dave33

It's just what many people used to do before you could buy rims with holes, hole saw is probably the best way. Don't go more than 2 1/3s of the inner width of the rim as a general guide

Why not

They are just trying the simplify it All I know is I can only use blue colour coolant in my car because red will corrode the internals. Of course if you don't trust me you can go right ahead and fill your 2011 magura with antifreeze or screen wash This is where I just read about the difference Coolant and antifreeze is a topic we are asked about on a regular basis, and often causes confusion; types, colours, service life etc. Perhaps the most frequent cause of confusion is what the difference between anti-freeze or coolant is. Basically, they’re the same product (although the term “coolant” could just be applied to plain water; see below!) To help clear some of the confusion up on the more technical details of antifreeze and coolants we enlisted the help of Martyn Mann – Technical Director, Millers Oils UK - who has provided the information below. Not all antifreeze / coolant is the same! Coolant can be plain water; water is a very effective coolant but would not protect against sub freezing temperatures or protect against corrosion inside the engine. The use of antifreeze protects against both problems. Antifreeze not only suppresses the freezing point of your engine coolant, but provides good corrosion protection and increases the boiling point during use. Most commercial antifreeze formulations include a glycol (to suppress the freezing point and raise the boiling point), corrosion inhibiting compounds and a coloured dye (commonly orange, green, red, or blue fluorescent) to aid in identification. A 1:1 dilution with water is usually used, resulting in a freezing point in the range of minus 37 °C to minus 42 °C, depending on the formulation. There are two basic types of coolant available today dependent on the corrosion inhibitors used: ·inorganic additive technology (IAT) ·organic additive technology (OAT) Inorganic Additive Technology This is the traditional coolant based on inorganic additives and is called inorganic additive technology (IAT). It is a tried and proven chemistry that provides a fast acting protective film. The additives deplete and the coolant needs to be drained and replenished every couple of years. This type can be used on all mixed metal engines with components including steel, cast iron, copper, brass, aluminium and solder without any detrimental effect. Organic Acid Technology The newer OAT coolants work differently than the older silicate based IAT coolants. Aluminium and ferrous metals form a surface-layer of corrosion in the presence of moisture, even with the little bit of moisture in the air. OAT coolants prevent this metal-oxide layer that protects the surface against this corrosion. Inherent with their design, the OAT coolants last longer than the older traditional IAT coolants. This category of antifreeze cannot be used in systems containing yellow metals. A couple of questions and answers. Why are coolants different colours? Coolants/antifreezes are coloured so you can visually see them; colour intensity can be an indication of over dilution. The different colours are non specific to the different types of antifreeze. The manufacturer can dye the product any colour they want. The colour is no guide to the actual type of antifreeze type and the label should be read before use.

Actually just read about some anti freeze and coolant, they provide lubrication and prevent corrosion but to ferrous and non ferrous metals. Not plastics and rubber. But it's ethylene glycol that's added to stop it freezing, I think this is the stuff that eats some types of plastics and rubbers.

I think your getting mixed up with coolant and anti freeze, anti freeze is very corrosive just try putting some on a painted surface. I think its ethylene glycol that's the corrosive bit. Don't put screen wash or anti freeze in the 2011 brakes, they will leak if you do. I think it eats away the lever body. The older ones can withstand it better though

That's not a hook to me, and practicing that make it even harder to do proper hooks. You need to pedal the front wheel up rather than just wrench the bars up at the last minute

It seems every one is going on about grip but your all forgetting you need protection when you bail to avoid hurting yourself.

Depends what ti bb your looking at? They are ok if your smooth

I don't really know what it is, maybe he's just too good, and can flip, spin what ever at will? The only thing I found interesting was the front wheel manual. Just not my cup of tea, like in evolve etc I used to ff the skate park bits, so many times until the tape got f**ked lol

You seem to have a really high bb like 69-70mm and your bars don't look that high, iv always found if you raise the bb you need to raise your bars

What's your budget ? 5tens are probly the best for all round grip, protection and value for money

Where in Cardiff are you planning to ride as its pretty crap really

That was awesome, last line was my favorite

That bored me to death, watched it to the end thinking it's gonna get good any second but no it never came

Still mad as ever

I'm in got some gas to blow up already

It says undo the nut until 3 threads are showing, try and undo it just enought until fluid can pass

i think you would have to drive and take the ferry or channel tunnel

Ha ha yea that's my old frame

Took me a month so you will be good, unless you crash into some rocks

Echo tr rims give amazing brake with pretty much any pads though

Nice, cool to see how much trials has progressed Where are those rocks?

That rim don't work well with them pads prob

Well said. Topic closed

Do t be silly now, there are loads of different grades Of carbon fibre