cwbashaw

I've been using some green grease that you use for boat trailer wheel bearings. It's cheap and it's made for boat trailers so it doesn't thin out when it gets wet. As far as I can tell it looks just like the phil wood grease and works just as good. the worst grease I have ever tried was one I found in a hardware store for greasing the tracks on garage doors.

I would go with horizontal drops, slipping in the dropouts doesn't seem to be an issue if you have good tensioners. The only downside for me on my mod is I have to readjust my brake pads and wheel when a new chain stretches.

I switched to using road bike bar tape. So far it's the best thing I've found. It's comfortable, more durable than foam, and you can probably get leftover pieces at most bike shops for free (that's how I got mine) just ask them to save you some if they don't have any laying around. Oh yeah they never slip like rubber grips either.

Matt competed in Sport class at the Belle Isl :bow: e comp in Richmand VA a few weeks ago and set a goal to complete an entire comp and complete at leas one section without a five. Results..... Sport: 1. Chris Slydel - 13 - 4 cleans 2. Angie Maynard - 36 - 1 clean 3. Hinmaton Hisler - 40 4. David A. - 42 5. Jim V. - 52 6. Matt Gillman - 58 Good job Matt keep it up.

I ride with Matt and when I tell people his story they always think he just rides up curbs at the most. He's a better rider than me most of the time. When we go from spot to spot he puts his hand on someones shoulder and walks. We have to point out curbs to him. It's still amazing to me how he can do this stuff. Most sighted riders struggle to be as good as him at trials.

I posted something similar a few days ago on OTN I was told 2 things... 1. "Jump up! There's a fundamental change that has to happen in your technique. Generally when you start pedal kicking you rely heavily on the pedal kick itself. Unfortunately, as you have found out, on very narrow obstacles that just won't work. Try to use your body more. Preload your body/tire and think about jumping up almost more than jumping forward and just give a short stab at the pedals." 2. "Your biggest problem is probably letting the brake off too early. Try to consciously delay letting the brake off until after your comfort point." I'm still working at it so I'm no pro, but letting the brake off a little later, and kicking just as hard, but with a shorter stroke has helped the most. I've been practicing this on a small concrete parking bumpers, and working on increasing the distance. Im getting better but not consistent yet.

I would say it was harder going from mod to stock for me than going back to mod again. Although both have their advantages. If you do a search on MOD VS STOCK you'll find lots of arguments on this subject. The bigger wheels on a stock make it easier to roll over things. The longer wheelbase makes it easier to roll up and down obstacles, and span larger gaps. Mods are generally easier to throw around, spin, and control on the back wheel. Sidehops, and gaps seem to be the same on either. To me the biggest downside to mods is people associate mods with BMX bikes and stock with mtn bikes. I find I think I get kicked out of places more often on the mod than I did with the stock.

I have a Magura Louise sitting in my parts box. It works pretty good but I actually prefer the lever feel and adjustablilty of the Avid BB7 mechanical brake I'm using now.

go with something with a steel bead and a dual ply casing. get a slow reezay

A few weeks ago I gave away a 1988 Haro response which was one of the first production trials bikes. Believe it or not Michelin and Pirelli made trials specific tires back then. In about 1986 Ibis was making a 24" rear with a 26" front wheeled trials bike. Before that I believe it was mostly just modified bmx bikes. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c172/cwb...0stuff/Haro.gif http://www.firstflightbikes.com/1987_Ibis_Trials_Comp.htm

I just looked at the Dangerboy levers. They look really nice, but they'e way out of my budget right now.

Try building it yourself. I'm not a fan of rebuilding used rims but you can do it and it should be fine. I would never use used spokes though. Like was said before you can always break it down and take it to someone if you mess up, or lace it yourself and take it to a shop to have it properly tensioned.

read the sticky above. The guide to validation explains it all....

Thompson stems have a 40mm stack height Hope has a 42mm I would go with either one of these. Thompson has more sizes to choose from.

That's a good point I didn't think of that. I used to hate when my levers got sloppy on my XC bikes. Do you think the Shimano XT or XTR's are any better for this?

This is mostly a joke. People say it because some things are easier on Mods than stock bikes, but there are as many disadvantages to mods as benefits. A good example is in this video of a recent comp we had. http://tobe.observedtrials.net/Avaloncomp.wmv Notice that almost every stock bike made it up the quarters in the skate park and almost every mod had trouble. Other advantages of stock over mod is that stock bikes can span larger gaps, and roll over/up and down bigger stuff.

I use the trident shoes. The good: The grip is very good They are comfortable. The soles are hard enough that they don't wear out too fast. The bad: They're ugly They are hard to put on and take off. (I cut the neoprene down the front because to fix this) They smell worse than any shoe i have ever tried.

Thanks I'm glad i didn't spend the extra then. I was hoping they would perform better but it looks like you're just paying for the magnesium body and the ti hardware. Saving 10 Grams to me isn't worth paying double the price.

I'm switching from Maguras to V brakes. I'm looking at the Avid single digit 7 Levers with an ultimate brake, When I was about to order the SD7's I saw the Avid Single Digit SL levers and was wondering if they would actually perform any better or if they are just lighter weight? I really don't care about weight but if they work better I wouldn't mind spending the extra money.

I just got one of these and love it. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c172/cwb...ff/EchoLite.gif But my favorite bike ever was my old Planet X pitbull. It was more of a street bike but could do some trials stuff too. I wish i had never sold it. It had 24" king wheels, Brooklyn Shin burgers. it was hands down the best riding bike I ever built/rode. http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/attachmen...mp;d=1120351488

I agree the pads are fine but if you want different pads you should specify if you have a grind or not. For example I like the blue rock trials pads for the rear because I have a grind, but I use the green for the front because I don't have a grind on the front. I like the rock pads, but I would probably go with the Heat Sinks next if I wasn't switching to VEE's Do not get the CNC backed ones though they are known to rip the knob off the brakes see the quote below from Echo's website "Note: Never use aluminum backing brake pads for ECHO rim brake system, because the alunimun backing will cut the knob of the cylinder very easy. In such a case, warranty will be null and void."

My Echo lite

Cracked an old blue X-lite mod where the seat tube and top tube meet. They added gussets to the newer models in that spot. Snapped lots of chains. Broke lots of freewheels Snapped a handlebar once (now I replace them to be safe) Broke a few axles Snapped a fork right above the disk mount Snapped a pedal at the axle (this really hurt)

I wouldn't say I get depressed if I can't ride for a while but I seem to tolerate other BS better if I can ride. If I don't ride for a while my tolerance for BS is much lower. You will see many articles and studies out there showing that exercise increases endorphin levels which makes you happier. So there is a scientific explanation for why you are happier when you get to ride.

Get in the habit of treating everything you ride as a section. If you dab don't get off the bike and start over keep going like you are in a comp. There is almost always more than 1 way to approach an obstacle try different moves to see what moves are more stable and less likely to rusult in a dab Practice rolling up and down steep obstacles. practice pivoting on just the front then just the rear wheel. I like to use a cinder block and pivot from the ground up to the block and back down the other side then back the other way. Try to ride on uneven surfaces as much as possible like logs and rocks, if they are slightly unstable (but safe) that's even better. If you ride natural then square urban obstacles will be very easy for you. If you are comfortable doing a move to one side, then try it to the other side.