on them.

no one going to make a joke about greasing your o-ring so things slip in there easier?

i have to say that i used to use a ybn 9spd that was ridiculously strong. shame they stopped making it

I have to say that I have never had problems with split links (well most of them anyway, the sram ones are shit). I try not to reuse them but I have only ever snapped one (not including sram) and I have snapped plenty of chains.

Either are fine. It is preference choice. Risers when angled correctly are better for your wrists as it is a more natural angle however most trials riders angle there bars so far forward that the back-sweep of the bars actually becomes up-sweep. If that is the case it is the same as using flat bars with a longer stem. If you are in the process of learning then I doubt you will notice much of a difference.

The Gay Side

Pretty sure the frame is an Ozonys king of dunce v1 frame

You just need to get used to the different body position. Give it some time and keep practising.

could be carving to hard and doing a euro style bunnyhop. try not to carve and to pull up while looking over your shoulder