Yetiman

Thanks for the replies. I had a bit of a play trying different angles tonight and have found it a lot better at a slightly 'flatter' angle. Nilly have the right compromise now I think. Cheers.... ps: remind me not to drive my left knee into my bars......it is one lot of character building I could do without all part of the fun. Made me determined to pull of the move though.... got there eventually.

Curious of others opinions on what angle/position to rotate your bars? I have tried several positions and still feel a little uncomfortable when balancing off a drop (front wheel below back wheel). Wondering if it is more to do with the stem angle and length. I have low rise Echo bars, 15deg 130mm stem Can't find much info in the search area... hope you guys and gals can help. Cheers

Na, the frame runs vertical dropouts. Rode today and didn't have any slippage since removing the tensioner bracket. Fingers crossed.

Nop, it came as is on the bike. Have read several other posts on differnet forums on using the joining link and most reports rate the strength of the KMC kool joiner link. Might be worth continuing to try now I have sorted the problem at the tensioner. Although the joiner link looks like it would suit a wider chain like a 3'32 or something.... Still think I will get some extra links.

Tried to shorten the chain without the link but I am about half a link off.... went to several LBS today with no luck. So will have to stick with using the link until i can get some half or extra links. Figured out why it seemed to be skipping though; as it rolls through the tensioner it ocassionally catches the metal bracket of the chain tensioner, which 'bucks' the tensioner and starts the ball rolling for the chain to slip.... removed the bracket from the tensioner and all seems ok until the new links arrive. Thanks for the reply.

I have a new KMC Kool 710 chain and the joining link seems exceptional big in its width..... ie: the pins seem much longer than the other links in the chain therefore it has a couple of MM gap on the side between the side plate and the retaining clip. This obviously allows the chain line to run on an angle. Is this normal for this model of chain or have I been given an odd size joining link? Having a few issues with the chain trying to skip and wondering if this may be it. (have read other threads on chain slippage already) Cheers

I had a previous post asking about 'Adamant brakes'. I had never heard of them either. Found out the are legit and a basically the echo rim brakes with Adamant lever blades and 'brand badge' applied to the brakes. Meant to be stronger than Magura HS33 as the body is all cnc'd. Think they may have better quality hyd lines also. Might be worth a try unless I am convinced otherwise that the echo brakes are no good.

Anyone got a generic 'formula' to work out the best stem length and rise for certain body height (5'11) and frame Geo (1080 WBase)? Obviously other than trial and error. Cheers

What would be best to ride and why: a. ZHI Z1 with 35mm BB Rise or b. Echo pure with 18mm BB rise? Also those who where interested, Adamant brakes are indeed based on Echo brakes and meant to be quite ok. Cheers

Yeh, I was not sure I had heard of them and can't find them anywhere on the net. But that is exactly what was written in the specs list. If they are an Echo brake or copy, do you know what the Echo brakes are like? Keen for Maguras but the offer is for 'Adamant brakes'.

Has anyone used Adamant hydraulic brakes? Keen to hear how they compare to Magura HS33's. Also, What is best; ZHI z1 or an Echo pure? Cheers