zoster

it stretches, doesn't it..?

what happens when the chain gets loose? get another slammer? (they are fixed spacers, right?)

hi i am building a new frame from marino - a 24"er with horizontal drop-outs and mod spacing. i read threads about snail cams and chain tugs and both seem sketchy. what's the optimum solution? what do modern bmx bikes use for instance? i see on danscomp they have quite a range of chain tugs http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=P...ChainTensioners , but i'm not sure all use chain tugs some say "Designed for new style of frames with short dropouts" . i couldn't find out what that means.. since it is a custom frame, i can ask for some special design (not too complicated though) maybe something that isn't as popular as chain tugs or snail cams but works better..

did you have any problems with the thread of the alloy backings? my friend stripped one recently from a heatsink pad

thanks for the posts let me get one thing straight- "plazmatics" are all trials pads, right? or is it a firm? what do you say about the default avid pads for the front? also, do you think the inspired pads are different from the v-fly pads? (they look the same)

yes, this is what actually happens, but i have my elbow straight because i shift my butt backwards before i pull on the handlebars. isn't this normal?

hi there i'll have a new 24" bike soon, and i want to put v-brakes on both front and rear (don't ask me why, this is another discussion ) which pads would you recommend for front, so that it has a bit of modulation, but can also lock the wheel and which would you recommend for the back (more lock than modulation) i would like to avoid grinding , so let me know what works best FOR SMOOTH RIMS. (i might use some tar on the back if desperate) thanks a lot!

made out of brake adapter (it works like a charm): here are other two versions: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....l=diy+tensioner

hi each time i do a revert from rolling backwards (with or without using the brake) , my left arm gets stretched and hurts afterwards (i spin to the right). any idea how i could avoid this? (i use a 24" bike with 72cm handlebars) thanks

i admit this was a stupid concirn. i did hit the tyre with my toes a few times but that was on a different setup and i wasn't sitting right on the pedals (and even so, the brake would be impossible to hit). what about the route of the housing in case of a v-brake? is there a better option then this ?

ok, thanks for letting me know!

Hey, i was wondering if there is any other reason for putting the rim brake mounts so that they face backwards on the fork, other than looks. Aren't they easier to hit with the tip of your toe this way? Just a curiosity, thanks

hey, thanks for all your replys! unfortunately i didn't got the chance to adjust it, 'cause i just smashed the lever on the rail of a quarterpipe and now i got to rebuild the lever and most probably rebleed the brake (damn these complicated hydraulic brakes). the lever was hit outwards, or otherwise said, away from the handlebar ,and the piston thingie was pulled out (not all the way, but still, it didn't return to it's normal position).

Hi there! Today i installed my brand new 2008 Hope Mono disc brake on the rear of my 24". After spending a lot of time testing around with the different washers, i managed to make the caliper sit almost perfectly centered on the rotor. Next, according to the instructions it came with, i slowly pressed the lever. The pads moved inward pretty much at the same rate but one of them hit the disk just a bit sooner than the other one, so (as the instructions said), i tried to keep the rotor in place until the other one hit the rotor as well. When i released the lever, the inward pad retracted so that it disappeared in the caliper body, but the outer one pretty much stood in place and kept tension on the rotor. i pressed the lever again a few times while keeping the rotor steady, but nothing changed. It seems the pads don't want the disc to be centered on the caliper, so i rearranged the caliper so that the disc sits equally distanced from the two pads, but this way the caliper is really off center with the disc. The disc almost touches the body of the caliper. Also, the pads don't retract much, the are really close to the disc (less than 1mm each), and the disc which is just a a little untrue, touches the pads slightly. Have i done something wrong in the process? Is there a way to improve the situation? Help would be greatly appreciated! thanks for reading! Z

thanks to all for the kind words That is a BikePositive stem. It is a Hungarian firm that makes fairly cheap and fairly good products (depends on what exactly you buy from them).

here is a variant. this one doesn't need a hole in the frame. it just rests on it. (adapter is avid rear 185)

i just saw that the description is the same on the hope mono trial 08 brake . i thought those improvements were between the tarty edition and the regular mono brake, not between '08 and '07 hope models.. anyways.. does it overheat in trials? i guess i use the brake as much as any usual rider.. meaning i don't try to use the brake less than i feel like, in order to be smoother.. thanks, mate, but just the first one is mine

Hey! anybody used one of these?: the tarty version of the hope trials disc brake? the description sounds great, but marketing's a bitch, so i'd like to know from someone that has actually tried it. I need a BETTER disc brake for the rear of my 24" ( my bike ), and it seems this would be the best there is on the market, when it comes to discs. If You recommend it, what rotor size would you put on a 24"? is 180 enough? Also, are the pads/disc that come with it satisfying, or will i have to upgrade those as well? hope you can help! thanks!

it's a 7", but nevermind the brake, i'm interested in disc pads compound comparisons (used on the rear). EDIT: ok, i give in, if i buy a hope trials brake, will it all be rainbows and sunshine?

howdy ho i've got an avid code brake on the rear, with the default pads (avid organics) and i'm not quite satisfied with it. i see faststop makes a2z's for code..., goodridge , koolstop and maybe others have compatible pads.. Any recommendations ? thanks a lot!

thanks for the info

impressive stuff! what rear brake are you using?

yep, same position (i fine tune it with washers between the adapter and the braze-on piece, since it was too complicated to make an elongated hole in the metal plate that bolts to the frame). i have to take out at least one bolt to take the wheel out, but i repair my flats with the wheel on, so it's not really an issue

thanks mate! no, i can't... tried it, but the chain is too slack for that setup, and if i take a link out it becomes too short

around 220 euro, incl shipping. but be wary that ordering from mielec is a lottery. the guys at mielec aren't the most professional guys around, and they tend to screw up more or less the geo, put the mounts in the wrong places, and they can make you wait a loong time (otherwise, the frames are strong)