cai

Its 135mm. And I really do like it. Reasonable price, good geo and very light weight. Apperently its quite stiff too even though its that light. As for the paint job.. but who gives a f*ck about the looks of a bike if it rides nice.

I find it funny that the two new frames on Tarty are the Onza Limey 3 and the GU LE 09 - and the geometrys are identical

Amazing video - I'm seriously in love with this type of trials riding.

Hahahaha. What a joke..

Hardly the same geo then is it..

When will Tarty have them in?

All the trials coverage starts 19 minutes in, and ends on the 26th minute

Which ever side your having trouble fitting (left/right hand side?) install this side first. And then fit the other side which went on easily for you before.

3.72

Schwalbe Mow Joe "Super-fast tire for BMX racing. It is fast on track and tenacious in curves." 20" (folding) 20 x 1.40 - 290 grams 20 x 1.85 - 330 grams 20 x 2.00 - 380 grams 20" (non-folding) 20 x 1.85 - 410 grams 24" (folding) 24 x 1.85 - 420 grams 24" (non-folding) 24 x 1.85 - 510 grams

I ran my Ultimate on the rear of my 05 Pythong - and that worked perfectly, didn't have trouble setting it up at all. My advise would be to add a 4-bolt booster under the v-daptors. This will raise the height of the vee-brake up a cm or so and will sort out your problem. You'd have to use a booster that is flat on top, so the v-daptors set square - I'd recomend an RB booster for this.

Well the other side of the 'thing' is 0.5mm thicker, so you just use the other side when your chain stretches just spin the tensioner around 180 degrees and your okay. At the end of the day you may end up buying another slightly bigger pair for when you chain has stretched.

I'd say the opposite, not saying that Damons not controlled but you've got to remember Tra's video was mainly on rocks - which increases the difficulty level. Im still a TGS fan though

Looks nice. This the long or the short? and whats the wheelbase actually measure up too? I ask this purely because I think the new Zoo's are to short - but the previous models turned out to be far longer than the factory stated geometrys.. Weight saving

After seeing his Giro Havoc the day he got it, I went and bought one They really are lightweight, look more than allright, not too pricey and are comfy - thats a winner in my eyes!

Firstly they're aluminium, not plastic. Although I agree that making them from steel would be that bit more reassureing.. And secondly they would be theoretically stronger then snail cams - as cams have just as much of a chance to buckle/snap as these would, and with the snail cam set-up you run the risk of snapping the little bolt head off that screws into the frame. I'd definitely give these a try

My BB7 was fine for the rear of my 24", and are good enough for alot of peoples front brake for trials use - so they'll be more than good enough for the rear of a street bike.. And yes, they offer incredable hold and a nice bit of modulation. However I find them lacking in bite when on the rear.

To be fair to the lad you do get the 'painted' silver colour, and then the raw aluminium silver colour - but these tend to be labelled as 'mirror'. It'll look like this: Hint: im pointing to the silver one

Well are you using smooth snail cams? If so go purchase some teethed ones. Otherwise I don't know what to advise without seeing a picture of your set up.

Maybe this steel insert is not the correct solution - but there is definatly a problem their, look at the amount of people who have had to resort to using the coke can bodge to stop their crank wobble. Plus I'd like to be able to remove the cranks without the thought of "this is ruining the splines on my crank arm", what with the amount of freewheels people go through cranks tend to be taken off every so often.

But you broke that - hense this 'new one' being called a bodge..

Tar = cheating Its got to be Phat pads mate, on a nice deep grind - once bedded in theres no need to re-grind your rim for a while, I put my phat pads on at the start of the new year and have only just re-ground my rim. They are exellant, just because of their un-beatable hold. Edit: spelling mistakes once again

Really don't want to read every reply in this thread to see if any ones wrote this yet.. Firstly having a 116mm rear hub insted of a 135mm won't change the geometry if your planning on having vertical dropouts, if however your having horizontal dropouts the geometery will always depend on how far you've moved the wheel to tension the chain. A mod stem will be stupidly long, most stock stems are too long and low for 24", go buy yourself a short but high-rise stem. 1060 is too long - my Heatsink is 1025 and rides pefectly comfortable (im 6 foot 1 and also ride a Zoo Pitbull thats 1100 - so shortness on a 24" fells good) and alot of other 24" frames are between 1030 - 1040, any longer and it'd loss its spinability And discs are good, I ran an Avid BB7 (203mm rotor) on the rear of mine through the winter due to my vee on a smooth being nn-existant when the rain started. Loads of modulation and never once slipped - no bite/grab compared to my vee, but you can't have it all I guess plus they're ear friendly unlike every Magura and Vee trials set up I've ever heard. Cai x

Thats why you hold the 'gold thing' with your other hand - you've got two for a reason

Ah, then put the 'grinded out bit' into the clamping area of the RB lever?