sstein

Good shots man, but where is the Lid?

get a giro indicator from halfords!

It is a tiny bit easier to spin a 24" bike but I much prefer my 26" Old school Trex. Either are fine just get something with a decent geo. If 26" try and get your hands on something old school like a 02 t-rex, planet x zebedi or a custom build.

Not really noticeable, however good trials specific freewheels generally have more engagement points than freehubs. What I would say is that for street a rear freewheel/freehub is better as you are generally going faster than in trials and coasting a lot more, so the chain/sprocket will wear less as they will not be moving as much and you are less likely to catch your trousers. Personally I am a big fan of 'burns up front and a pro 2 on the rear, but a rear freewheel is just as good if you prefer that.

There are loads of london riders on here, and loads more that come up often. I live in farringdon, you have rago muffin, hoots man, fixed pants, register and more, plus loads more guys that come up regularly. Do a member search!

that wasn't a waste of time

I'm in! Will be good to be on a good ride again!

yes you can replace it (as glen already said). Send them off to TF tuned and they will do it. My DJ1 forks have had a new steerer think it cost around £30 from marzoochi and took about 1 week.

I have never had this problem and I don't grease the nipples until after all of the spokes are in place. Are you sure you turned them all the same amount? Also you have to consider the fact that after 3 or so spokes are in the spokes can't really turn enough to undo the nipples.

In the amount of time you have spent on here you could have easily made one!

and who told you that! You need to put grease on there just like any interface that you don't want to get stuck together forever. If you have ever had to cut a crank arm off an old bike to replace the bottom bracket you will know what I mean.

What welded onto the fork or welded closed. If the later well then , but if the earlier then it often does work and I have done it a fair few times.

I say a guy ride one of them past me today, they look quite nice actually.

To remove them use a socket rench extension bar and keep adding small extension bars where necessary until it fall out the bottom of the steerer.

It is a way of working out how many teeth you should have on a driver for street riders. To be honest it seems like quite a flawed system as it does not appear to have a ratio system and because of this it all means very little, however the numbers can be compared to see what equivalent drivers would be like, for instance an 11/12 tooth driver on a 26" would be roughly equivalent to an 8 tooth driver on a 20" providing you use the same size chainring. (Unless I am mistaken)

Only if it has the cutting disk, otherwise it could take more effort and be a lot noisier!

Man the F@CK up and go out in the rain!

You can still use tugs, just need good ones. However saying that; on my marino I used two washers against the cam bolts (one on each side) to get rid of most of the slack and then used a 74kingz to get rid of the rest. Worked ace, it was like the best of horizontal and the best of vertical dropouts, in the sense that my wheelbase/etc... could be fine tuned and I did not need to use half links or double jockey wheel tensioners, however every time I put the wheel in it was in the same place and it never sliped or changed tensioner. Plus with the use of a sprung tensioner I did not have tightspot problems and with the 74kingz used like this it was almost impossible to catch. picture

Wasn't talking about that one!

Hahaha, you are so wrong! In fact if I had to get a decent lock (which I will anyway) I would go for a magnum plus and never a kryptonite. A friend of mine was telling me how there is a fault with the locking system on most kryptonites meaning that they can be easily picked with an odd method (not going to say what it is) and even if they couldn't you can get through them with bolt cutters and various other methods.

I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I changed my mind based on the fact that when some pikey tries to steal it and can't get through the lock, they will just smash it up. I am in the middle of trying to find a really cheap frame that I can still ride trials on but not have to worry if it gets stolen or broken!

Went to do an up to bash and misjudged my timings, the front hit the wall about 15-30cm too low and i just stopped and went over the bars, so lucky that I walked out of that one without serious injury!

If it has been fitted recently this will tend to happen as all the parts compress!

Once again, it is all dependent on your setup. What sort of grind (harsh/medium/light) as different pads are for different grinds. I would say your best bet is to get some avid sd5 brake arms and lever and a decent set of v-pads meant for the sort of grind that you will be using. Once again; Heatsink pads seem quite popular for Vs, I would also look at rock v-pads for a medium grind.