ben_travis

Replacing anything on my car. I know it needs done, but hate having to spend my cash on it.

This is a cross posed from Pinkbike: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/poll-press-fit-bottom-brackets.html. The formatting has gone a little to rat sh*t, but might be interesting to some. The Specialzed Carbon Demo's threadless bottom bracket shell is an aluminum insert which doubles to house the swingarm bearings - both are press-fit types. There is an on-going battle between bike makers, retailers and customers over press-fit vs threaded type bottom brackets, with a large number of riders and bike shops opting for threaded cups. Frame and bike makers, however, have been systematically switching to press-fit types and if the trend continues, it will only be one or three years before all production mountain bikes will be converted to threadless bottom brackets. Before all you Knights of the Royal Order of the Threaded Bottom Bracket draw your swords, please understand that technically, ALL bottom brackets are press-fit designs. The only physical difference is that the conventional BB's bearing is pressed into a cup, while Press-fit types. like the popular BB30, have their bearings pressed directly into the frame. After they are pressed or tightened into a functional bottom bracket, both systems operate in exactly the same way. Niner specifies threads for its WFO 9 AM/enduro chassis and for all the frames in its lineup. Frame sales are a large part of the business and Niner insists that its bikes are cross-compatible among component makers and also user friendly. Arguments in favor of threads are numerous, but only three are viable: Threaded cups can be serviced with simple wrenches that almost everyone owns; threaded cups allow component makers to have complete control over every moving part of the crankset from pedal to pedal; and finally, threaded type bottom brackets seldom creak, while at present, press-fit bottom brackets often creak. There is a mechanical reason why seatposts, headsets and bottom brackets creak when they are stressed. When a smaller diameter tube is being held inside a larger-diameter tube, there is a significant difference between the stiffness of the larger and smaller members. When a bending moment is applied to the smaller tube, the smaller-diameter member flexes more than the larger-diameter one which is holding it. The smaller tube elongates slightly as it flexes and it slips inside the larger one. That microscopic movement causes the creaking noise. The slip can be exaggerated when a bearing is pressed between the two members, such as a bottom bracket, because flex in the bottom bracket axle is multiplied by the distance from the axle to the outer diameter of the bearing. Because bicycles have a number of places where this situation can occur, and because cyclists in general are enflamed by any recurring squeak or rattle, designers have spent many sleepless nights figuring out ways to silence seatposts, hubs, pedals, headsets and yes, bottom brackets too. Once assembled, the external-cup, 73-millimeter threaded bottom bracket (top) and the 92-millimeter press-fit type (below) are functionally the same and use the same size bearings. The Press-fit, design, however, offers more bearing support, it has fewer and less complicated parts, and it gives frame makers room to widen frame tubes or get creative with suspension components. Those naive enough to believe that threaded bottom brackets emerged from the cycling industry's womb creak free would be dead wrong. One hundred years passed before bike makes got a handle on that one. Headsets creaked like baby toads until mountain bike designers ditched the threads and adopted oversized steerers. There are strategies in place to silence bottom brackets. Some thread-in cups have Teflon liners which allow the bearings to rock silently. Some are glued in tightly with thread-locking material. Some makers, like Chris King, rely on precise manufacturing tolerances and insider secrets to ensure silence. There is also a theory that aluminum external threaded cups flex just enough to prevent slip between the shaft and the bearings and thus naturally prevent creaking at the source. The point is moot, however, because over time, natural selection has eliminated all the brands that made noisy thread-in bottom brackets. Proponents of threads either ignore or forget that even a perfectly faced and threaded frame can require the skills of a safe cracker to get the cups started without cross-threading them. It is easy to mess up the fine threads of an aluminum bottom bracket cup. Acros makes a tool which keeps the cup and frame aligned to avoid cross-threading expensive parts. Anyone who has cross-threaded a cup the night before a race or ride can attest that it is game-over unless luck is on your side AND you have a sharp set of bottom bracket taps in your tool box. Park Tool's press-fit bearing removal and replacement tools are simple to use and they get the job done in minutes - however, removing a threaded external cup with a spline wrench is a much more civilized process. A large number of press-fit supporters come from the manufacturing sector because threading and facing frames is costly and bolloxed threads can be a significant manufacturing and warranty issue. Pressed-in bearings are simpler to install and replace, and press-in BBs are less costly. More important, though, is that carbon construction can produce a beautifully precise press-in interface, but it does not lend itself well to threads, so typically, a threaded-aluminum insert is bonded into the BB shell. Press-fit BB shells are made the full width of the bearings (92mm wide instead of 73mm) which also gives frame designers room to widen the frame tubes and make the BB area much more rigid. A number of home and shop tools now exist that make removing and replacing press-fit BB bearings a three-minute operation, and bearings can be purchased from any number of sources, including on-line industrial suppliers in any country. It would seem then, that the last real barrier to press-in is noise. A bit of an exaggeration, but the bottom bracket area of Pivot's carbon Les Fat illustrates how much wider and more rigid the frame can be made when press-in type bearings are used. One can extrapolate that it is only a matter of time when bike and component makers will silence press-fit bottom brackets. Shimano has made great strides by encasing the bearing in a press-in nylon cup (other BB makers are now using similar cups). The thermoplastic has just enough give to absorb any bearing movement, and also, it can overcome a slight amount of misalignment or out-of-roundness in the frame. Nylon also does not transmit sound well, so the cups act as a silencer, which is a key feature, especially when one considers how carbon frames tend to amplify sounds like musical instruments. Eliminating creaky press-fits can't be easy, otherwise it would have been done long ago, but "difficult" is not "impossible," .

A short couple of clips from me: Vimeo Video -> Original Video

Sheer kerb variety alone should win this for Stephen.

Are you sure people aren't saying 'should've' as opposed to 'should of'? Suppose its much the same thing, but should've seems to be a correct contracted form, but MEH. I should of known this topic would be full of moany ol' men...

The top photo is almost pro IMO, just the two out of focus leaves in the foreground lets it down. Great shots though

no 180 out, no care

The pics just show a static to back in my book, although the technique is much the same as a sidehop to back (apart from the twist). Others might consider it differently. Who cares what it is called, it is still impressive how high some can do it. In my opinion, technique is a much undervalued attribute by some riders. Raw power alone will not allow you to Bersha / Damon sized sidehops. For me, the thing many people lack, and what I think stops them from going higher, is pre-load. The more you preload the more leverage on the power stage of the kick. In addition, one of the things I distinctly remember from my TGS days was my lack of flexibility. I couldn't touch my toes at all (middle of shins at most), and remember seeing Kenny B wrapping his arms around the back of his legs and touching his heels with the palm side of his fingers at a comp back in the day. I have definitely improved on my bike since i've spent more time improving my flexibility, I barely do any power work anymore, mainly because i'd rather ride my bike than spend it in the gym.

So seeing as no-one has gone yet, I'll throw my hat into the ring to get things started. Vimeo Video -> Original Video For anyone complaining about lack of time, i filmed this in three hours, threw it together in iMovie in an hour, so get out there and lets see some videos

you could repeat the pose in your profile picture to update it...

Aurelien is so powerful while maintaining style. More then once I guffawed at how big a line he did, whilst making it look like he wasn't trying. Still think his cameraman needs to lay off the drugs...or just watch the screen on his camera. Anyone know where that trials park is? Looks fun.

Hey Steve, I don't use maguras anymore, and it has been a long time since I have, but I do think the 04 lever style, 2 bolt clamp, with a better protected tpa design (similar to a Fresh products lever) would be the way to go. The direct piston actuation was a much better design in my opinion, easier to bleed, simple and solid. Have a look at making the lever blade wider (ala magura MT5 / MT7 lever blade (it's so comfy)) with some better ergonomics. a flat back on the blade to reduce the number of cut fingers would be good as well.

Is Zoot_Alors still going?

Love that. So good, James. Style for Miles

The one and only....

Added a leftovers video to the OP.

NAHHHHHHHHHHHH

Thanks for all the comments guys. Much appreciated. I was trying to minimise the number of BC's in my riding. The sidehop pedal switch thing was just so that I was left foot forward for the next part of the line, allowed the line to flow a little more, and just felt fun to do. I find that it looks a little more controlled if you don't have to back-pedal mid line. Spending more time honing my technique now-a-days, rather than constantly just killing myself trying to go big.

I know the alliteration makes the title of this topic more interesting, however we should definitely be calling this a 'kerb comp', unless your use of curb is to allow our friends across the pond to understand what this comp is about? In other news, I am in. Going hunting kerbs...

Cheers for the comments guys. Appreciated. This one made me laugh though. Sadly, I am light years away from Ali. Hence why I have to wear the same outfits as him...

Long Bike Riders - take note, no matter how big you go, this is how controlled you should aim to be on your bike. Good to see you pulling out the big sh*t Damon. One thing though, I hope that you somehow intend on going back over the roadside rail after the gap to the slanted wall (under the window) ;-).

Evening All, I was saving some of these clips for another wee project, but it won't be coming off for the time being. So thought I'd just release these into the wilderness. Sorry it has mainly been filmed using a tripod. Thanks to Flipp for filming the London Clips. EDIT: and Ross for the Glasgow clips Hopefully have a better video out soon. Go to Vimeo to watch in HD. Thanks to Inspired Bicycles and Phoenix Riders Co for their support. Vimeo Video -> Original Video Some leftovers put together in this video. Had to use the vimeo enhancer as the original music wasn't allowed; Vimeo Video -> Original Video

sooooooo good. great video guys! will be on repeat on the TV before tonights ride

stan shaw has some 24' TIOGA rims for sale in the FS section. Would be a good buy!!