ben_travis

This was the only minor issue i've had so far, although now i've started riding the bike more often it seems to have spread the sealant around the wheel a bit more. No issues with burping and did some decent enough gaps yesterday to test them :). I'll give it another couple of months before i get back up to doing bigger stuff, and post my full thoughts then, but so far so good.

@AndyT - Huck Norris - https://www.pinkbike.com/news/huck-norris-review-2017.html is the commercial version of what Ali did. The foam can be found online at amazon, here is a UK link (sure you'll find something similar over there) https://www.amazon.co.uk/sound-proofing-insulation-closed-DELIVERY/dp/B00GQXIYHG/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1487506463&sr=1-1&keywords=sound+proofing+%26+heat+insulation+sheet+closed+cell+foam+size+2mtr+x+50cm+x+10mm+FREE+DELIVERY+IN+UK

@AndyT, I've actually followed Ali's tutorial for going tubeless and it works a charm! I've not had a chance to ride my bike in anger yet, but it has sealed a treat (probably due to using the bikeshops compressor to get my tires seated). I did a decent enough rail gap without any burps or issues earlier this week. If you can afford a 'huck norris' set-up then it'll make your life easier, but getting some of the closed cell foam and cutting it down yourself is easy enough, and cheap :).

I think we all just got given the:

The subtitles would need translations of their own

I could tell you, but I'd have to kill you

I guess the first thing you need to figure out is what you think you want to do. I went back to college evening course, still working in the graduate position I was in. It took me 6 years to get the degree I wanted, in the meantime I worked full time, eventually getting into an engineers position in the industry I wanted too. I was studying 2-3 nights a week, then a whole day on the weekend studying, so didn't have a lot of time for much else than work / studying, but it paid off. Also, if you get lucky, you might manage to get a company to sponsor you through college. I had it put in my contract that they'd pay for it, but I had to stay with the company for a year or two (can't remember which) after completion. You have to try be positive about it, if you're negative, you'll end up staying where you are. Have a think, and hopefully an idea will come to you. Then you have to action it. Go for it. Wholeheartedly. There is always a way if you put everything into it. P.s. I do understand that its a lot easier said, then done, but if you don't commit to it, it'll never happen.

Go back to college, start again, try something new. Don't be afraid to start at the bottom

Won't need to watch ali's vlog at this rate....:p

Ali C (and maybe Dunc Shaw did one too) has a slow-mo instagram post profiling probably the nicest bunny to front technique in the business. I'd suggest having a look at that. My written tip is that, similar to the hook topic, you should concentrate aiming for your front wheel right to the edge of the wall, and you need your body over the front wheel. You are probably right that you take off with the front wheel slightly earlier, but it won't be by much.

No. Remember, both wheels are to hit at the same time (see Flipps diagram), you're essentially landing in a wedge, but the back wheel should give a bit of bounce (and you're momentum should put your body above the front wheel) with the front wheel being the pivot point. Obviously the wheel will roll a little, that's why 'most' brakeless hooks go up to both wheels rather than to back.

@niconj hitting the front wheel at speed was the fear for me. Coming from riding long bikes and only doing pedal hooks, as well as not having natural talent for street riding, I needed to work at confidence for my bunnyhop hooks. I've just got to the point I can do them comfortably on my Arcade, and the thing I had to get over was comfort with the speed.

I went through a period of fear with hooks. To the point I wouldn't do them at all. I agree with both Flipp and Ali that the bunny hop technique is all about the speed. Also, my opinion is that there are some walls that are too small to learn on, because you will end up getting too far up on the wall, hitting your bash / front wheel too far up etc. Make sure you find something that's high enough that you can't hop up it to both wheels

What type of hook are you looking at doing? A short run-up Pedal hook (most likely on a long bike) or a Bunnyhop Hook (most likely on a streetier bike)?

Put your back into it....

The MT6 works fine and dandy front and rear (for both hold and modulation). if I'm doing hops to rear, or front for that matter, my tire usually slides back (or forward if going to front) way before my brake ever slips. I understand why Ali runs the Mt7 on the rear, but then most people don't go as big as Ali. I've had my MT6's front and rear for around 9 months now, on various 180mm rotors with the standard pads, and had only one problem (lever blade pins popping out), but this happened on my MT7 levers as well from time to time. You get the same lever as an MT7 with the MT6, and less issue with brake rub in my experience. Also...its far cheaper. So would fully recommend a set.

I have only just got around to getting good enough interwebs to watch this, and it was worth the wait. you AB!

Ross Mcarthur in 'not in the know' shocker Really hope you've still got your brake on luke...

I <3 Luke / his riding! Don't think you realise just how good you are!

Good to see there is a scene up there, and look forward to seeing more vids from Iceland. Loved it when I visited in 2015. If i get a chance to come back, I'll hopefully have the bike with me.

or just run normal tubes at higher pressure and save the weight of a DH tube?

Luke is a bigger unit than most though (no offence luke - ), so the extra weight is less noticeable as his tree trunk legs are able to power through. In addition it looks like he does run his tyres quite soft so he can do those big sidehops... @RossBurnside - I've slowly been bumping the pressure up over the past couple of months as I've been trying bigger stuff, it does take a bit of getting used to, but certainly wouldn't be running them less then 40psi now. I don't think they pinch 'that easy', we're saying they pinch every now and then (as every tire does). I used to pinch my high rollers / der Kaisers at 20 psi regularly, so it can happen with any tyre. Answering the post's questions, when you consider weight vs. puncture protection vs. rolling resistance of all the available tyres, the conti's stand out as the obvious winner (IMO). They do seem to work well on 24" long bikes too (as Ross has demonstrated) but I'd think for regular use on some slimy rocks on the side of a hill, there may be better options.

Do you rim out on 'everything' or just when you're doing something big? Cos I don't rim out that often at 45psi, but get the odd puncture when I'm trying something a bit big or land something a sketchier than my usual sketchiness

Pedal Wheelie line to rail gap was the shiiiiit!

Love it Cap! Good to see you still going big!!