sstein

Put it in the frame< the frame will force it back in

To be honest I have never been a fan of water bleeds, cause the feel really changes depending on the temperature. As I said though it has the best feel of any brake I have used.

Got Phatphluid the other day and fitted some new Phatpads at the same time as well. The feeling off the brake with the phluid in is immense, best feeling maggie I have used to date. For some reason the pads are not as powerful as I remember when I first got a set and I have almost no noise despite the being set up perfectly, perhaps they just need some bedding in. P.S. I should clarify, I am not saying the pads are underpowerful, they are fine, I just remember ore power on my last set.

I had a long response written out but my computer crashed and I lost it. All I really need to say is that it depends on how well a frame is designed as to how flex will affect it. If a frame is designed around a certain level of flex such that the frame dissipates said flexing forces through a large area of the frame and not a single point then the flex can indeed make the frame more resistant to failure. If however the frame is designed to be ultrastiff and flex is caused by the natural deterioration of the material after a certain amount of use then it will cause the frame to break. I never said that the frame will not break, only that it is less likely

I would like to question this statement. a metal will have the same breaking point irrespective of it's rigidity, for example if you were to take the same amount of alloy and make a solid rod rather than a hollow tube it would have the same tensile strength yet the tube would be much stiffer because of it's overall diameter. If anything flexy frames are less likely to snap because they will reduce the momentum caused by impact rather than stopping it in a single go, thus there will be a slower acceleration and less force actually put through the frame. In my opinion the best frames are sufficiently rigid not to feel flexy yet have enough movement to make the ride more comfortable, that is why steel frames feel great because they are stiff yet allow a certain amount of flex

I suppose 12 at London bridge and we will make our way to Vicci park, unless there are other suggestions

I love how everyone says things about money, don't get me wrong I want to be rich but do you really think you will look back on your deathbed and go 'eh, at least I had money'. Rather morbidly I don't really care a great deal about dying and have nothing that I really want to do before it happens, perhaps punch my brother as hard as I can in the face

Come on people get your assess down to London for what could be the last London ride of the year.

Clear rubber hosing from B&Q and 2 zipties.

lol, it is still quite an achievement though. I congratulate you, you should add it to your CV

haha, supreme translation dear boy. Where ever did you learn to understand retard with such a natural fluency though?

Now that is how a sponsored rider writes a response!

I am a big fan of the hammer technique when done carefully, however the majority of people who have not done it before, or are not careful, or who do not have a correctly reamed headtube can easily damages their frame or headset and it is something that as a mechanic I would never tell a customer to do.

do not do either of those things. If you are not confident take it to a bike shop. The best way to fit a headset without damaging anything is with a headset press, if you dont have one a vice works ok but you need to be careful to get it straight or else you could damage the frame. The last option is the hammer and a block of wood (I often do this myself) this is not recommended as it is most likely to damage stuff. If you must do it then line everything up properly, put a block of wood on the headset to protect it and then gently knock it with a hammer (should not take too much force). If you are careful and you know what to do you can use any method safely but I would still recommend getting it done properly.

I have been using the TAYA chrome bmx chain on all of my bikes for the past year or two now. I am yet to snap one (though I have snapped a couple of half links and snap links in them). The best bit is they are only £8 from helfrauds. I will never change to another chain, I have snapped so many other chains most of which last me less than 3 months and it is never the links seperating always snapping. I put total confidence in the TAYA one and for that I think it is worth a trip to halfords.

I have run mine like that for the past year, works fine. It even says that you can do it in the manual.

Not even worth bothering ali. It is possible to modify them but that is a lot of work and needs to be done properly. Just stick with a decent freewheel or get a king/profile if you really want a driver. Plus there are a couple of decent bmx hubs out there.

It's been done on the odd big hit MTB as a way of giving more clearance for both mud and to allow the wheel to come up further. Apart from that I can really see no point in it, It would make spins easier but then again so would runnign both wheels 24 and that does not feel/look gay. Having a 26 inch front wheel and 24 inch rear is not really going to benefit you for trials, it comes more to the geometry of the bike and the way you ride. If you cant handle both wheels 26" go to 24 on both, or even mod. Why Mix and Match!?

As said you have to drop the front end more on landing than you normally would and keep the chain tension up

What riding is there at spitalfeilds?

Depends how hung over I am from the party on saturday but should be in

Getting better man. You would improve quick if you came out with some better riders (i.e. come to london for a ride lol). good work anyway man

I am basing my assumptions on the bike world as well, 1020 is weaker as you said but that just means thicker tube walls are required, I am not looking for someone to say 'this is the tube to use' I am justing looking fr some advice about where to start with tube wall thicknesses

Thank you, you have just rephrased my question in the form on an answer and given no information to help. I know that it is up to me what properties the frame requires, but i thought it would be quite obvious that like a bike frame a rickshaw needs both strength and stiffness, what I was asking was if anyone could give me a starting point for what tube wall thickness and diameter i should be looking at

I am designing a rickshaw/pedicab for a friend of mine to have constructed. I am a little stuck on frame material. I am obviously limited to 1020 or 4130 but I am not sure which would be better suited. Also most rickshaws use square rather than round tubes which I am a little cautious about. Finally I dont know what tube diameter or wall thickness to use. The max load will be about 400kg. If anyone Knows anything that may help please let me know. thanks