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Everything posted by La Bourde
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I don't think they will. The market is saturated, so many brands currently and I have the impression street/trials has no longer the momentum it had a few years ago. In Germany and France, the used market is full of 24" street/trials. I think the fact that Danny and Fabio do not release any street/trials edit anymore and with the rise of e bikes, there is less interest in this discipline (sadly). I guess it will be like Danny's Santa Cruz or Duncan's Marin. I heard some rumors alledging that Fabio's frame is released cause it was part of his contract. Hopefully I am wrong and the big S will become a new major actor.
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Hi, Tartybikes has developed its own range of products! The brand ist called RD: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/news/tarty_bikes_launch_a_new_range_of_products/u330.html Love the use of steel and laser cut (think Adam already knows the French brand Boulhol) and the development of lower price components. (some v-brake adapters are upcoming) Such a good news! Thanks Tarty to launch a new brand in this tough times! Wish you the best!
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Hi, Good to hear you did not get bad injured. Did you notice some scuffs on the chain? Months ago my chain broke regularly and I then understood it was related to some hits on the chain (I had no bash at that time). I just swapped my chain and bought two Z1HEX. I run one of my cleep 26 for many months no, but I don't ride it currently as much (somehow it is refreshing to ride 20" ) I also tried a Izumi 410 chain, used in track racing and black on my street trial. No problem with it neither. I noticed there are now a KMC e101 and z101.
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Hi, Cheap with 72 poe... My answer would have been Hope. It is quite a lot for MTB... Yohan Triboulat rides a Spank Hex hub and he seems happy with, more than with Hope. The hub is slightly less expensive than the UK made one. Why not an old pro 2 evo? It has 40 poe but with 4 pawls engaging simultaneously. So you could shorten two like Tarty did? But you know already the trick I guess. π
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Win Radfest Tickets: Cheap Bike Video Competition!
La Bourde replied to Rich Pearson's topic in Videos
Thank you to Rich, Heatsink and the participants! Trials needs more of this kind of contests to get more visibility overall. And the riding on these bikes was fantastic and proved again that the rider skills are more relevant that the bike! -
Love the first glimpse of purpleπ Look forward to see the result and to hear about your riding feedback. And let us knowhow the Comas hub works.
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I forgot one thing: I have the impression it is more difficult when the bike and application are too close. For example I had more difficulties with a 24" race BMX than with a 20" on a pump track or race track where I used to ride a 26" bike. I had a similar feeling when I tried the different 24" street/trial bikes of my friends. I have a similar problem with the different keyboard layouts I have to deal with (en, dr, fr). I noticed that I don't map a location (home, at work, etc.) or a device (laptop, workstation, private computer) with a layout but more what specific application I am using (what mail program exactly). But maybe that is just me.
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Agree with of you. Just want to add my own experience: I had several bikes (currently street trial 26", comp trial 20" and 26", 26 and 27.5 MTB) for many many years. From my experience: - if you switch a lot, you will feel comfortable to a new bike faster. - once you are used to a bike, it takes less time to feel well again on this specific bike - but even after many years, you will still need many hours to ride best with the bike. - with experience, you understand better how to use a geometry best. Overall switching to a new bike helps a lot: it is a source of motivation, it forces you to adapt your position, maybe even to force you to execute moves you won't use else. I currently ride a lot my 20", it was quite weird first but now I enjoy it a lot and it forces to pedal up more obstacles and to be more precise. I think people tend naturally to execute over and over moves they already can. Learning new moves seems to me to be more effective to progress faster.
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It is a fully integrated headset? Damn, I don't like them. I had once a Devinci with an integrated headset and the bearings damaged the seat: I guess I rode once with a loose headset. I had to buy a headset cutter and the result was OK, but not as good as from the factory. There is no room for error with those headsets. Hope they won't remove the cups of the bottom bracket shell.
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I guess around 2015 the MTB geometries were spot on. I have the same issue as you with chainstays length. I like short ones, but having longer ones makes you ride faster, safer and cornering better. It climbs also much better. I went for a Kona operator 27.5" 2017 to replace my old 2014 26 " summum, to get shorter chain stays. To be honest I am still not convinced that it is a better choice. Only improvement is the bike ability to jump, I feel more comfortable (which is good cause I suck at jumping) - but I think this is mainly due to the bigger Diameter of the wheels. Manuals or bunny ups are not much easier, and I have lost traction in some turns...
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I first understood you wrong. Read twice helped. They changed both the headset height and the headtube length, right? Your spokes looks silly on my display : Look at the top left oblique ones. They look like they are not continuous
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Some months ago, I tried this: - 90x 35 trialtech stem - high riser street bar (around 100mm rise) The bar/ bottom bracket height difference was similar to the one of my street trials. It felt quite weird and even if the manuals were quite easy to throw, I did not trust myself on high bunny ups. I did not ride enough to get perfectly used to, but I did not find this experiment a success: the higher bar made the weight during rear wheel hops more difficult, the extension to the front was harder too.
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You meant head tube instead of headset, right? I really like the fact that they always improve the proven design further. When you look at the history of the Atomz/Crewkerz bike, it is like natural evolution: AKTII -> Quark -> Cleep -> Jealousy mkI -> etc. Some minor changes for each generation. Also having slightly shorter bikes sounds for me better. My 1090mm large Cleep is for my riding level not better than my Freed 3 with 1070mm. On the other side, I found the 1065 Jealousy I tried two weeks long too unstable. Was really nice to have fun with though. PS: be careful with your spokes, they look already snapped on the pictures (how can a smartphone generate these artifacts !?)
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I don't know but by the look at the sidewalls ... They remind me my Kenda front tyre: The sidewalls are really too weak and the plies are visible. If you ride with low pressure, I guess they won't last long. But this assumption is just based on the picture.
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Hello - new to trials but better late than never
La Bourde replied to Bootstrapbob's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
Hi and welcome, Do not hesitate to post some pictures of your bikes. Guess with a bmx background you should be able to learn the basic quite fast. Wish you a lot of fun ! -
I agree with you both. I think the concept could be better implemented. And I don't want to spend a single word on the website... Unfortunately I have absolutely no knowledge in biomechanics. But the facts that clip less pedals have angular motion makes me wonder if there may be an advantage. In addition, there are only 4 points of contact in trials and two of them are pedals. It makes sense to try to improve it like it occurs for stem and bar position. And I like when someone comes with a new idea/thinks outside the box. @cwtrials: I see also your point with instability. It seems they use a spring to rotate your feet back. I was thinking about suspension fork: it may feel sometimes less stable at slow pace but overall a mountain bike feels more control at speed. Maybe sacrificing a little more instability could be worth it if other aspects are improved.
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Right, I will try to explain my thought. I think having more angular freedom for your feet helps when you cope: - Maybe even more when you cope the bike sideways, cause you put the bike out of axle and you have to twist your ankles. For sure the ankles give some range of motion, but can more angular freedom helps? - In addition, when I squat, my feet tend to twist - not sure if it is the case for everyone, but it is well known that clip less pedals without angular freedom can lead to knee issues. So if they are able to twist freely, maybe I can cope even faster/better/higher?
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Hi, Saw recently a vblog about these new pedals: https://www.8degreepedal.com/collections/all The pedals are "floating" I.e. the platform can rotate from 4 degree in both directions of the yaw axis. I was wondering if this can help during high sidehops or bunny hops where the bike shall be lift to the body side. I guess the shoes already offer some kind of displacement, but maybe these pedals could help. What do you think? Would it be a problem for other moves? My sidehops are not high enough to have a relevant opinion π.
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Thank you so much! My father gave me his broken mini lathe and as soon as I have more time, I will try to repair it (new power supply and motor- the V-brake adapters will be quite expensive ) I took already some measurements and they were really close to yours. NB: I noticed they are several types of V-brakes bosses so for the DIYers, be careful !
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Currently my shoes are Pearl Izumi X-alp Flow I use a different innersole a little stiffer. Sometimes I use 5.10 freerider. I never rode with trial specific shoes like Hebo. Is it worth ?
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I have or had some other pedals: Wellgo MG1, OneUp Composite, DMR V6, Shimano Saint, plastic pedals with plastic(animals rat trap, Cinema tilt) or aluminium pins... Pedals are like grips to me, I tried a lot and I know that some pedals may work better than other for a specific use. My preference is for plastic body, they are less slippery in the wet. I really like the OneUp for example, for DH and enduro at least. But I do not like them on a trial bike, too grippy and the pins are too aggressive. Somehow in trials I feel I need less grip than for other disciplines. I am a big fan of 5.10 in MTB but I ride Pearl Izumi shoes in trials. The Xpedo are really light and the pins are OK. There was only this slight play when riding in the wet that I fixed using the tape.
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I guess it makes sense first when soles and pedals are worn. As long as the paint is present, the body has enough grip in wet conditions. But I have some pedals which body is almost polished by the soles of my shoes. In this case, even if the pins are sharp, I feel less grip. I rode today again in wet conditions and still have the impression it is better.
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Hi, the last few wet rides, my feet just keep slightly move on the pedals: the paint on the aluminium body is missing on some area and the soles of my shoes are worn much. In addition, the xpedo spry are not concave and the axle protrudes. Years ago, I removed the original pins and put some grub screws (6 mm and 8mm, if I recall correctly) Not a problem in dry conditions, but as soon as the sole is wet I was a little annoyed. So I tried to glue some skate grip tape. The first ride with the grip tape is positive. Do you use grip tape in your pedals? How long does it last?
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π Just want to comment on that one. I am 178cm tall (5 feet 10 inch) I own a Crewkerz cleep in large and I rode a medium for more than 10 days, with the 145x25 WaW stem and a bar with a medium rise. I noticed that the large was too long! I had several stems on the large one: the old WaW in 145x25 and 150x35 with a bar with less offset (rise but in the horizontal plan, according to Crewkerz 82mm) and the new WaW ultimate in 145x20 and 135x20 (bar with 102mm rise) I still struggle with front moves, I am still learning them, so maybe my opinion is biaised. First of all, the 145x20 with the new bar tilted forward felt amazing when I put my weight on the front to lift the rear wheel. I was much more confident. I found that I was more stable on the rear wheel, it was less tiring, but the bike was less responsive - quite easy to notice when I tried to spin on the rear wheel. It felt like the rear wheel was stuck to the ground. Rolling down big steps was horrible, big lack of confidence. But the main issue was, that I injured one of my arm/shoulder... I guess I had to over extent my arm/shoulder... I could not push the bike as forward as I wanted to. For example, when I failed on a big pedal hop to rear wheel, I could not hold the bike while landing backwards on my feet, the bar was just too far. I also found the pedal hop more difficult, it was somehow more difficult to control the lateral balance during the pedaling part. So I bought the 135x20 and tilted the bar less forward. It was a new bike, much more dynamic, much closer to the medium one I rode (with the 145x25 and 102 rise bar). I really enjoy to ride with again. I was able to manual again (still a pain in the a$$ though) It feels almost like with the 145x25 WaW stem and the 82mm bar. Overall I guess the medium fits me better, cause I have a bike easier to move and I am able to put more weight on the front axle that with the large one with the 135x20 stem. I prefer shorter wheelbase somehow too, I think it easier to tap for my riding level. The small advantage on the rear wheel does not make sense to me. I guess on a long section or a day of competition, you may feel less tired, which can be a game changer then. I also rode a Jealousy 2017 or so in small with a 135 stem for several days. This one was like a 20", really manoeuvrable, but so much that I prefer a medium one (but it was quite fun to ride though) I have also a Crewkerz Freed, much shorter (1070mm wheelbase instead of 1090 for the large cleep), a lower bb (45 instead of 65) with a less aggressive position. It is quite more difficult or more exhausting to stay on the rear wheel, but it ride well. I have the impression I can move faster on the bike. The front moves are much difficult though. Recently I also put on my cleep a trialtech 90x35mm stem and tilt a street bar with 100mm rise like on a street trial. I put almost 30 mm spacers, so that my position relative to the bottom bracket is similar to the one on my street/trial (the bar is still not high enough). I was easier in manual but the bunny were still feeling bad. I did not trust myself much, like I will with a street/trial. I was OK on the rear wheel, much easier to spin. I did not make a great street trials π I assume a lot of trial riders rode with a long stem and tilted bar because of Jack Carthy. But he is bigger and agiler than most and he ended up riding a medium frame! The new Jealousy seems also a little shorter. Oliver Widmann rides a medium one too and he is also taller than me. To me, it seems trials is going a step back, the bikes were too long. And I guess it makes more sense to lower the the bar height than moving it forward and higher.
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Thanks for the answer. With these information, I guess the Extention is the way to go. (Even if I hate IS headset in an aluminium frame) Do you know who are the guys behind Extention?