Pashley26

Not serious.

Sure it isn't the washers for your drop links?

I care. Post more, I love your car.

*somebody says something negative about Jardo* "Quick, like it just because he's a fanny even though I don't say anything myself."

Cool story bro.

Works on the feeds from the coil packs, you tell it what rpm and when the cut in signals gets to the right RPM it lights up like a Christmas tree.

S3's are total turd IMO, I have always disliked them. If you want a 4WD, buy a 4WD. If you want a performance hatch back, buy a performance hatchback. An S3 is a poor excuse for a performance hatchback and a poor excuse for an AWD system. All round it is one of the worst of each of its fields, but is strangely one of the only AWD "performance" hatchbacks. LCR every time...until you get to 300bhp, then you can have a decent comparison. Also Seamons, apart from the Brembos the S3 shares the same quick rack, hubs, lower arms etc as your LCR. It is only sportier by visual design (arguable), and being lighter.

Sat waiting for Rainbizzle on the Moors so we can give his Leon a hit with the lowering stick. I have decided I can't be arsed to help, so I am going to polish my car and change the MAP sensor instead haha.

You say it like it's a bad thing, I love it

I got an email back from a local dealer last night, and I am going to look at an immaculate EK9 tomorrow morning.

Its faster from a start or above 90mph. Not sure on the gearing, but his R32 is 290bhp so the power to weight is equal. I know which I'd rather have Seamons Leon will be MUCH quicker than an R33 unless it has many many mods.

R33 would be beast. I dream of owning a 500bhp+ R32 GTR. www.prayfrjapan.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/0808_sccp_03_z+r32_nissan_skyline_gt-r+left_rear_angle.jpg There is a grey one in Plymouth that haunts me, I tried to race him once at motorway speeds and he utterly ruined me. The difference in pace of a tuned 6 cylinder at higher speeds is unexplainable give the similar torque and power to weight, I see it about all the time and we always have a play. I've had him a couple of times at lower speeds, but only when he's let me and it's been dry. I saw him at a meet once, he took me out in it and the 6 cylinder growl is so addictive. Do it Seamons...Doooo it....

LameC***tyRubbish. Sorry to hear it was a waste Tic, you will have much more hassle finding the same quality of LCR as you did your LC. It will be a tough search

f**k knows. But it makes me LOL that you, Prawn and myself know better than a design committee on one of the widest used suspension platforms in the world. Something as simple as that is the easiest way to justify the idiots who say 'if the car could be better VAG would have mad it that way' about remaps.

And best by far. Removes the issue and improves the design rather than just moving the offending item out of the way.

The ones GSF sell "Lemforder" are £14 a side and bearing are £9 the pair.

In short you have been very lucky to be in positive equity. Did you put in a reasonable sized deposit at the start? Ususally vehicles depreciate at a higher rate than their finance is paid off. If you had an over lapping period of the next two years of your finance where the vehicle is currently worth say £6000 now and you owe £5000, it makes no difference to pay £208 a month for 24 months and then trade the car in for £5000; because you have paid that £5000 over the last two years. In short, if you are in equity now with two years left then get rid whilst the deal is good. This is usually the reason why I sell PCP over HP; people ususally pay the extra two years of payments and then get it back when they trade in. So you are spending out to cash back in at a later date; that money is better kept in your bank or tied up in a car. Usually it doesn't work that way. BMW Z4's depreciate terribly from a trade in perspective, they are a large risk for the dealer as they are an expensive to buy, run, service and insure vehicle. They don't sell too well, private however they hold their value well and command a good £2000 price hike over a trade in. Properly nice cars though. I should think the dealer is very keen to get out of that car, ask to see the log book and have a HPI done in the vehicle to work out when it was purchased. Feel free to email me the reg and I will HPI it for you. I wouldn't recommend a PCP deal on a used car of that value on type; if you do take a PCP deal have it as a security with the mindset of buying the car or handing it back at the end. Unless you put in a very small deposit and pay more monthly the chance of an easy renewal is slim. What's the reg number, age, mileage and cost of the car? I can do you a quote through Santander as a better example.

What Tic says basically. Uses cars are dire right now. The page has shifted and I'm on my phone so give me a second to go back and reply properly.

Because PCP offers a chance for the salesman to sell to you again in three years you will find better interest rates and deposit contributions over a standard HP. To try and steer you into it.

PCP is generally a great idea; if you want a new car. Not so well for a used vehicle but the principle is still the same. You've got 5 year finance which in the nicest possible way is a difficult choice to come out of if you want to keep changing cars, I personally don't recommend 60 month deals simply because everybody gets to the point where you are now and gets bored and wants to change. I presume with your last car it was a monthly payment decision to go for 60m? You must have put in a reasonable deposit to be at break ever/equity at this point, which is great news. Your car has clearly held its money well. PCP works in exactly the way you have described, so your understanding of the scheme is spot on. The advantage of PCP for you would be that if you purchased a £20,000 car and put in a £2000 deposit (for instance) if you paid for it over 5 years you could have had two new cars over 6 years for within a couple of thousand pounds the same amount of money. You're still covered by halves and thirds, as well as full early resettlement rights and the ability to pay a lump sum and reduce monthly payments. PCP shouldn't be used as a way to target a monthly payment, but it should be used to responsibly control your own "trade cycle management" of buying cars. The schemes work best around a 10% deposit of the original retail cost of the vehicle. If you had a £20,000 car and put in a £2000 deposit you could almost be certain of getting more than your initial deposit back; keeping you in a new car for the same monthly payment with only one outlay of deposit. If you took interest rates out of it and had a break down of a £20,000 car, a £2000 deposit and a £7000 final payment your monthly payments would be £305.55. If you did a 60 month HP deal using the same £20,000 car, same £2000 deposit it would be £300 a month. It never works out like that because you have a further two years of interest on a 5 year deal. However with a like for like deposit PCP will always work out cheaper than a 5 year HP as a monthly payment. In the last three months I haven't sold a single used PCP deal, because it is cheaper to buy new. Depending in the age of car you are looking at PCP may not be the best option. Ideally you want something within warranty through the term of the agreement. This month I have sold 41 new cars, 18 of them new PCP deals and 14 of them renewed customers from old PCP deals. Only one was in negative equity because they had done 12000 miles more than they said they would. So the schemes are working well, both for retail customers and dealers.

Seamons or Prawn will know 100%. I can't remember, I think there is one which doesn't fit and there are two sizes.

Thinking about stroking?

item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=130868928914&index=18&nav=SEARCH&nid=14713530641 99.99% certain you could just buy that, use your existing drop links and a bolt and some washers to space the drop link out and it would be a better solution and much cheaper.

I know where there is one for sale. Message Myles 'Mylo' Gault on Facebook. Adjustable Whiteline front ARB for £80. Otherwise the TT setup can be had for £50, and is a much better option. With longer bolts and a pack of washers it bolts straight on and puts the arb well out the way.

I'm looking at a top mounted T3/T4 in 60trim now Robin. I think top mount is the only way to go for you, it removes a lot of the issues associated with big body turbos in confined spaces. The ATP Eliminator GT28 kit looks insane, and the up and downipe setup is only $249 per pipe. Thow an ebay special GT turbo in, a set of injectors, a 4bar pump and reg, a mafless system for you and you've got a fire breathing 300bhp 1.8t with excellent spool up and drivability for less than £750. Are you putting rods in yours Robin? Has it got a K03s yet? You can have my K03s cheap if you want it when it comes off. Could be a good upgrade or a base for a hybrid? - Bit of both Tom, I like to troll because it keeps forums alive. But I also dislike giving sound advice to people who need it to be told my opinion is disregarded because the internet says so. On a Mk4 chassis at the front any more than 60mm will be impossible for him to drive around Hastings without getting annoyed, pot holes and speed bumps galore. That's taking into account his tiny wheels of cause.