Rob Leech

Yezzer You representing tommorow? PS- sorry to the fella that started this, i love steel personally

I just dont want you to waste the time trying it personally. You've only just got a new bike and your riding alot more, just stick with the limey for a while, should be the sort of frame that will suit you. And you can have a play on the control tommorow, see how that is. Josh.

And get him to make you some forks with 90mm axle offset , If he makes forks .

Just no, lol, most of the best ideas are good ideas, the fooking stupid ideas you see and think, what is the point in this??? Exactly, over 10 trials frames have only grown in wheelbase by 40-50mm, tops, its bigger than a finger nail, but not a hand. You said earlier you'd like an extra inch or 2 cockpit room, 1250 would give you an extra 6-7. Think about your ideas, look at what will acctually come out at the end and whether the result is what your after before you go blurting them out. Josh.

I understand that, and thats fair enough, what i've been trying to get through is that a 1250 wheelbase wont suit you, it's just a stupid idea. Mayby 1120 or something in that area, but 1250? Thats just takin the piss. Why not get a tape out and look at the difference between your limey and a frame with a 1250 wb, you might see the problem there then. Josh.

and a modern frames wheelbase has increased by how much? 40mm?

Alright chris, so you dont think that anyone who is over 6 4 has tried this before? Look at the likes of TRA and tunnicliffe, both tall riders getting on quite well with normal frames and im sure a few more people could name alot more riders that are over 6' that get on just fine. I think that there are quite a few riders who could say that. Why not just try a higher bar and stem? Just because your tall dosent mean you have to ride a fooking barge. Josh.

You're making it sound like your about 8 ft tall with shoulders as wide as an elephant chris . Considering that most people can feel a large difference by increasing 20-30 mm in wheel base, putting on another 160mm to what is now the sort of standard WB would, to put it rather bluntly, fook it oop a lot. I'd have a proper think before wasting money, and marinos time, on a frame like that. Josh.

How do all, would some one be able to bring a chain splitter with them tommorow? May or may not need it, depends if flipp can find his . Cheers all, Josh.

Im sure mythbusters busted this one???????

How do, put a toilet roll around the crank arm when its loose and knock it off with a hammer, wont damage the arm then. Out of interest, what cranks are they? Sorry if i missed this already. This happened to my echo SL's, put a spacer behind and havent had to look at them since . Cheers, Josh.

This man speaks the truth. We'll get it sorted though. No real need for U6/T6, unless you were intending on normalising and re-hardening, but the frame would have to be normalised before any welding takes place. Plus, its not as easy to do as it sounds . To get past the overall softening of the area i normally put the frame straight into sand when i've finished welding, this allows the frame to cool slowly, increasing the chances of it having some hardness in the area . Think im going to have to plate it, but i wont really know until the frames here. Rab, will pop you a text later on chap . Josh.

How do chap, if you're only looking to have a couple of months out of it, i'll give it a go if your willing to pay postage? But dont expect it to last much longer than that, its quite a large crack in very much the wrong place I train and re-certificate welders for a living and have alot of experience in ally TIG. Pop me a pm if your interested pal and we'll have a chat about it . Cheers, Josh.

How do all, think a few from leicester are coming across to loughborough this saturday, just wondering if anyone else was interested? Station at 11ish/KFC at half past? Cheers, Josh.

if its still built up, mark out your centers properly, center punch em, stick the hub axle in a vice, hold onto the rim and use a hand/pistol drill to drill em. shudn't be much need for a pilot hole on these as you wont go above 6mm anyway (or shudnt do ), id personally go straight through with a 5mm, would take plenty of material off and would look nice if you managed to put a slight (6-7mm) countersink on the outside. No need for a pillar drill for the insides, might even be a problem finding one you'd even fit the rim in that way, know mine wouldnt go that high . Josh. EDIT- Why not take the rim tape out? would make things easier for you

how come mr koekoek (?) has a magura on his?????

how do all, me, flipp and ben should be there , will see you's in the morn. Josh.

why not just try giving it a good bleed? could well be the reason you havent got any hold . Cheers, Josh.

Not hard to get the insert square pal, just make it a push-in fit and 9 times out of 10, it sets itself, if not, a square and flat plate do the job just fine. Try fitting a set of forks into a lathe matey, dosent work, make the insert first, chamfer the edges, push it in, weld it up, clean it up, job done. Just thought also, if your working with trialtech forks, why not just make the insert with the same thread as the fork? Will tighten up as you tighten the headset, no welding involved, sorted. Josh. EDIT- oh, and if you weld it on the piss, you're a dumbass anyways, not difficult to see a bit of bar on the piss.

Could just turn it down before you weld it . Have done a few of these recently and did exactly the same as lado above said, im sure if you took em round to a local engineering firm they'd be more than happy to help you . Cheers, Josh.

I wouldn't like the thought of riding a 200kg bike, lol, trying to throw something around thats near enough 3 times your own weight aint gona be easy . Josh.

Lets say 11:30-12 at KFC?

106.34 England

Got a few coming up from Leicester hopefully next Sunday, wondered if anyone else was interested? Cheers all, Josh.

mite be comin down with a few of the loughborough lot, will have to see . Cheers, Josh.