sstein

That is what i meant about style of riding. If you want something to ride a bit like an mtb street bike but still allow you to learn trials 1035mm wb is pretty spot on. If you want to do more static stuff but still be able to ride a bit streety 1065 is good, though i also found that 1085 worked quite well for me (probably just me though)

While that may be true a mtb will undoubtedly have a higher front end which makes it easier for instance i have a mtb with the same wb as my trials bike but a longer rear end and lower bb but a much higher front and i can 180 that up things which i struggle with on my trials bike (despite it also being a lot lighter). although i can manual my trials bike easier and can also 3 it which I cant do on the mtb (although once again i stuggle to gain height and distance on these). I would recommend the a marino in hex geo though really it is up to you.

Get a marino with Hex geo. though saying this it depends on your style, if you are fast and flowly and like to spin a lot get a marino or a hex. if you want a bike that you can ride proper trials on while retaining the ability to manual and hop easily (not to mention the occasional spin) then get the because or the rockman. I ride a short echo control which is a pretty similar geo and have a proper street (non trials) bike as well. I can spin the echo fine but nothing like I can with a proper street bike because 1065 is still a bit long though it does mean I can still do static stuff and don't feel too cramped. also how tall are you?

There are some old school revell street trials frames on ebay for like £40 posted. They are little heavy cause they are steel and they are disc only, plus the rear end is a little long. However they seem to have character are really short and seem quite streety plus I feel that steel is the only way to go for street, in fact I just got one my self.

It is in no way hard to make a 16t sprocket for a stock or for that matter a 16t freewheel, besides the standard gearing is 22:18 or 18:15. As for a 12t freewheel for a mod, yes it is almost impossible to make a decent 12t freewheel but if you use a driver there is no problem at all in fact they go all the way down to 8t. The idea is not to make the ratios better but to allow you to have more clearance, this used to be more important when the technology in bikes was not so advanced already. These days the benefits are said to be a more even weight distribution and faster pickup (because of the ratio difference each engagement up front should be faster than each at the rear, though i fail to see either of these things actually making any difference).

i will most probably come out

that is a weird geo

does anyone know the geo of a revell stock trials frame?

sounds like air in the system.

There are a couple of riders in London (yours truly included) but mostly a bit further north. If you come closer to central there are plenty of guys to ride with. Even if you only come up to bermondsey or so

I have to say that the TNNs are pretty insane, but so are phat pads and in y opinion the Rock Blues are as good as the phat pads and have a much, much longer wear life

Close but it is to do with sword fighting on horseback not jousting that way if you had a dispute with someone on the road you could defend yourself and I doubt that many people carried a lance around with them

This is a thought but if you get used to a bike you will still be able to do it it will just be harder

Speak for yourself

you are wrong. The law in this country as it currently stands is that for a normal bicycle setup (two wheels with pneumatic tyres, etc..) there must be at least two independent braking systems neither of which may rely on a braking block being applied directly to the tyre. So say for example you have a fixie style bike and you run it freewheel then you need to standard brakes but if you actually run it fixed the chain tension actually counts as a brake and you require only one conventional brake system also before I forget, the reason we run the brakes on the side we do is that...we invented the bike so it is are choice!

I find that throwing your weight back is not as important as how you use your legs obviously they both play a part though. As you throw your weight back bend your knees a little and as the front leaves the ground kick you legs out to push the back wheel through and under the front as if you are trying to loop out.

you riding sunday?

Why do you want such a high bb? that is crazy high for stock the reason you will struggle to find short frames with a higher bb is that they are more geared towards streetier riding rather than tgs and too high a bb makes manuals and spins really hard. why not get a marino?

Coarse is standard. If you go into a bike shop you dont tell them that you want an m6 with coarse threads to fit your disc brake mount you just say you need an m6 bolt.

It is a standard M10 bolt. I a sure it easy enough to just google it if you dont know

slipped while riding y street bike outside southwark cathedral over the summer, ploughed into a wall and broke my hand and possibly some ribs

Oh, cheers man> i have been playing around for days trying to work out what is wrong

The videos posted on the forum dont seem to work for me for some reason, I have tried both on opera and on firefox and nothing. I have the latest version of flash. anyone have any ideas?

Come on people

You also dont see many BMXs made out of anything apart from steel though for that matter. I agree that most people will notice very difference between steel and ally for a trials frame and that once again it does make a huge difference how the frame is designed but personally I do notice a difference between steel and ally frames, not so much from a comfort point of view but a confidence point of view. The more forgiving feel of steel frames makes me feel less like my frame is about to snap if something is not pulled off perfectly (though that mat just be me)