zoster

this, in my opinion, is the first street-trials video that is comparable in awe to bmx videos, and i didn't thin this was actually possible. well, it is. so hurray for danny mac!

SHORT VERSION: how can i have a good working front v-brake without it squealing like crazy ? ok, so i decided to have a front vee on my 24" (here's the bike if anyone cares) since i got this bike (not so long ago) i tried different setups. i tried 2 sets of pads, one soft and one hard compound (soft ones are plazmatic, hard ones are some worn down cheapish shimano pads) they both seem to work ok at first , but after a day or two in my uber-dusty city, they lose their hold and glide on the rim. therefore, i scribed them (that's that thing when you make some cuts with an exacto knife on the rim, this kind of thing). i made the cuts about 5mm apart, do not that tight. anyway. now the pads (both pairs) hold like crazy in pretty much any position, BUT (and this is a big hairy but) they squeal like hell !! i tried all sorts of positioning possible ( flat, toe-in , reverse toe-in ) the only setup that worked ( = didn't make a hell of a noise) was with the hard compound pads mounted with a severe toe-in (that's when they look like this / RIM \ ). it's ok for slowing me down when going at jogging speed, at higher speeds it also squeals. the problem is it doesn't hold too good for trials use. does anyone know a magic setup that has decent hold and no noise involved ? thanks for reading!

i'll try this. i was actually thinking of tent hooks, but thought they were too flimsy. didn;t know about the garden hooks.. the other suggestions don't really work, since the position of the obstacles changes, plus i can't have stuff sticking out of the ground when i am not using this obstacles, so that my family has something to stumble upon, and also 2 of these obstacles can be ridden on more then 1 face. thanks for the replies!

Hi, i have a few home-made obstacles on my countryside residence, and on the earth and grass terrain it's really hard to find stable positions for them (even with wood boards used as spacers). any idea how i could make them more stable (considering i tend to move them in different configurations, so they don't have fixed positions)? thanks!

i bought from evans cycles one recenly and the dumbasses sent me a bmx handlebar instead.. i got the seat eventually but took 2 more weeks, so boo for evans, but maybe you're luckier.. and also, here it is o my bike. a bit too "erected" but within ok limits. (seattube angle is 71)

i tried on the rear: maxxis holy roller, kenda k-rad and dmr moto digger. the last one is by far the best

i'd wish.. EDIT: am i dumbass.. i thought rowan atkinson is the guy that has the name "manuel" on this forum.. forgot about mr bean..

kids, if you want to get laid, don't make this face when you bunnyhop..

i haven't tried it too much, but it seems great so far for trials. it's really stable on the back. i don't know how to do really advanced moves like gaps to front, so i can't really give you an expert opinion but for intermediate drops and gaps and the basic stuff if works great. the handlebars feel good. they have quite the upsweep, but i don't mind that. might actually be a good ting.

sorry for the late reply, was away for a week.. not quite, more bmx-ey. see the description on the top for geo you have to put some threadlock or something, otherwise, they tend to unscrew from all the vibrations and stuff. yep, works for me. (i'm 1.70m tall if it matters) THANKS for all the replies

on the front they squealed like hell when new. i put some dirt on and they became great (no noise, and good enough modulation with plenty lock). they started squealing again after 1-2 days of riding, so i put some dirt again. hopefully they will bed in somehow and stop squealing without messing around with them.

they hold really well, but are soft compound and add some elasticity

spec: marino frame (if you are wondering what i have on my left chainstay, it is a "missed sidehop guard", read about it here ) (weight 2570) (btw, i twlked to marino and he said he can build the kind of seattube end that can accomodate pivotal seats directly , like this. this was after i already had the frame, but just so you know in case you are thinking of making an order ) pashley fork (belonged to ali c) azonic 2.5" rise bars dmr stem (a bit too bulky, i know, but it had the right geo and was fairly cheap) avid ultimates with cheap transparent pads ( thread about vee pads ), cheap booster (modified to fit the 95mm mount distance) front wheel: echo hub , rhyno lite rim, k-rad tire rear wheel: trialtech rim and hub, dmr moto digger 24" tire-best tire i had! czar cranks and zoo bash (mounted inside-out). they're sparkly because they were sandblasted (bought them cheap from selectbikes but had funky colors) managed to get a decent chainline by using a 118mm bb (read about it here) eclat complex padded saddle (214g they say.. but no adjustment for angle, therefore it sits a bit too on the back for my taste, but that's that) GEO: wb 1015 , cs 370, bb+20 , ha 74, sa 71, 120 ht length WEIGHT: 11.2 kg PRICE: about 650 gbp that's about it. it rides great! reversed tugs: link to marinos pics of building process BONUS: my lady-like commuting bike : best part about this bike is the price (sh bike + a few new parts = 45gbp )

it's easier to lack the competing instinct (that guys usually have) in bmx because it is a more creative sport, therefore everybody has his own style, so when somebody gets a higher place then you in a comp, you can say that he was just more impressive over all but you can do stuff that he can't, and vice-versa, so you're running on different tracks. trials is more pragmatic. you either put the foot down or don't. you can't really say "yeah, he didn't dab, but i was as elegant as a gazelle when i did that gap"

i was also wondering why 24" street-trials is unfortunately quite far away from the stuff bmx-ers do (pro ones i mean). Don't get me wrong, i love 24" street-trials, i think it's great to be able to combine both worlds, and it's amazing the stuff that they do, but looking at the pros in street-trials and comparing their street moves with the ones of pro bmx-ers, there is quite a difference in amplitude, complexity, flow.. what i am wondering is if the limitation is due to the bike, meaning on a 24" street-trials bike, you can't really go much further in terms of bmx-like moves, or is it the riders, considering (and i might be wrong), that sponsored pro bmx riders, are a lot more .. how should i put this...implicated in riding. i mean it in the sense that they don't really do much else, except practicing all day, where as guys like danny mac maybe have other stuff to do, like a job, or collage or something, and they just ride as much as they can in their spare time. but again, i might be wrong about both "parties".

that's interesting, considering there are like three 24" street trials bikes in all romania as far as i know of ..

thanks for the replies! syntace ones i guess are these ones http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=1574 http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails...?productID=9256 (pretty cool option, thanks ali)

i found a suitable stem for my setup, but i was just wondering about these adjustable ones.. thanks for all the replies!

eclat complex 2 paddes saddle is 214g, unpadded is less. (cheaper and way better looking and feeling)

just wondering, if there are on the market adjustable stems (the ones that allow you to change the angle) that can take trials abuse...

the one in the pic is done by marino, but i changed it to a pashley. i will post a bike spec and pics as soon as i have it complete (i'm still waiting for a saddle from evanscycles, since they sent me a bmx handlebar instead of the saddle... :| )

thanks! czar (sanblasted + clear coat)

the raw version with black rear end was the best it had, except black, "the ultimate classic"..

ok, so first i wanted to put a plestic tube piece there, but after Mike W replied, i changed my mind a made an alloy piece from a seatpost rest (lucky me, the inner diameter of the seatpost was the same as the outer diameter of the chainstay). i forgot to take a picture of the modeled alloy piece, so there's only a pic of what remained of the seatpost segment. the outer is made out of some special tape a guy at a lbs uses as rim tape. If it rips easily, i'll find another solution, but for now it was easy to put on and looks decent. (the metal piece is also bound to the frame with double sided adhesive tape). cheers to everyone for your support! it was very helpful! let me know what you think..

i lose too much energy on trackstand. i'm hopping like a gorilla, even though i'm not actually at a beginner phase.. edit: oh! and front pogos, when i lean enough i can do them quite well, but usually i'm afraid of going too far over the bars