zoster

fine.. i'll post mine also..

don't really see the use unless you change between one and the other oftenly (maybe for urban/natty), which would be kind of weird since the cs length would modify unless you changed the chain as well each time..

mmm, i like the bolts on the viz ones but if you say trialtech, than trialtech it is. (what's with the double thread? in case one end strips? on the trialtech i mean)

Hi all! I'm looking for a mod rear fixed hub, and i won't pay more than 50gbp for it (it's a FIXED hub for zulu's sake!) so my options would be (sealed bearings is a must): 1) viz 2) trialtech 3) or a track hub. i'm not sure about these ones. not sure if they come in 32H (for my future trialtech rim), not sure if they are necessarily heavier than trials ones, not sure if they are all 14mm axle (that's not really an issue since i'm building a custom frame), not sure the thread is the same for trials sprockets (not really necessary as long as i can find a 14T one to fit, not sure if these would have steel threads instead of alloy (this would be an advantage i guess) one more thing. stripping threads on fixed hubs/ cranks is really an issue? does it happen often? (i'm not a hardcore rider so probably i won't have a problem with this, whichever hub/cranks i'd buy, but for my curiosity..) thanks for reading! Z

WOO, what's with the worm on the front of your bike? isn't that like 1500g or something? don't you make me second guess now! : ) i made up my mind and i am getting a trialtech rim. don't know if drilled or not though

wait 'til i build up my steel bmx-ey 24" !! )

Hi! i'll soon have a 24" bike with marino frame and fork (steel), and v-brakes both front and back, and mod hub spacing. I don't know whether i should run the freewheel on the cranks or on the hub. I like the look of having it on the cranks better but i don't know how much will the spinning chain eat from my momentum, and if the weight center won't be too forward. any input? thanks

i know this thread is a bit old, but instead of making a new one... i want to ask if drilled rims go untrue easier. i want to get a trialtech 24" rim and i will be using rim brakes.. btw, does anyone know what's the weight on the non-drilled ones? thanks

i'd LOVE some dx32's, but i can't seem to find them in europe, only in the states.. about the front rim. i see many guys use quite wide ones (same width as on the back), but something around 30mm should be enough i reckon, nu?

e-mail sent, waiting for answer..

this would help: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=129855

not sure yet. got an offer? you think these ones are the same as the transparent ones you mentioned before: http://bikezone.ro/produs-saboti_placute_s...l?id_produs=514 (they are really cheap - 7quid for two sets)

ok, back to rims.. for the record, here are some options for the front (31-36mm wide): http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26277 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26265 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26270 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26273 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26274 http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...;category_id=43 and for the back, the 24-bicycles have the Y.M.I.A.B. v-brake rim which is 42mm wide, which sounds good..

goodie! waiting to hear from you.. (any idea what's the weight on the ashton ones? are they alu or steel?)

i'll try to find the ashton forks but chances don't look good ( searched on this forum and on ebay and no luck ) maybe this is a solution? (+ a 4-bolt fork, obviously) edit: maybe not.. this is for some specific frame, not for hs33s

Hi! i am looking for a fork (be it steel or aluminium) with vee mounts for 24" wheels i don't really want to pay more than 60 quid options i thought of: 1. order from marino a fork (i am ordering a frame anyways). i think is really strong and looks good as well LINK drawback - it's quite heavy, about 1200g 2. buying a used pashley fork and weld some v-mounts on it. weight - 1000g. drawback - don't really like the ballerina looks of it + it's a bit of a hassle ANY OTHER OPTIONS? what would you suggest i'd go for? thanks for the input! Z

i did check that out before i posted, and indeed it would be great for the front, but i didn't seem to find it for sale (i'm from romania so there are restrictions.., but i didn't look much for it yet)

theanks for all the answers! now what would you suggest for the front? 38 as well or narrower (i'd think a 32 or 34 would be proper but might be hard to find)

INTERESTING STUFF!

i can't see how i answered my own question.. i was saying that a wider rim doesn't really mean more tire drag anyway, if you all say 38 is ok, then i guess is ok, but i stii don't know why it is better then a 47 one...

Hi! I am buiding a new custom frame at marino, and i must decide what distance between the v-mounts i want, therefore i must decide how wide i want my rim on the back. What would be the advanteges of a narrower rim? (a 38mm one) If it's about tire roll, i don't think tire roll is really an issue if you keep the tube on a wide rim at a fairly high pressure (how i like it). thanks

the closest thing (that i can do on my frame) to this: is something similar to this: you think it's worth the hassle ? does it seem more reliable than chain tugs or snail cams?

come to think of it, the pain is in the lower arm, not in the elbow, but it's probably the same reason 180 on the rear wheel from riding in fakie

the most common one i guess, so 10mm. you recommend otherwise?

i'll buy a new chain ones my frame comes in, but isn't it the general idea that the chain stretches, and then you adjust the chain tension for it to be proper and still run it a while? there was a thread where a guy managed to get on vertical dropouts a good chain tension without using a tensioner, and everybody advised him to get a tensioner because the chain stretches in time, so i guess the rule isn't get a new chain as soon as your chain stretches a bit..?