cai

I'll peeel it off if you'd like Am changing the forks and front tyre! But the rear tyre is mint, and the bar & stem are spot on I'll get back to you on that one buddy! When I gather £40 - I seriously am skint now :L Does it still spring up and down then? As I need it to, cos I my bb's a little bent ~ haha

have fun with those pencils mate x

It will never have a maggie I just hate any 'hydro' brakes... Might get a rear BB7 one day, so I can ride in the rain ~ haha No sure how it compares to the Inspireds or Zoots - even though I have a Zoot frame kicking about, I've never rode it... This rides amazing for both street and trials to be honest. Although I thought the Inspireds and Zoots were more suited to trials than this But I have no problems with rear wheel stuff - perhaps you need a high front end mate?

Well I took the advice of some people and got some new parts, now I'm only really saving up for new forks (either Urbans or Controls). -So got a DDG stem (was yellow so decided to spray it black - unfortunatly I only had silver and blue spray paint) -ProII Trials rear hub, -Took the seat off my old BMX and slammed it as much as my seatpost will allow (theres still loads of clearence between tyre and seat ), -Single speed now, with a Mr. Control tensioner, -Got some Heatsink blue pads, in Heatsink CNC backings. And I've gotta say it rides so much better Not sure about how its looks now - but its all about the ride I guess! I told you the clearence was okay! I think I'll have to get this thing a little lighter soon, as its overweight Comment away!

I'd much prefur to use that than re-grind or file a rim....

Smooth with tar, or light grind is awsome Never put my CRV's (vee brake versions of CRM's) on a medium - but might soon...

ME Well I just sold him the Team... Glad it rides good. That was my favourite mod frame ever!! And you are right about the whole flicky-ness, I loved its flicky-ness - its what made me eventually go to 24" Have fun with it x btw which rides nicer? Team or Lite?

GU the lower the bb the better in my opinion, and I hate 'mod-style' dropouts - they just annoy me So the Rockman wouldn't be ideal...

Loving the Tensile forks on that frame!!!!! They look so sexy - hope they are strong though (I'm sure Burton will be testing there strength soon)...

Oh, those rims look lush now they're built up Infact the whole bike looks very nice!

FSA DH pig proII's are very good! Long name, I know - but they are so strong, cheap and the bearings stay so smooth...

Its weaker! As the 'split-link' has thinner shaped plates, so more prone to snapping...After all, a chains only as strong as its weakest link - so I'd just push the pin back through

They sound sooo dodgy

Go for it then Theres nothing wrong with Ultimate levers - bar the price!

Theres really no need for the Ultimate lever - an SD7 is almost as good, and they're £13 for two!! (on 'CycleSurgery') link

The 'Koxx Carbon' looks pretty sweet! £1300 so not too much for what your getting Found here. If your serious about that, then perhaps a Monty 231 Kamel is the one for you Its £2300 - I guess if you can afford it? Found here.

I'd prefur an Avid (BB5 / 7) anyday over a hydro - BB7's are just so easy and simple to set up and the adjustability is awsome (BB5's aren't bad either). I just had alot of bad experiences with my old Hope, the lever never pulled to where I wanted it (as the oil expands and stuff), and leaks which contamaneted the pads >.< And you don't get these problems with a cable brake

Get a vee

Youtube

I think its a very good thing!! Only reason I prefured the 04's was because of the bashplate mounts

Well thas gay..

Are you using vee-daptors on your frame? Or do you have actual vee mounts? As you can move the vee-daptors futher out from the rim, so the arms can be straighter... If you've got actual vee mounts, umm you have tried changing the spacers/washers around on the pads right? As one 'side' usually has smaller spacers - so run these on the side next to the pads. Other than that you can only; 1. cut the pads down 2. get a thinner rim neither of those are very helpful But you could get a longer bottom bracket? So your ankles don't catch on the arms

Of course he needs a booster! Without that shitty 'Evo 2' booster at the back, whenever the brake is 'pulled' the callipers would just push away from the rim (pivoting around the vee brake mounts).I'm guessing this is what you ment by it being mega flexy, but he dfinatly needs a booster on there. Maybe two like a Revell 2-bolt attatched to the front of the M5 bolts. But seriously, all of that for IMO a much worse of a brake Vee brakes are just awsome (aslong as they are decent arms, pads, etc.. obviously. People complain that they're Promax brake sets are crap, buy Avid/shimano!) and if you've you've got the mounts on your frame / forks already - then no need for the adaptors, win win all round But its your choice, all we can do is advice you whats best...

I'm just going to explain this as if the wheel is rubing on the 'non-drive side'/disc side of the frame. If the wheel is rubing on the 'drive side'/chain side of the frame, do the oposite of what I say Just tighten every other spoke that comes from the drive side of the hub about 2-3 complete rotations should do it! But if your spokes are already quite tense, loosen the 'non-drive side' spokes say 1 turn - and tighten the 'drive side' spokes 1 maybe 2 turns. Edit: It's really very easy! Once you've built a wheel successfully, truing etc.. is all very simple to do

SD7 levers are amazing, fact! There £12.99 for two on this site (click here), they're a trust worthy shop - I brought my SD7 levers from them