Captain Scarlet

None in the till at work. Need another get rich quick scheme.

BMX's are 20".

I'm off on Saturday so may pop down.

Christ didn't realise you was that old...happy birthday man!

Cheers for the head up Joe. Crikey how much of a pillock do I feel... :$

Best video ever? Its like 4 years old but his power and control is mental! Youtube Video -> ">" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

Place it on a smooth flat surface (work bench or whatever), have a cloth to protect against any noticeable impacts from the mallet you are about to whack it flat with.

I'm glad you know what you're doing and listened to my experiences. sarcasm

This applies for the majority of the forum, if you don't know how to edit well then why do you need to? Lets face it, if your video is just for us faces on the forum we want to see you ride. I've said it many times, simplicity is the key. Don't go over the top on angles, close-ups, slowing clips down, just get it together so it flows. If anyone is impressed by a certain clip in the video, they will rewind and watch it again, videos need to be simple and to the point, I personally can't stand watching videos that have a 30 second long intro. Look at the highly popular Danny Mac video, you will notice that first there is a lot of variety in different moves, but editing wise it is usually clip after clip of riding (with the odd cut away to provide a break from the viewer watching just riding, but that is acceptable with a video that well made and of such high skill). You've got to think, what are people going to watch, make it as simple as possible, I started playing your example and didn't bother watching it because of the long intro.

Good lad! The young ones certainly aren't afraid to progress. Keep with it buddy!

Ah well its a degree whatever happens, it can't be paid back until I'm earning £15,000 or more a year, and if I move into a different career then future employers will see it as a willingness to learn.

Look at how many girls have their ears pierced. I think you must have a better threshold of pain than them.

No. Your wrong, and the people you know are wrong. Every time you stretch you are physical tearing your ear (when done properly this makes very small micro tears), of course as with any hole in the skin your body naturally wants to heal it. The reason why it is recommended to wait a month is that is roughly how long it takes for this tear to repair, think of it as a cut on your body; it bleeds, scabs over, after a few weeks/month the scab eventually disappears and the skin is normal again. However if you interrupt the healing process by putting in a larger taper or pushing more through, it breaks the healing of what is pretty much a scab inside your ear, and what happens when you pick away a scab....of course... you get a scar. Common fact, scar tissue doesn't stretch or reflex so good like getting your normal ear back. I bet if you took the tunnel out you would see a series of fine lines on red raw tissue.

Providing I sell my current frame I'll go for one. Any photos of the final colour scheme on the Limey 320 (like the name, people always thought I was talking of the stock when I said 3). Also a weight perhaps?

Have a word with Jonny Jones (on here and the usual social network site), he has worked with some reputable companies so I would imagine he would be able to give some good words of advice. I too am interested in cinematography (although rather more on the TV side of things), currently in college then going to go for a broadcast TV coruse at one of the specialist universities.

Pics or it didn't happen. Sounds ridiculous if it is the way it works, for all they know you could be a complete recluse and therefore no life experience at all.

I was talking lips, definitely won't be stretching it, its ridiculous and pointless with a lip. As said your an idiot, to get to that size ear it should take about 9-10 months from originally having it pierced.

Also I saw that Scott brought up this talk of 1.2mm or 1.6mm, any reasons for one size or the other?

Shrinking lobes back down all depends how well you stretched it in the first place. If it bled a lot (shouldn't bleed at all), then you can be damn certain it will be a bitch to shrink (as obviously it forms scar tissue which will just lose the skins natural elasticity). Other thing to remember is don't take it out and leave nothing in the hole, as your ear has no shape to form to, to take it down in size you need to basically reverse the process of making it big (go down one taper size, leave it for a month, smaller taper, repeat). Pretty much everyone gets smaller and goes back to some extent, when I take mine out the hole shrinks to about half the size (as ultimate all the skin wants to naturally do it close), you might be left with a 5mm hole but your earlobe shape will look a lot more normal. I've got an 18mm and 12mm, really thinking 18mm is my personal limit now as everyone notices it (the amount of times I had to explain stretching to random people at a party recently), although there is a part of me that wants 20mm. Definitely get them both to the same size, then decide from there. Really want a labret/lip piercing, parents are a real no-no on it (they were on tunnels but that's easily hidden at first), I understand there are clear retainers available to hide them (which would be good for work too) only problem is how long before I can change the standard piercing for a clear one? I understand that it needs to heal, but surely it can't do a lot of harm changing it right away and then leaving it?

Gash! Everything else was right; we was in a relationship, her flat party whilst her folks were away, even managed to source a rubber. We had lots of little attempts (each about 5 minutes long), different positions each one ending because she was in too much pain. Wasn't her first time, few days later she found out why, twisted uterus.

3.00

Last night a girl I've been speaking to at college recently (who I think has a little thing for me), was desperately wanting me to come over to hers, sending me texts, leaving voice messages when I was out of town riding trials (with a mate so technically I'm busy and would be rude to leave him socially). In the end she really got to me, I find her a nice girl but I ended up ignoring her. Then I had a dream that I was doing another bird and the girl had been sending me texts randomly walked in on me, trying to find me as I wasn't answering my phone.

Definately could have been influenced, I was waiting for him to whop out the tailwhip. But as said, its a BMX trick, any rider could have influenced that.

The amount of chain slack I have always fluctuates on my mod, no matter what tensioning system (as I personally believe my snail cams never used to slip), and keeping my chain regularly serviced and lubed. I think that FFW is also a large cause of loose chains on mods, the float can create really tight and then really loose spots (I don't think this occurs as much on freehubs which most BMXer's will be running). I agree with what Adam has said, just a single notch on cam can define a loose or tight chain. I'm currently running the Onza in-built tensioning system, its amazing to see the slack being taken up in my chain with such a negligible movement of the allen key when tensioning it. I can see the appeal if I was running a half link chain, which obviously can much more positions available for the wheel in the drop-outs than a standard chain. But as said, freewheel float would screw me over again, and would leave me in limbo of half tight, half loose. The other point to consider is that BMXer's can't put as much stress on their chain, not in the way they ride, but because they don't have a FFW, its much easier to get away with a too tight chain on a BMX because the chain isn't constantly moving like it does on a FFW (I'm sure the loose chain club will know the noise and feeling of having an overtight chain on a FFW, its not exactly pretty or healthy).

Yes it will work, but are a real bitch to stop from moving. I would try and look for Maguras old "Evo 1" mounting system, its practically the same mechanism but the slave cylinders are independent over each other, and can't physically move outwards as the frame works as a stop against the post on the mount. The Evo2 mounting system is terrible as they have a mounting plate which essential makes the brakes one unit, and with the quickrelease mechanism you get nothing but movement (with both cylinders, one pivots, the other slides on the quick release bolt). My personal opinion would be, that for V brake mounts, just use a good V brake, works just as well as a Magura as ultimately it is the pads you use and rim set-up that defines how good a brake it is, and a V brake works out cheaper.