cai

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http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=59925'>4-el tensioner mount.JPG Those dropouts look really good!

..and Facebook and Twitter it seems

Try lightly sanding the graphic, then re-spray that section with lacquer?

Get a higher front end?

The problem is Ozzy, as I understand it, the freewheel that lasted me over 2 years isn't the same one being sold today. The new batch is worse (as verified by some of the comments in this topic).

Running a FFW is definitely better for weight distribution, but seeing as no one can recommend me a viable replacement for my broken SL then I'm turning to the reliable option of a Pro2.

I used the original SL as there were great reviews for them at the time, saying that the EP's were spot on and that they were very reliable, which was true. It just seems that they've gone downhill since. Over the last 4 years, whilst running a FFW on my 'trials bike', I've been running a Pro2 on my 'street bike' and its never skipped and they are so easy to service. Which is why I'll build that Pro2 onto my Echo TR rim. Not fussed on weight, I just want reliablillity..

Bit out of my price range and the locking is on the wrong (like the Tensile). I've got a Pro 2 Trials hub built onto a 26" rim so I'm going to build it onto my current 24" rim, it's a more reliable option than any of the current freewheels and I'll only have to fork out the money for spokes

Other than noise, is there a difference?

Those cranks look lethal!

Cheers for the information, I'm tempted to go for a free hub like a Pro II Trials now..

Mixed reviews for the Try-All then. I'd rather hear about the Echo SL. How is it any different than it used to be?

There's not a huge choice. The Insprired 60 click looks the same as the 60 click Tensile freewheels, so both have the locking on the wrong side. The 72 click viz/rockman and 108 click viz/rockman/try-all/trialtech look like catalogue parts - they may be okay though? Then there's the Try-All 120.9 which could prove unreliable. The rest of them are out of my price range..

After 2 years my silver/original SL exploded (the outer ring snapped in 3 places) today whilst riding rocks, thankfully I'm not too hurt. I've had a look at the freewheel page on Tarty and the SL still looks like the top choice, but it's now black, is this still the same freewheel just with a colour change or has it had a complete re-design? Is it still as reliable as the original SL?

You could file the worn snail cam 'stub' into a better shape, so the snail cam doesn't pop off it.

I ride 24", every 24" tyre is horrible.. I'd certainly choose a slicked Try-all tyre over any of the tyres currently available for 24". The only half decent tyres are the High Roller and Swampthing in Maxxis' 42a compound, but they're nearly impossible to get a hold of. The 60a versions of these tyres are terrible. The Big Betty and Fat Albert tyres are crap in the wet. This is why anybody who rides natural/rocks/in the wet/comps/pure trials on a 24" would like to see something along the lines of a Maxxis Creepy Crawler, or a Try-all Sticky, or a Monty Eagle Claw, or a Continental tyre with the black chilli compound on sale.

It looks fairly good, if the cranks and all of the red bits were black then it'd look amazing.

Personally I'd go for 24", but I'm 6'2. 20" would suit someone of your height alot better though..

I always found that putting any lubricant/water/hairspray/paint in between foam grips and the bar to help them slide on results in them slipping. Try sanding/scratching the bars slightly where the grips will sit, this roughens the surface to make it a little grippier for the foam grips. If you can't get them on then dry then use the cable tie method to slide the grips on easily.

Really good riding riding at some fun looking spots. I'm not keen on the song but it seemed to work with the video.. I liked the pedalling bunny hop at the end!

..so when you use a disc (lets say 180mm) that offers enough leverage to stop a larger wheel (such as a 24" or a 26") on a 20" then you have more power when comparing that disc with a more conventional 160mm disc. If you have a good enough brake (BB5/7, Hope, Saint), set it up well, install the best pads, keep the rotor running straight, and don't let the disc and pads get contaminated then you'll have a good enough brake no matter what size rotor you choose. I run a 160mm BB7 on the front of my 24" and it is ridiculously good!

180mm on a mod is perfectly fine. It's a little heavier, and you've got a little less ground clearance, but you've got more leverage which gives you a better/stronger brake.

Matt B & Iolo's video is pretty awesome, it's how I'd like to be able to ride trials