So they're old and bullshit?
Has-beens?
Something your parents use, to your embarrassment?
Something no-one in the current generation can stand?
Something you must never admit you like for fear of becoming an outcast?
I strongly doubt it, as tilf-shift lenses are very expensive, you're looking at £1000+ of lens there, or more, and then you'd need to buy a camera body worthy of it. Well, you could do it on a 550d or so, £600?
So £1600+ of kit there.
I understand it's pretty challenging and thus rewarding to do, and it's impressive, but I don't find it in any way exciting.
They're not even naked, for f**k's sake...
On a mod to run a massive chainring means a lot less clearance underneath.
Stock riders have been adopting it because it moves the weight into the middle of the bike, like was mentioned above.
I've got a BB7 on the back of my Dr. Jekyll thing and I'm surprised how well it handles trials. I recommend that.
I think a grind does improve bite over hold. I think with a solid setup and good pads you can see enough hold out of a smooth rim. All the old school riders used to manage on toss pads and smooth rims so it must be possible, lol.
I recommend disc though.
You can do it on photoshop, it simulates some intense depth of field that you usually find when you take pictures of small things.
I can't think of how to do it on PS though, I think you'd have to select everything behind whatever the picture is of, and use lens blur, then select everything that's in front and lens blur the other way.
Something like that
I do believe it isn't.
If you fiddle with the tolerance on magic wand, and deselect contiguous, then it will select all the exact colour everywhere in the picture.
It's not what you're looking for. I recommend the pen tool for accurate selections.
I think that is right.
So you need a protractor or something else that measures angles.
The x by the floor works, but if you measure the angle that your forks make with the floor it will be wrong because forks are at an offset to the steerer tube, so you're better off using the top one.
You could get two pieces of wood screwed together, use this to make the angle with, and then measure it with a protractor away from the bike.
Techically you could use a pair of scissors like that, but they are loose at the pivot so the angle would change before you meaured it.
I don't like the track, but it doesn't sound badly made.
So that's a good thing, really.
You're not too bad at this. Certainly better than I was, lol. Keep it up!
Lol, squash it back maybe.
If you get a headset with super-deep cups, it will resist against creaking and play there.
Alternatives include getting someone with a jig to cut it apart and put a new headset in there.
I used to not like wearing my helmet because it was heavy.
So I'd only wear it when I was actually riding, and take it off if I wasn't doing tricks or stuff.
Then I bought a MET kaos or whatever it's called, and it is dead light, so I leave it on.
So the moral of the story is, get a helmet that weighs 200g, and you'll never notice it.