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LukasMcNeal

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Everything posted by LukasMcNeal

  1. Pretty logical really... When you first start you'll probably have a mod and won't know a) apart trials parts and how to build a bike. When you later move on to stock as most people do you will more likely want a custom spec as most complete builds won't meet your needs so you can choose. That's what I think anyway
  2. Okay then that's good! Depends on how stiff you really want it? 4 bolt boogers will eliminate pretty much most flex but then the brake will feel less bitey, they can be a bit awkward to set the brake up to. I have used a tensile 4 bolt and it was exceedingly stiff! 2 bolts are alot better IMO, they stiffen the frame up but still allow bit and are less fiddly. I have used a 2 bolt trialtech and I would highly recommend it! It really did improve my brake on my tpro alot. I would reccomend the trialtech or echo boosters
  3. Heatsink CNC Cousts Medium grind Atomz Elitis rim Echo CNC lever blade The rim is pretty bad at holding a grind but the pads performance is amazing! They are equal to my friends so called 'real' Cousts. The hold is perfect and the bite is perfect too! The noise is exactly how I wanted it, at first the noise was a high pitched grunt now it's more a deeper manly noise! Overall I am very impressed with these. Much better than HS Yellows, TNN LGMs and Koxx Reds.
  4. Any booster will be a lot better than the standard one. Are you running evo or 4 bolt mounts?
  5. Sweet, although black forks will make it look 100x better! Spray them
  6. If im honest it'll never be the same, your best bet is just new pads and either throughly clean the rotor or buy a new one. You can get pads and rotors off ebay for rather cheap than official avid replacements which will work just as good IMO
  7. Rockman you can get replacement axles and bearing pretty easily, but I have a rear TR and I cant fault it. They are both very good hubs really
  8. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJJj-TlrikM
  9. "Bloody excellent fall that!"
  10. I've got a Trialtech Sprung tensioner. I cant really compare because its the only one I have used but to me its been faultless. Easy to set up and keeps tension well
  11. Driveside is the opposite end, the end where the cup has a collar and there is also a spacer. You will need to remove the non drive side (sleeveless cup) to insert the BB first.
  12. Ive used a the new HS11, seems pretty good IMO
  13. Sickipedia.org </thread>
  14. That would be nice! But its need to be proper none of this halflink running shenanigans!!
  15. Nice one Joe! The bird at the end sums up Southend well! Ride soon
  16. Attach the syringe with water to the hole where the cable would usually go. Also have the bleed bolt in and force the piston out by squeezing the syringe. Will be hard but it worked for me!
  17. It is a tank! And the wheels are fine! Cheers
  18. I wouldn't mind backing stuff up but there are 4 users and there is quite a bit of stuff and I'm not quite sure how I would go about doing it really
  19. How easy is it to update from vista to w7, it's on my family computer and I don't want people to lose their data. Also how would I go about doing it?
  20. What's wrong with the pedals?
  21. Ermm, I'm not sure but I wouldn't like to grind it as i'm running disc
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