Revolver

Get a because 24".

They are still pretty small, and expensive.

Mm, the boredom of the geometry thingy seems to be the problem for this guy.. it seems like he's always looking for new frames. Well, if you try loads and loads of frames, you'll be able to tell which parts of which frames you like, and combine them in ultimate form. A triton might cost twice as much as an ordinary frame, but if you get the perfect geometry, it would stop you buying new frames for ever, so you'd save money after two weeks, or how ever long you keep a frame for.

Why don't you buy a TRITON?! Find a geometry you like, get a titanium custom frame, so it's super-light... sorted!

Well, if it tastes of metal, it's a metal axle.

You measured it wrong, look at the picture, you started measuring from the blank bit of the ruler. Take a picture of the hub, email Onza about it. It might be time to buy a new hub, you can get a better one. Look in the for sale for hope pro II wheels.

Interesting that it's 150mm long. Even on a stock, that's too wide really. It depends on whether it's quick release or funbolt or what though. What bike is it? Did you buy it complete, is the wheel standard?

The axle broke, so I presume you have the hub that it came from... so it's a (insert what hub it is) axle. ? Also it looks like you measured it from the edge of the ruler, rather than where the ruler reads 0, so I think it's 150mm.

Stock means 26" bike Mod means 20" bike. You ride a mod. Even if it is standard spec, or stock, it is a mod.

It does the same job as a freewheel, its just built in.

It wouldn't work at all. 19" wheels are made for mod frames. Mod frames take rear hubs that are 116mm wide. Hope pro II hubs are 135mm wide. Now, if you want my 'rewis' of a hope pro II trials - it's outstanding, and if you break it, hope seem to be more than happy to fix it or replace it for you.

It's not how you spell Caesar though, idiot. Also, fuelled.

Warning: You might be friends with idiots.

+1

That doesn't sound right. A freewheel is a type of rachet mechanism that means, when installed on a bike, you can pedal forwards to move forwards, and you can stop pedalling and you'll keep going. Anyway, a freewheel, whether it's on the front or the back, does the same thing. A freehub is simply a hub that has the freewheel mechanism built in. On a mountain bike typically it's mounted inside a slotted barrel that you can slide sprockets onto. On a profile, it's a similar system but the barrel is much shorter so you can only fit one sprocket onto it. If you're using a mod, 20" bike, then you'll be looking at 18-12 gearing. Having a freewheel on the front is usually the cheapest option. If you use a profile, it'll probably come with a 12t sprocket, so you'll need a fixed 18 sprocket on the front. You CAN use a freewheel on the front and the rear, but it's absolutely pointless, you get no benefits whatsoever, and it costs you more money to set up. Now your other questions... Mods usually come with the freewheel on the front, it's the cheaper option. I'd stick to that. In trials, and mountainbike you have one type of BB shell, which is what you know as Euro. BBs for trials come in two splines, square tapered and isis. In BMX your cranks have the axle in the BB, but in trials the axle is inside the BB, hence the need for standard fittings! You can buy cranks in a few lengths, and to fit square or ISIS. I'd personally recommend ISIS as it seems to be a more durable spline, there's more choice for cranks and BBs in trials, and the cranks don't come loose as much, unless you ruin them. Tar is an option for making rubbish brakes work better. If you have a standard brake set up - magura's own pads, and a smooth rim, by all means use some, but only use a tiny bit, don't overdo it or else you'll find your brake sticking. I'd leave it at that. If you have the money, buy a better set of brake pads, an angle grinder, and maybe a brake booster. The angle grinder's used to roughen the rim's surface, which when you think about it, sounds obvious as to how it makes the brake better. However, if you use shit pads like the standard magura pads, they will disintegrate, hence the need for better ones that can cope with a grind. You won't look back. Next, yes you can get fixed sprockets off from wheels and cranks. Bear with me -Tartybikes is seen to be the best place to get hold of trials parts. However they do have a section of videos, some of them explaining products - I suggest you watch them - and some of them explaining how to do mechanical tasks, including how to set up your brake, and... How to get those tricky sprockets off! FInally, no, a bike made for a 20" rear wheel has brake mounts set up for a 20" wheel, so if you put a 19" wheel in there, you can't use the brake. Unless you have a rear disc brake...

A toss lever causes this problem as well, although a SD7 is hardly a toss lever, just thought it might help anyone else reading with a similar problem. Haha!

BB7 or Mono trial.

That sounds cool, what would you be doing?

I <3 Boumsong

The best helmet is the one that fits your head comfortably, and is within your budget.

It begins with EBA and ends in Y.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E%3Dmc%C2%B2

You don't look them up, you see the expression, understand that it means you're thick, and then feel offended.

Fool, you don't even understand facial expressions?