spartan

I have been trying to figure out what is wrong with it for the duration of my ownership. I know how to set a brake up and i know that its not contaminated and the pads should be bed in by now. The lever weeps fluid out of the top cap and out of the master cylinder so i had it rebuilt and have the same problem. I cannot store my bike upside down as when i come back in the morning there will be a small puddle of fluid sitting on the ground. Ive just gotten to the point where im fed up with it. Brakes and me dont seem to get along, ive been through 3 different set ups and almost 10 pairs of pads out back and have just found a pair that seem to work for me so now i want to get the front to be somewhere close. It just really feels like not having a decent front brake is holding me back. There are a number to techniques that i just dont bother with anymore because i know ill just get frustrated. As for the front vee my fork has not vee mounts on it and i would prefer to stay with a disc anyways. What im hearing is a bb7 with linear cables, would the ultimate levers be of any value over the sd7 ones or are they just lighter?? Cheers, Ian

So far i have been through 3 different front discs and i cant seem to find one thats actually decent. In the past ive had a hayes 9 and an avid juicy 7 both on 8 inch and im currently running a monty hope mono trial on a 6" g2 and to be honest im very very dissapointed. I can feel the brake almost slipping just rocking, gaps and ups to the front wheel mayaswell just be brakeless. I have month old pads, a new bleed a new rotor (installed with gloves) ive never touched the rotor and keep my bike in a very very clean garage so i dont think its contaminated. I think a complete rebuild of the brake might work but i dont want to spend that money then find out i need a new one anyways. So ive narrowed it down to 3 different brakes to try. Avid bb7 with an 8 inch rotor A new hope mono trial would like to keep a 6 inch Ive hear good things about the magura gustav too but never actually tried one. Any suggestions would be awsome. I dont care about weight or modulation i just want something that will lock. Cheers, Ian

Hey man, you stoked to get those fifteens pounding or what?? As for your question, if you have two subs that both run at 1200 watts peak and 600 rms at 2 ohms then you have a combined load of 2400 watts. A suitable amp should provide at least 100 watts more power then the combined peak of the subs so that you can get maximum performance out of the woofers without running he risk of having your amp start to clip. I am running 2 12" infinity kappa perfect series woofers in my mustang. They have a 1000 watt rms and a 2450 peak. This means a combined load of 4900 watts (1 ohm). As it stands right now they are rather underpowered with my Bose 3500 Class D. Keep in mind there is nothing wrong with running a woofer on an amp that is below the rms of the sub, this will not hurt the woofer or the amp so long as your not an idiot with the volume. If you want to see pictures or specs on my system you can check out my profile on allfordmustangs (i have the same user name there as i do here). Im using a 1200 watt 4 channel mtx T4004 to run 4 infinity kappa 5x7 components along with the kappa perfect subs. A good amp for your system would probably be one of the newer exile amps, or maybe two of the alpine MRP1000s although matching the levels on two amps is tricky if your not a pro. Pretty much you want to look for an amp that is either a mono class D (1 channel) or a multi channel (2 or 4) that is bridgeable (channels can be combined into one output). When i just started I used a 4 channel amp and bridge 2 channels for my subs and ran my other four speakers off the other 2 channels, I had to forgo fore/aft adjustability but it was a worthy sacrafice. I hope this helps, If you have any more questions post em up. Cheers, Ian

thanks for the help guys. Ill throw some anti seize on there and see what happens. Would you recomend just regular car disc brake cleaner or is there special stuff for bikes. It could be my setup though im not sure. I had to put a washer between the for and the hub on the disc side to stop the caliper from rubbing on the spokes. Plus im not sure if the pistons are retracting all the way there is about a millimeter or so of each piston sticking out. Is it rebuild time then or should i just adjust my setup???

Hey guys its been a while since ive posted anything here but tryin to get back into it soo here goes. Ive got one of the monty hope brakes and for some reason after the pads and rotor get a little warm it squeals really loudly whenever im not on the brakes. Im just wondering how to get ride of the squeal because its really really annoying and a bit demoralizing if you know what i mean. This seems to be the last in a seemingly endless series of problems so some help would really be appreciated. Thanks, Ian

ive faced the mounts more than once on this fork and from what i see the pads hit the rotor square and at the same time. Im pretty sure they are bedded in, i usually ride for a day then dont ride for like a week or more so maybe their just glazed. Ive tried the whole mud on the rotor thing too and all that did was make the brake howl annoyingly.

Ive had this monty version of the hope trial brake for about a year now and for some reason it is remarkably terrible. Ive put new pads in and cleaned and sanded the rotor, the pads have been on for maybe 6-7 rides but i only get out like once a week or so. I rebuilt the brake last year with new seals and have it bled nicely. The lever feels good so i dont think its air in the lines. I had to put a shim in between the dropout on the evolve fork and my echo front hub so that the brake wont rub the spokes but i shimmed out the rotor aswell and the gap on each side looks pretty even. There is little to no dragging but i have no bite or hold from the brake. Even a simple endo requires leaning as far forward as i can and even at that i still roll for a good 4-5 feet before the brake actually locks up. I have a 26" front wheel and am using a 6" g2 clean-sweep rotor. Help please this is really starting to demotivate me. Thanks, Ian

Awsome vid! I remember seeing it somewhere else though. I especially liked the jack-off air lol.

I find his brakeless skill to be offensive. How is he better then me in everyway with no brakes?

you dude thats deffinately benito. Im gonna go out on a limb but im not sure too many people will disagree with me that hes pretty much the best there is.

you when you turn the lever upsidedown, or sideways or anything other then perfectly flat then the lever will pull all the way to the bar without anything happening, does it with brand new brakes too. I have had nothing but horrible experiences with avid, mine is on the front of my brothers mod bike with every single bolt stripped out and notches cut in them, and when u up the brake there is this horrible squeak as the brake does nothing. A rebleed might help but seriously a new brake should be top priority. Ian

LOL, ohh god thats horrible. I have noticed a trend towards the mad blowjob faces among most trials riders. I have a couple at home ill post up in a while.

well since the dude at trialsin USA is a mad baller i no longer need to worry bout bleeding cuz im getting the plazmatic hydro-whatever. Now i just need to find pads that dont like bollocks (did i use that right??). Im thinking either some red heatsinks or if i could get my hands on them, phatpads. does anyone know who sells them and how much it would cost to ship them to Canada.

tap, gap, sidehop, up to front wheel, anything on the front whee, two wheel balance, anything involving a wedge, anything involving a handrail, do things first try, actually learn things... Ive been riding for 3 years and a 35" tap is still a huge achievement. I learn things really slowly and get frustrated easily so its kind of an annoying cycle.