spartan

yo the yellow ones should be the Heatsink Asians and the white ones should be Heatsink M&Ms

ok i have weighed my options and ordered a green 08 dengura with coust green pads. I just need to change, im so frustrated with my brakes right now i just dont care. Like i realise that vees dont have tones of bit but im not sure were you guys are getting that they hold really well. Ive never had my brakes hold well at all. Even when i had rock blues and a mega grind they would still slip, i could be the adapters though. W/e im done with vees, thanks for the help though.

geo is all preferance man, i love my czar but hate my friends meta which is virtually the same geo. Ive never heard anything bad about the ivan though, good luck.

ok i just went out for about 30 minutes and there was zero perceptible difference. Both pads hit the rim perfectly square right in the middle, the pads are sanded and the rim freshly ground just like 3 hours ago. I dont know if there is supposed to be some secret to perfect brakes but if there is i just dont have it. Again tonnes of bite and power going backwards but only a bit of power forwards and no bit whatsoever, like literally none at all. HELP!!

Ok i heard something about bedding in, i know you need to do this with discs but how long should it take for a vee. I just put a nice sharp grind on and sanded the pads so there was no black on the bottom. Im just wondering like am i looking at an hour or so of riding (trials) or a week or what, when should i expect peak performance?

Ok so what im getting is to regrind my rim pretty harsh and set up the pads again then ride it for a while until it beds in. The trouble i have is they used to have lots of bite, but just one day they go all quiet and had zero bit whatsoever, like literally none. I didnt change anything at all, it just sat in my garage and changed. I use a dangerboy lever so i dont have leverage adjust so theres no real way to make up for the lack of leverage. Ill sand my pads down a little and grind my rim again and stop bitching about if for a few rides and see if that helps, Thanks guys, Ian

Its just that like when i had my ultimates and heatsink pads at the start they were awsome, lots of power and great grab. But like after a couple of weeks they just like got all quiet and lost their bite and some of the hold. I reground my rim and sanded the pads but there was the same problem. Im just getting frustrated with my set up, the adapters mean that i cant set the pads low in the rails to get lots of leverage and they always need to be fiddled with. Ill ride it one day and love them then the next it feels completely different. Also when i try to go high unless i land perfectly ontop of the obstacle the brakes just slide out. I sharp grind and lots of tar and my brakes still slip before my bald 909 slides out. I just want to never have to touch my brakes again.

I have a set of avid ultimates with zhi adapters and heatsink red pads. But i just can seem to get the brakes how i want them. Like for them to feel good i get no power and when i set them up for power they feel like garbage. I want to buy the new Echo ST rim brakes but im just wondering if they are solid or not like do they have leaks or anything (if they are even out yet) and i want to make a billion % sure im making the right choice. Can i set up the echos to feel like my vee brake (ie solid but engaging closish to the bars) and still get lots of power out of them. I have a czar 26 with a built in booster, should i run a 4 bolt aswell or will i be ok. Also im thinking of getting the coust pads with them, would these be good for a fresh light grind too worn out grind or should i just get another set of heatsink reds??. Thanks and sorry to have to bring this up again i just want to make extra sure, Ian

Man, that was freakin ridiculous. So big and so stylish. Man TRA i heard that you had lost interest in trials and i was crushed man, you fully got me into the sport, now i dont know what happened with Koxx that made you leave but damn i think your better for it, you seem so much more comfy on the Ozonys. And hey if i get a scholarship im going to buy whatever your riding

Proper riders tuck because it allows them to get the rear wheel higher without having your body all the way up. Faggoty TGS riders who wear jeans too tight for my pencil tuck because they think it looks cool. If your going real high sucking the bike up under you helps get the rear wheel on the ledge, but if you just tuck because your trying to look cool... your not!

naw man ENO is the way to go. Ive had mine for a year now and its really nice, skipped only a handful of times. I just rebuilt it but unfortunately i accidentally squirted some SA80 on it thinking it was oil. W/E it works really really nice, hasnt skipped once since the rebuild and is nice and quiet.

Yo man you can die from tapping, damn. I mean like if you tap your head against a speeding buzzsaw or something but..... Im sorry how man, im soooo curious. Ian PS: not trying to diminish his sacrifice to the sport just saying like i thought trials was prety safe soooo....?

Man what is the music in that first vid. I love videos with heavy music man. Keep up the good work man, watching people start out is so much fun, if just a little painful lols. Cheers and keep with it, Ian

Yeah man, me. Like i find that when i practice trials i dont get better at like street or DH but it makes learning them like way easier. It took my bro like almost a year to be able to 180 then half-cab like everytime. I tried it a few times then realised its the same as when you need to roll back to get space for a pedal up. Like i prefer trials but when i go jumping or Dhing im not as good as the honchos but i have a blast and learn thing real quick.

Yeah but that said snail cams and good bolts will lock you chain tight with no hassle whatsoever. I spend way more time adjusting my echo tensions then i do my snail cams on my monty. Horizontal dropouts on a stock frame would be nice, just to have the option you know, this whole modstock thing is f**king stupid IMO, Ian

naw i took them out one at a time so theres no way, is there and up and down orientation though.

I decided that as im going to sell it soon that i would rebuild my eno freewheel. So i took it all apart and cleaned all the pawls and the orings and bearings. Then i went to lube it up with some oil, and my dad insisted on some sa40. I put it all back together and now it feels alot stiff then before. Like when i flicked it forward it used to keep going like half a rotation, now it stops almost immediately. Im wondering what could have caused this and if its a big deal or no. Thanks Ian

yeah i have a really similar problem, ive tried going right to the edge with just a tiny pedal kick but dont get any distance. Any help is much appreciated!!

yo dude man that shit is sick. Imagine that like a hottie on the street dropped her coat or something. Instead of walking over and picking it up you could like backflip at full speed then double full full into a swooping coat grab then dismount with a reverse donkey kick into the contraceptive sponges... Sry watching MXC, Either way thats pretty cool man, Ian

My fav is gotta be james bartons hydroxx video pats vid on vimeo http://www.vimeo.com/1039217 well ill watch pretty much anything thats smooth and has heavy music.

yo man i followed it to a tee. I took and old axel and put it through the crank and the tool and tightened them together hard with 2 bolts, then in a vice and leverage bar. The thing just shifted and stripped it out.

Is this any better lols, a quad bacon cheese from harveys lols!! And yeah Muel, how hard is it to strip the freewheel down, i dont want to have to mess around with like springs and bearings and stuff that i can loose or not put back together right if i can avoid it. Thanks though, i think ill end up buying a monty freewheel though, just makes my life easier.

Monty freewheel time me thinks

Basically my freewheel is on my crank arm which is stripped, i have the new cranks and am ready to put them one except i need to get the freehweel off. Ive tried with a wrench, a socket ive even put the tool in a vice and tried to bash it off but it just wont come. Has anyone been able to remove a freewheel thats been on a crank for a year, and yes i did use plenty of grease. Any helps is much appreciated, Ian

but see the bb is already loose so i dont want to strip out the bb by riding a stripped crank.