Skorp

I know.. Thats not what im asking for. The headset he uses is a Echo SL. You can tighthen them ALOT before they get harder to steer. So i guess somthing like 5nm torque on the bolt is ok. Then everything is tightly fitted. The stem, headcap, stackers, bearings and crowns are compressed allittle. My guess is you could easily torque the bolt to 15-20nm withouth notice any differance on the steering itself. Altough, the difference in linear force the headset bolt makes on the steerertube would be huge compared to 5nm, and would make it snap alot easier... thats my theory atleast.

Why not Ash- kennard? The headset tension bolt is actually pulling the steerertube with quite alot of force..I think thats the difference from having a SL fork for 2 months or 2years

Hey i have personally never broken any forks, but last month a friend of mine broke his SL at the steerer crown. I thought that it was purely because the Sl's beeing light..But i have thought abit about this. The ride before, his headset was really loose. So i tighten it alot. Way more than needed, but the steering was still smooth. Could this be the reason his forks broke? Could this be the reason to many fork failures?

hmm. Might be a bit on the long side. I'm really not shure what i want, as i have never really ridden a trials bike normal before.. i guess thats why i ask here.. i didn't use the seat that much on my Koxx racingcode.But had a monty 219 with a ridicoulus long seatpost.. could wheelie that thing for ever Somthing like 1060wb, 72ha, 375cs and 5+ bb, and 16" seatube at 71* or somthing. that would make the trials geo good, and some space for tucking.. Also the seattube angle would make it feel longer when sitting on it

its no problems to drive without powersteering on a 750kg car with 165 tyres.. Rwd isn't that important. You need lots of horsepower for it to be really fun

Ah thats lovly.. Love that it dont have those all thos 90's stuff looks soo much cleaner (doors and bumpers i guess)

Hey let's talk about XC bikes with trials geo Anyways, my golf for the lot.

hehe,thanks for offtopic I guess it was the same engine as mine? 2.2 inline five with turbo? the 2.6 was not deliverd on the 200 chassie. Only came on the later c4 100/a6 chassie The golf is in good condition..but it will rust too fast if i drive it daily. I do really not want any parking dents or scratches on that car either.. Going to do some work on the engine so it can keep up with the Autoslalom guys too, then it will not fit as a daily driver Make myself a intake, exhaust, mount four mikuni carbs etc. Just for the experience, as the 1.1L engine wount really tune that well without heavy mods.

Offcourse... its like your saying to somone who wants to start up with trials " you don't need a trial specific bike at all, what you really need is a 40£ 20" kids bike from WalMart. You can do trials moves on that too." The frame i got now is really long.. and feels even longer because of steep head angle. Also the chainstay is ridicoulus long and the bb is low. Its like a 26" road bike. Most decent MTB's in norway are never really used offroad..they are only used on fast gravel roads. This frame is made for axactly that. NOT to ride over anything bigger than a pothole. But yeah.. i understand what you meen. I had a Cyclocross bike some summers ago, as the trials rider i am, i ended up doing sidehops and pedal ups on it. My mums shop cruiser broke during a drop too.. the frame and rear wheel collapsed when i was on my way to school.

Nice bike! The size didn't really look that bad. altough, im thinking about to use this more as a mtb and schoolbike than a trials bike. This is not going to be a ridable trials frame! I already have a 24" street, and a proper trials bike. I also have my Koxx Racingcode i could put together if i wanted somthing like that.

yeah, that's way to small in my eyes.. i have a Koxx Racingcode frame, but the previous owner cut of where you tighten the seattube.. so only a wedge can fit I think the geo on that is around what i want, except the wb is 1040.. and the size of the frame is like 14" I would have to check some sizes before i order.. im not really shure what i need

Hi I'm starting at school again this summer. I can't really afford a car that i want, and have low maintenance cost.Even if i had a good car i would need to meet 1hour early to get a parking spot ( i have a MK1 Golf and a Audi 200 20vt, the golf is just old and it could easily not start one morning.. and with the audi, only the fuelprice for driving to school would be more than taking the buss)...So i will try biking. Since the road to the school is pretty fun and only takes around 10-15min to the school and 20home.I do also have several good paths to choose from. I have been gathering parts from some friends garage to build myself a school bike. Altough the frame i got, is a gravel racer framme. I would really love to have somthing more fun. So what are the options? I'm considering to order a marino with a oldschool trials geometry, only with a 17-20" seattube! Spec ive got so far is pretty good for a almost free bike.. Shimano SLX cranck with one 36T cog, Mavic Crossride wheels, Echo Urban fork, Onza 20*75mm stem, Born Carbon handlebar, Sram X-9 rear gears, some continental tyres, Formula K18 brakes on SLX rotors, . The frame is a norwegian brand. HardRocx somthing, weighs nothing but have a really low crank and are wuite long. The geometry i'm thinking to do is 1100wb, 385cs, 72ha and 0bb. i have not made up my mind about The seattube angle and seattube length. But i guess somthing like 74-73 would be ok, and maybe a 17-18" frame.. So that it could be used for actual biking, and i could put down my seat and do some small trialsin. Whats your thoughts? Does anyone really oldschool remember some geos from back in the days where small Xc bikes where the best for trials?

I do also find this strange. I would really just drop it.. i guess this guys friends would be atleast 10years older than you. If a 14 y/o kid who had no relations to my friend, contacted me about making a memorial ride just for the fun of it i wouldn't be happy about it at all. Just try to gather some people for a normal group ride in Stockholm.

i have always thought that the split link is as strong as the chain.. why should they make a chain that can hold 1400kg, and send a split link in the package that holds ex 800kg? Altough, after some years riding...its always the split link that breaks. So on my last chains, i just use the chain cutter to insert the pin again, and "lock" it by hammering the pin on the ends. To make a mushroom as said earlier in this thread.

6 years thread dig! Must be a record! Love the Marc Caisso frames..Don't think there are many around now a days!

Why would you?

These: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=64862 These: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=37724 OR these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=64862

Looks solid. Bet it rides good with 10+ bb!

Use CRC BrakCleen when its dirty. I have one in my car to use when the bike gets road dust on it. or to use when i ride on dry dirt. If you have oil on your pads or disc, you have to cook them. I normally use a metal plate and a torch. Cook it until it doesn't smoke anymore. You can also use a cooking plate.

Doesn't work that way Everything is soo much easier on a light bike, its really not much before you can notice a difference! Probably 90% placebo, but hey, that works too.. Altough, to drill the sidewall is abit stupid in my eyes. Loose to much strength compared to how much weight you loose Just use one of those ( don't know what its called in English) To get all the holes equally spaced. take a small drill first, then a bigger and not drilling more than half trought to get the Onza drilled wall effect. You dont need to clamp it when drilling.

Haha, think i deserve this for making a stupid topic its a 26" i guess the coolest ratio wold be 14-12.. probably the only one in the world using somthing like that

Hi I'm building a new bike, and im going to use middleburns and a chris king at the back. I'm considering to use 16-13 or 18-15.. How do you guys think it is to ride with 16-13? I have only had 18-15 before, but i have tried 16-13 and it felt strange. Had a spongy feeling to it compared to bigger cogs. I have also tried 22-18 and that feels solid compared to 18-15. EDIT: I'm thinking abouth the feeling and not the gear ratio, as all the ratios above is quite similar.

yeap.. i think its pronounced "Lena" ? Weighed it last week aswell.. 9.4kg.. Feels alot lighter than that tough

Same. Feel that Ozonys/Bonz have the best range out there today.

The frame is stiff. Never had any booster on My broke bashring My New bashring