edmondraptor

Slow mo with fish eye lens makes everything look gangsta!

hahaha flailing maniac style is the next big thing dontcha know. No excuse for the wheel though, surprised it lasted the day after that! Some really good riding was happening yesterday....mega gaps jeezo

"Everyone on the ride will know what this photo means " I can only imagine this means everyone knows I'm going to do something totally sweet... Oh and this morning all parts of me hurt. It's like I've been sexually assaulted by trials.

Ha I guess this is the filming you were talking about the other day. Nice video, I recognise that up onto the bench!

Is the trials stuff at Cambu near the dirt jumps or somewhere else? I don't remember anything from when I was there on bikes with seats. I might come to wherever people are riding on sunday if that's ok, Well, if my crap wrist is better by then anyway.

Yeah to be fair I could buy two spare Bases for the price of a Revell just now. It's the newer Base I have now though I think, just got it before christmas, the £99 one. On another note, when out riding today my freehub began to be less than free, and when I took it apart now I saw that two of the bearings have disintegrated, and one of the pawl springs has snapped! Crap crap crap! Damn Pro2 Trials, only had it a few months, less even. I am discovering that trials is tough on your bike and parts.... Edit: those megamos look great but they'll probably cost a shedload being so rare...anyone got one though?

Would it make it harder to get on/stay on the back wheel? I can't see it as being totally awful as some pro guy uses it according to tarty. That norco Moment or the new Manifesto looks sweet but seems to only be available in Canada

They fit on, but you'll most likely find that they hit the chain stays because they are designed to sit much further out than the ISIS versions due to the external BB cups. That said, I have a drive side Truvativ Hussefelt ISIS, but a left hand side Hussefelt Howitzer with a wee spacer behind the crank to clear the frame. It's a really close fit, like 3 mm from rubbing the chainstay, but I guess it depends on your bike and BB spindle length. Wouldn't really count on it working though, especially as the inner chainring would probably hit the frame that close in, and chainline issues.

After noticing small cracks starting to form on the seat stay/seat tube joins on my ally TA26 frame, I'm thinking maybe when it's completely knackered I'll go for a steel frame like the Revell Stock or something like that. I'm under the impression that steel flexes more than aluminium so it cracks less readily and isn't so badly damaged by dents and the like, but is the added flexyness bad for trials, and will it really be more resistant to cracking? What other companies make a steel trials frame that doesn't cost a ton? A seat would be pretty awesome but not a must. Also on the geo of the Revell : - Reach of 25.1" (from centre of BB shell to centre top of head tube). - Chainstay length adjustable from 390mm to 410mm, by using the integrated chain tugs/mech hanger included with the frame. If using a rear disc brake, rear end length is set at 400mm. - Wheelbase ranging from 1015mm to 1035mm due to the horizontal dropouts (measured with Echo Urban forks).) I've read some people saying that it's mega short compared to other frames (a full two inches shorter reach than even my Base, but 10 mm longer stays) But what would this mean in real life terms of bike handling? I've really not ridden any other trials bikes apart from my own so I dont know the advantages of long/short whatever, but I run a pretty short (70 mm) stem and flat bars and would aspire to a Chris Akrigg-y style of riding (If I was a lot better anyway). Any opinions on it? Would really apreciate anyone's input since I'll need a new frame soon when I snap the back end off this one.

My guess is you have a star nut designed for one inch diameter steerer tubes (used on some road bikes and old mountain bikes). You'll need to get one made for an inch and eighth headtube and you should be sorted.

Haha two bikes got built up over a week and cleanliness was forgotten, it's cleared up now.

...It turned orange! I theorize that with this new paint job, I'll be able to hop 100% higher and gap 100% further than with the original silver finish. And yeah it really needs a new back tyre.

Really nice! Clean lines and I'm a sucker for orange bikes, I think I know what colour my bike will be turning soon...

Haha I got the vibe that this was Glasgow, even though I didn't recognise any of the spots until the last couple of pics. There must be an atmosphere about the place

A few guys on here have Bases. I've had one for a few months now, and I find it great for myself being used to proper mountain bikes since it's got a saddle and not a teeny weeny frame (still plently of standover though). I like it more than my BMX for street nowadays. The only thing is you'll really need a brake booster 'cos the frame flexes a bit without one. Short chainstays and probably about a medium length front end make it bunny hop nicely but it's nice and stable on the back wheel, Also cheap as chips just now so just buy one! As a note there's a few pictures of peoples snapped TA26's, but I'm pretty sure that only happens when people havent bothered to run a seat since it puts too much stress on the seat tube/seat stay welds when the seat tube flexes slightly without a post in it.

I've got an older LX v-brake with the parralellogram doodad on the back just now. I had Rock V pads on a smooth rim (rubbish), then used tar (better but stopped working if the rim got a drop of water on it), and just the other day I put whats probably a medium grind on the rim. After the first ride with a grind the brake works the best it has so far, but all I can think is it would work even better with hydraulic fluid moving the pads instead of a flexy cable. What about those compressionless BMX cables? Do they make a big difference?

Yeah if I get a magura (probably wait for the better weather) I'll get the EVOII ones, they look better than the old ones that push on the frame. Cheers for the replies at this time of night.

Damn, I ride in that square and I've never even looked at that gap, not that I could do it. Because its mental. Its a good spot though I'd forgotten about it, might go for a bit on my day off.

Sorry to ask the forum to do work for me, but since I dont know exactly what it is I'm looking for I need someone to confirm: Exactly what do I need to make a rear magura fit a set of rear v-brake mounts? It would be great if I could get links for where to buy them as well. I've tried googling but I couldn't get a definite idea. Thanks!

I've seen some people say bad things about the '06 pro2s, do you think it would be a bad idea to get one of the cheap ones that are on tartybikes at the moment? Even with the warranty I'd rather have a hub that doesn't break.

If you got the bike from a bike shop who built it for you the left hand crank should be really tight on the bottom bracket. If it came in a box it definitely needs tightened. Check it either way, as that's the first thing I would think it to be. If it still creaks after that, unscrew the pedals from the crank arms using a pedal spanner or a thin 15 mm spanner if it fits (Left pedal has a left hand thread remember. Both pedals unscrew towards the back of the bike.), grease the threads, and screw them back in. I think that should sort it!

Ah crap I would have gone to Edinburgh if I saw this earlier, too late now I guess. Would have been good to ride with people.