WIGAN

erm how much use have they had??, if ther a year old and are used like evryday probably best to get new ones yeah but anyway, take them off and greese the threads up then put them back on if that dont stop it its probably your cranks or bb just take the whole drivetrain off and give it a good clean and grese it up should be fine

to be honest mate i thought that was a propper good effort loads of power and potential there, ok you do look stiff on the bike but thats only to be expexted from begginer stick at it dude

if its an isis bb it should just slide off pretty easy if not a bash with a soft mallet will do but if its square your gunna have more trouble although it will come off with a good beating its best to get a tool.

just spent £110 on my pile and my pro2 threads have stripped so i cant even ride lol failure and im back down to the premembzzz even better

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....p;#entry2019758

you dont have to do any of this crap the harder you squeez a grip to pull it off the more it sticks itself to the bar just get your finger tips behind the grip and it just pulls off, easy

if you dont run a bash ring the spacer goes where the bash would be so no threads are exposed to any damage

just to clear one thing up too, 135 and 116 are the hub spacing I.E width mods usually have 116mm and stocks 135 a modstock is just a 26'' with a 116 spacing

Those hubs look really good and knowing there from hope means your gunna get a good warranty service to boot, as for the full wheel thing thats a bad idea IMO its better just too sell them as single parts as people arn't going to want to pay for a full wheel when all they need is a hub or a rim!

firstly, move the lever so that there is room for one finger on the lever secondly, uno the 4 mm bolts on the rear brake and set it up closer to the rim for a harder feeling brake make sure the tpa (red wheel on the lever) is wound all the way in and if its still too soft you can wind this out slightly, set the brake up so its nice and square to the rim and all of the pad is touching the rim when the lever is pulled as for a front brake i'd suggest a vee but thats just me you can use a disk too if you wish avid bb7's are really good cheap and easy to maintain, if your getting a vee the main differences are they hold a lot better, easier to set up, cheaper, and they wont leak or burst like maguras as for performance its all in the pads you use and how well its set up have a look on the heatsink website or on tarty theres a range of vee pads on either of those

woohoo got my job back wich means i should be up for this ladies hope the weathe holds up now.

VERY good hubs for the money they last absolutley ages, had my set on my mod that were 2 years old when i bought them, i had them for 3 years and now another lads got them and there still going.

thread a bolt in the top of it leave the amount you want to move it down sticking out of the forks and tap it down.

you serious hammer it.

lmao your one to talk your the worst in the world for it.

fukin jesus hes good on that stock never even seen that vid, propper smart style looks like a mini damon

really?, this didnt work for me i had to just sand it off cos i thought anodising bonds it to the metal ?

http://www.bmx-forum.co.uk/forum/

lmao plimmies mayaswell ride in socks and save weight

WHAT THE f**k

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html thats the guide i learned with really detailed explainations and easy to understand diagrams its ace, built loads of wheels lookin at that its easy once you know how.

and sum hubs that wern't from halfords

took my little brother trikky treatin cos im skint lmao nice life got a massife haul though feel sick now

any avid vee with good pads and a good setup will bite and hold like a bitch weather or not ultimates are any better i dont know iv'e never owned one. but, my 20 quid vee with inspired pads on smooth is epic.