zoster

i think i found the perfect thing (or almost perfect) in my neighbors basement. i'll post a pic when i'm done!

do you know a more elegant way than zip-ties of fitting the plastic piece on the frame? could some specialized glue work?

marino said he uses carbon steel = ASTM A513. any idea if this is difficult to weld and if i need to have the exact same material for the plate that is going to be welded? i am thinking of reinforcing it, 'cause i think if i bang it again it might be harder to repair..

how would that help ? would it disperse the shock more evenly? how come the frame weakens from welding? thanks

thanks! i'll try the plate thingy if i can find a welder. do i need to know the exact material to tell the welder or is it "plain steel" (if there is such thing..)

i hope you're wrong, 'cause i WOULD like to put a plate there before trying any more sidehops (i'm just learning them, so chanses are this is going to happen again) is this actually gonna help (how? aren't thise flexible?) or is it just a joke..? thanks

hehe

not quite yet, still waiting for a fork from ali c and a new saddle. i should have'em by Wednesday/Thursday but here's a preview if you insist: thanks, i relaxed a bit now that i've seen the replies

nope , not exactly lighly, but the wheel did hit the ledge first, then slipped (rained outside so..) bb is +20 the pait isn;t exactly high quqlity, so it chips of easier.. thanks for all the replies.. i think i'll let it be for now, and see if i can weld something in there to be a bit safer..

sorry, didn't quite understand what you mean, could you rephrase it?

hi..um... i got my marino frame, build up my bike (which btw feels incredibly good to ride, although i just tried it a bit), and on my first (and only) semi-ride, the rear wheel slipped on a sidehop and i hit the left chainstay on the ledge, and made quite a big dent (see pictures). my questions are: 1. would this have happend on a more expensive steel frame (like curtis or lesson) 2. would this have happend on an alu frame? 3. what ca i do about it? i can hammer it back a bit? i can go weld some pieces of metal on that part, like the good boi frame has ... (i am really bummed, since this is a brand new frame and i was so excited about this bike it feels and look great, but...) 4. is there the risk of this frame snapping on me? looking for some input.. thanks!

shaved it down 1 mm or so, and it works ! (118mm bb) chainline is almost perfect.. (it would have been perfect if i had a sprocket that has the teeth plane put sideways and not centered)

i think everyone had at least one. (bike seems a lot lighter in dreams, doesn't it.. )

i think i found the solution. i'll show you tomorrow.

i have the same problem now, but tomorrow i'll take out 1mm (that's all i need) from the bb part that's rubbing the fw

actually i think the "problem" is at the hub, taht makes the sprocket sit too much on the inside, but i understandi t's usual for mod setups.., i just wish i knew it before ordering the frame geo anyway, i managed to put the cranks on a 118 bb, but only without the alu bashring. i still have a gap that could accomodate a bashring , but a narrower one: custom steel one or i could narrow the alu one , but i'm not sure this would be a good idea.. turns out i have to make the bash thinner with 0.8-1mm, although i'm not sure how i'm gonna do that..

Hi! i am building a 24" bike with standard 68 bb shell, ffw and fixed mod hub, and i see that the sprocket on the rear wheel (trialtech hub) is pretty much quite on the inner side, i think a perfect chainline would land on the bb shell... what the hell? (for riming sake) do mods usually have suck crooked chainline??

i do find quite a difference (until i got into tf, i used to write on otn quite a lot), and the people there seem to have a lot more of a cocky / smartass attitude than here.

Hi, is it me, or does observedtrials.net have a large percent of frustrated jocky kids, that feel the need to get social status by acting all macho and hostile..? i mean, i got 2 bad reputation poits for this reply on a thread showing off a 24" marino: "i'm going to build a very similar one in one week time. my marino frame and fork should arrive any day now. also dual vee, also 74 ha. can't wait! oh, yeah, and your bike looks great, and hopefully feels great as well ps: does the fork feel heavy? it should be 1200-1300g i understand" i got "fag" and "24=fail" as comments for the neg reputation... what can be going on in these peoples heads? i don't want to generalize but it seems to happen quite a lot on that forum..

that's what i thought thanks for the replies

you didn't really get my question. should i put spaces even though the booster fits without interfering with the brake without them? (that is v-brake)

hi! i bought a booster to put on my rear v-brake and it came with long bolts ans spacers. does using spacers somehow increase the stiffness, or are they there just in case somehow your v-brake gets in the way of the booster..? thanks

thanks for all the replies! my actual question would be how to flatten the tip of the pin that has been moved around. sstein says you shouldn't , you should just leave it as it is, but i' not so sure

Hi! There are all this topics of quick links vs chain joining, and many say joining the chain is the way to go, but i am a bit skeptic about the pin that's been fooled around by moi to connect the chain. Once back in, I do pound it on the head so that it gets a mushroom shaped tip, but it doesn't seem as sturdy as the tips of the factory made ones, so i'm not so sure if it is actually safer than the quick link (kmc one). But anyway, this isn't a quick link vs chain join thread, this is a thread about how to join your chain properly, considering trials abuse... any take on that? thanks!