ben_travis

Ali C (and maybe Dunc Shaw did one too) has a slow-mo instagram post profiling probably the nicest bunny to front technique in the business. I'd suggest having a look at that. My written tip is that, similar to the hook topic, you should concentrate aiming for your front wheel right to the edge of the wall, and you need your body over the front wheel. You are probably right that you take off with the front wheel slightly earlier, but it won't be by much.

No. Remember, both wheels are to hit at the same time (see Flipps diagram), you're essentially landing in a wedge, but the back wheel should give a bit of bounce (and you're momentum should put your body above the front wheel) with the front wheel being the pivot point. Obviously the wheel will roll a little, that's why 'most' brakeless hooks go up to both wheels rather than to back.

@niconj hitting the front wheel at speed was the fear for me. Coming from riding long bikes and only doing pedal hooks, as well as not having natural talent for street riding, I needed to work at confidence for my bunnyhop hooks. I've just got to the point I can do them comfortably on my Arcade, and the thing I had to get over was comfort with the speed.

I went through a period of fear with hooks. To the point I wouldn't do them at all. I agree with both Flipp and Ali that the bunny hop technique is all about the speed. Also, my opinion is that there are some walls that are too small to learn on, because you will end up getting too far up on the wall, hitting your bash / front wheel too far up etc. Make sure you find something that's high enough that you can't hop up it to both wheels

What type of hook are you looking at doing? A short run-up Pedal hook (most likely on a long bike) or a Bunnyhop Hook (most likely on a streetier bike)?

Put your back into it....

The MT6 works fine and dandy front and rear (for both hold and modulation). if I'm doing hops to rear, or front for that matter, my tire usually slides back (or forward if going to front) way before my brake ever slips. I understand why Ali runs the Mt7 on the rear, but then most people don't go as big as Ali. I've had my MT6's front and rear for around 9 months now, on various 180mm rotors with the standard pads, and had only one problem (lever blade pins popping out), but this happened on my MT7 levers as well from time to time. You get the same lever as an MT7 with the MT6, and less issue with brake rub in my experience. Also...its far cheaper. So would fully recommend a set.

I have only just got around to getting good enough interwebs to watch this, and it was worth the wait. you AB!

Ross Mcarthur in 'not in the know' shocker Really hope you've still got your brake on luke...

I <3 Luke / his riding! Don't think you realise just how good you are!

Good to see there is a scene up there, and look forward to seeing more vids from Iceland. Loved it when I visited in 2015. If i get a chance to come back, I'll hopefully have the bike with me.

or just run normal tubes at higher pressure and save the weight of a DH tube?

Luke is a bigger unit than most though (no offence luke - ), so the extra weight is less noticeable as his tree trunk legs are able to power through. In addition it looks like he does run his tyres quite soft so he can do those big sidehops... @RossBurnside - I've slowly been bumping the pressure up over the past couple of months as I've been trying bigger stuff, it does take a bit of getting used to, but certainly wouldn't be running them less then 40psi now. I don't think they pinch 'that easy', we're saying they pinch every now and then (as every tire does). I used to pinch my high rollers / der Kaisers at 20 psi regularly, so it can happen with any tyre. Answering the post's questions, when you consider weight vs. puncture protection vs. rolling resistance of all the available tyres, the conti's stand out as the obvious winner (IMO). They do seem to work well on 24" long bikes too (as Ross has demonstrated) but I'd think for regular use on some slimy rocks on the side of a hill, there may be better options.

Do you rim out on 'everything' or just when you're doing something big? Cos I don't rim out that often at 45psi, but get the odd puncture when I'm trying something a bit big or land something a sketchier than my usual sketchiness

Pedal Wheelie line to rail gap was the shiiiiit!

Love it Cap! Good to see you still going big!!

Enjoying these luke! Nice to see you're still riding smooth and with your own little twist.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Always appreciated. Looking forward to moving on with some more things I want to get done now!

I've been working on this for a while (hence the snow in the first shot), filmed in and around Aberdeen throughout 2016. Thanks to all those who've pressed record and put up with my moaning and groaning! Also to Inspired Bicycles for their continued support and for designing the trials bike I've had most fun on. Throughout most of my video I've got on the different versions of the Drop and Roll Tour Tees (both the original version and black / grey version) you can grab these through their website Song: Meth Lab Zoso Sticker - 7Horse Youtube: Vimeo:

this is the truth...so smooth!

Have a wee look on this map for Aberdeen / surrounding area; https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1tt_jY-d9V1T68RTwun-2ldMWyWo Places such as Stonehaven, Newtonhill, Aberdeen Beach have some decent rock spots, there are a couple of quarries out at banchory (search craiglash), that you could possibly ride on a sunday. I've yet to find an 'amazing' natural terrain spot around aberdeenshire, but if you find something, please let me know.

I like your riding. I like it alot.

What he said.

"R&D phase" - so they're admitting that they are looking into making some trials specific products? TT levers look sweet - if i was still into that kind of thing!

Out of interest, do you buy this vinyl direct from VviVid? or somewhere else? How much do you use for the frame & fork and what is the cost?