La Bourde

Hi, there is an interview of Fabio Wibmer on Pinkbike. He didn't say clearly that Canyon is developing a carbon street/trial frame, but it makes sens for me. Not sure though, whether it will be available for customers. Enjoy !

Maybe you can get some used ones. This is not the kind of stuff that can get damaged (be careful with arms with parallelograms like XT/XTR though, they may have play) and it is easy to find. I found some Avid Speed Dial 7 levers on ebay recently for a decent price. I have some deore arms on one bike and it works fine. Shimano still produces Deore, LX (for trekking though) and XT arms. As Adam wrote, pads and cables are more important. I recommend not to buy some arms with parallelograms, they required too much maintenance and they are not stiff. I tried also fine high polished cable that should reduce friction on my old race BMX (Jagwire ultra slick). I noticed a difference first, but I can't say it was much better overtime. The cable was really expensive (10x more than a cheap one), so I am not sure it was worth it.

Two other options: Vario Styx and JB Zark.

Welcome! The french forum is also dead (http://www.esprittrial.com/forum/)... I think this one of the last trial forums at all That is crazy somehow. As I still was an active moderator on esprittrial.com, I though the raise of street/trial will boost the forum. But social media came at the same time too... I still don't get why people post on facebook instead of a dedicate forum though

Which High roller do you mean ? The first one or the second version ? The first one rolls really but it is pretty directional. Not sure it is a good tyre for trial on natural obstacles. The high roller II rolls a little worse but is less directional. The DHF and the DHR roll even worse. A really fast rolling maxxis tyre is the ardent, but it has really thin sidewalls, so I will recommend it only on the front. The ardent race uses 3 different compounds and might roll even better (didn't ride it). My preference for street/trial goes to the holy roller. I tried the Kenda K-rad, Kenda Small Block 8, Kenda Kranium, Onza XIII, Schwalbe table top on my hardtails and I think only the holy roller and the table top are good for street/trial.

To reduce the travel of the lever, turn the silver part anti clockwise. Ensure also that the distance between the brake pads and the disc is about 0.5 mm on both side. If not you can adjust this on the caliper (on both side I think - the inner side with a screw and the other side by tensioning the cable)

Can't answer your question but when the weather sucks for a long period, I go to a place close to where I live that is covered and that has some nice rocks ... I can spend more than one hour there training the basics again (riding backward, pivot front wheel, 180°, etc) or just ride over the rocks. Still better than going to the gym

Currently I am building a new 26" bike to ride street/trial but also park. That is why I am looking for cheap parts that are easy to service. For the brakes, I went for some Shimano BR-M375 mechanical disc brakes, actuated by Avid speed dial 7 levers. I love the ergonomy of the Avid levers. All the other V-Brake levers I had do not come close (Deore, LX, XTR, some BMX levers). Why the Shimano and not the Avid BB7 or 5 ? The reason is that they use the b01s brake pads, so I can use my favorite Trickstuff Power brake pads (that I strongly recommend), that are not available for the Avid BBx serie. I like to use some old Shimano cranks in 104.mm with steel axle. On my other bike I run an XTR m970, best cranks I owned. On the new one I will problably use some old SLX cranks. It is always difficult to find the appropriate bashguard though.

I saw today that Schwalbe has a new tire for pumptrack/dirt/street: the billy bonkers. Available in skinwall and black. really light (around 450g) but one size only: 26x2.10.

As always with Akrigg, the video is just stunning. Such moves...

No. It requires a zero stack (ZS) headset. I think ZS44/28,6 for the top and ZS44/30 (if your fork shaft is not tapered- If your fork is tapered EC44/40). Please double check that the inner diameter of the headtube is 44mm (it could be 49 too), where the cups seat.

Yes he can if he has a vice. Pushing the bearings back without the appropriate tool might be tricky though. I heard that the 12mm version of the Hope pro II axle broke. The 9 mm or 10 through version was stronger.

I came from a MTB background too and the first trial bike I bought was a 26" - almost 15 years ago, there was no choice then. I tried 24" bikes (trial and street) many times. But I never owned one, because my preference goes to 26" (I am 1,78m, 5'10). Recently I bought a 24" race bmx (I also had a 20" before) and it is really difficult to swap between 26" DJ and this BMX. Too me, it was easier to swap with the 20", because it felt like another kind of bike. (I found also that riding a different bike for many months helped me to progress) Nowaday enduro/dh bikes use 27,5" or 29" wheels and long and slack geometries, that differ from the street trial one in many ways. It means that you will either way need to adapt when riding your trial bike. So if you still own a 26" DJ bike and you ride it regularly, I recommend you to buy the hex.

I second that Hopefully Schwalbe will release a black version soon.

Only the sides of the tread are softer on a dual compound ... does not really help for street/trial. Did you consider the schwalbe table top ? Here in Germany they are quite cheap. I don't know in the US though.

Nice to see that Inspired get some competitors. The frame looks sweet to me. And knowing Crewkerz reputation, it might be a great alternative to Inspired. Hopefully they will produce a 26" version too. Cause currently the choice is easy to make ...

Interesting topic ! I think I can visualize well how to do a trick or a line. But sometimes, not at all. I know all the different phases of a bunny hop, I can visualize them one after another, but I can't see the whole movement. It is like I need to understand the missing link before I can see it. I really struggle with this, because I think I could go much higher (currently 85cm). The missing part is after the extension, hips close to the bar. How to lift the bike, so that I can tuck correctly (with the nose going down)? I read and watched a lot of videos, but still I can't connect all the pieces together. What about you riding a MTB track for the second or third time ? Can you already ride it fast because you already know where the obstacles are ? Can you visualize the whole track ? That is something I am really good at compare to my riding buddies. It noticed it years ago, when we went for the first time ride bikepark in Portugal. One friend took a slam after about 5 runs on the same track. The next run, he crashed again at the same place (it was a small drop between to turns on a slippery ground - nothing difficult). I was really surprised, he still didn't know the track. At this point I was almost able to explain which line I will took on each turn and why. As we rode together later on a really technical natural track, with a lot of roots and stones, it made a huge difference. I was composing lines while they tried to survive. Mostly I forget what I dreamed of. But when not, it can be so clear in my mind, so natural, so real, but completly weird and full of discripancies. But in my job I sometimes need to visualize things before I code them.

He made an YT video in which he complains how high is the pressure not to deceive his fans on each appearance (event, video, etc.). It was just after his friend Elias was injured during a DH practice. This video impressed me a lot, cause it was easy to notice how his nerves are set on edge. I doubt anyone can deal with such a pressure this long.

If you want some good brake pads, you can try the tr!lckstuff power. They are amazing, I never had so powerfull brakepads. Make such a big difference. Now I can't even brush the brake lever in manual Galfer is the company that produces the brake pads for hope (so whenever you want to replace your hope pads, check wether the galfer arn't cheaper)

Yes, that is crazy in Germany. Sometimes when I go ride pumptrack, I see some kids riding scooters wearing some sicks shirts ... Fabio Wibmer has videos with more 50M views on youtube, almost 4M followers. Aaron Gwin's publications do not have such a broad audiance... Wibmer has some product placement in his video. He made an advertissement for Mercedes ... I think he is one of best earning rider, all disciplines combined (with Kriss Kyle, Danny M)

Thanks Mark for your reply. Not sure about this. I read that the design of the pawls (angles, size, profile), springs and ratchet is although really important. And to be honest I can't imagine that trial brands invest so much in R&D for FW (no finance). Sure the more engagement points, the more drag using the same design thought. Look for example at the profile freewheel (140 engagement points), used in BMX race: They also have a rear hub with 200 engagement points. I think their design should be superior because drag will be definitivly rejected by BMX racers. There is less torque (almost 3x less, most use a 44/16T config) on the freewheel, maybe it makes a big difference too. With my current Monty 135.9 in my hands, it was suprised I had to hold it tight to actioned it. On my rear hub. Not sure here too. Maybe it is the same as with suspension of a professional DH racer. I won't be able to ride fast or engaged enough to use the whole travel and the shim stack of the suspension won't be optimized at all for this kind of shaft speed. So it is too harsh for me and I will get tired earlier than with a stock suspension. Sure it forces you to try to ride faster. So you mean a 108.9 has less drag. I'll lose 0,5 degree of rotation, that is nothing. Is there still much more drag than with a 72 clicks freewheel ?

Hi everyone, recently I bought for my main bike a new rear wheel that has more engagement points (new hope pro 4 Trial with 88 engagement points to replace an old Pro II with 40). I noticed I had to get use to it, but overall it seems to be a good update. This week I ordered a 135.9 freewheel for my brakeless bike (júst want to try to ride brakeless). I am surprised how much drag there is and I am not sure I want to ride further with. An old FW with 60 or 72 engagement points has almost no drag . But these 135.9 freewheels seem to use some strong springs (120.9 also). My first question is: will the drag lessen after bedding-in ? My concerns: Sometimes, my body position isn't correct. With the old hub, I could move my feet more without engaging. I had more free degrees of rotation so I could be less precise but still get things done. With the new hub, I have to be much more precise. Maybe it is good for an expert, but for a bad rider like me ? Because the engagement happens so fast, I am worried about riding backwards, for example after landing an abubaca. Basically it reduces the time you have to react. Is this a problem ? The drag is really important. I love to manual and I always hated when my disc brake was bent and slown me down. It makes some lines more difficult, because you loose speed. In addition, due to the important drag, the cranks rotate when the rear wheel rotates forward. Will I get more pedal bites ? It makes for sure tricks like crank flip or foot jam tailwhip more difficult (I can't do it so that is fine) One of the thing I appreciate riding brakeless is the simplicity. The bike rolls better (tires help too) and is quiet. It is a nice feeling. But the 135.9 is so loud ! And also I can feel the spring while riding slowly. Uncool. Because the chain tension is never perfect and induce some dead rotation, can someone distinguish between a 135.9 freewheel from a 120.9 ? or even 109.9 ? Does having more engagement points make sens for street/trial riding ? (It is obvious for competition trial) For the beginners too ? Do you care about drag on your bike ? Does a free hub like the Industry nine torch SS (120 engagement points) have less drag ? Maybe these FW have just a poor design? PS: Sorry to be that geeky :-)

The prototype of the 1.3 : I am not fond of green, but this one is beautiful.

Thanks a lot

The first bike are delivered: Me like