sstein

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-Mini-Chain-Brute/dp/B000OYHCHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1AR4OT8J5BGTS&keywords=park+tool+chain+tool&qid=1651942908&sprefix=park+tool+ch%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-5 Best chain tool around

For future reference this a push bike not motorbike forum. Your problem is however either an airleak (probably from an incorrectly fitted cable) or more likely you have over-tensioned the cable which is pulling you slide up and (the same as if you were opening the throttle. Check the cable end is correctly in the slide, check the noodle is correctly fitted with appropriate locking nut. Adjust the barrel adjuster so your throttle has a little freeplay and make sure your idle screw is correctly set.

Here is a suggestion. Go to any bike shop (including Hellfrauds), ask for one the scrapped frames (there will usually be a couple sitting in the metal bins). cut the head tube and bb off. Weld into your new frame.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/691675010843613/?fref=ts I am from watford so if you want to ride their let me know

disc bolts, stem and brakes will need a much smaller torque wrench than the bigger parts. To be honest after having spent 5 years as a mechanic I only ever use a torque wrench on carbon parts or hollowtech cranks and I have never had a problem doing that.

the disc brake cleaner for cars and motorbikes is exactly the same as the bike stuff!

The stock setup may make it a little harder to manual but once you have manuals dialled that should not really cause any problems. Just keep practicing

16/13 will be roughly the same as 18/15. 16/12 will be a bit harder which is better for street riding. Standard ration for stock is usually around 1.2. I have ridden as hard as 1.5 for streetier stuff without issues.

There are 2 ways to do a 3 tap. First is to go as if you were trying a 3 and just put your rear wheel down a bit early, for that you need to be able to get way past the 180 point. The other is to 180 to back wheel and just keep the rotation going either stationary or by hopping. If you want to do the hop method use your brake and get the rear down hard, when you feel like you are about to fall hop back and look over your shoulder, should spin you the other 180. For the other methods keep off the brakes and use pedal pressure to keep the front up. Mainly just keep trying. I would say that learning to 3 tap does not make learning a proper 360 easier, in fact I found that years of doing taps meant I had to relearn my technique for straight 3s (still don't always get them). I would say just find a good transition fly out and commit to the spin, the biggest problem normally is people not fully committing.

Yeah but that was before it was re-welded and heat-treated. It should be a lot stronger now.

I have used an octane one void (which i welded v-mounts on) and an ns suburban, both are good for street and I can do trials on them but they are not nearly as good as an actual trials bike

was talking to a bmxer that has one the other day, he said it was great and had only skipped a few times in almost a year. However trials use is different and I do have to admit they sound mangy!

used it for about 6 months before i changed back to v brakes. worked very well and the brake still works fine on the initial bleed after a year sitting in the garage

Broke my old one which was a shame cause it was awesome. Got a pair of the new ones and had to change them cause they were sh*t!

any dirt jump forks with an air top up system would work. You might want to lower them to around 60mm though. Also you should know that they would still feel like crap for any proper trials