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La Bourde

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Everything posted by La Bourde

  1. I bought a specific Hope rotor in 190mm, that was almost twice expensive as the normal one! Though I am not Scottish, can't forget that!🤣
  2. If you have a clearance issue, this is because you use a wrong rotor/adapter combination. (Or your frame mount is off) Unfortunately, there are "metric" and "imperial" based dimensions (?) for rotor and adapter, with the exception of 160mm. So there are 180 and 185mm rotors, 200 and 203 (8"). Shimano uses metric dimensions, Avid not. Hope makes both. (Koxx had also a 190mm disc and matching fork...)
  3. It shall work but the Shimano oil is much thicker than the trialtech specific fluid. So I do not recommend it. I tried and it was OK, better than the original oil (I mean the Magura blood) I tried with thiner mineral oils, like suspension fork oil from Putoline (the HPX 2.5). The result is OK, but the trialtech fluid is still better.
  4. 😃for sure I am ham-fisted, but not enough to have problem with other brands.
  5. Is there any part designed to be removed on a Magura brake? I thought they are just meant to fail when you service the brake 😁
  6. Yes, I had the opportunity to ride a Hex, but I never owned one. I own an alloy Merida 26" street trial prototype, which geometry is closed to the Hex. Both bikes are much easier on the rear wheel than the Zero. The longer front end make them better for transfer or gap. The Zero has a similar wheelbase, but the chainstays are longer (20mm), the head angle is slacker so overall its reach is much shorter. The zero was amazing in manual. Maybe cause the bottom bracket is so low and the chainstays not too short. The zero is harder to spin. My NS majesty Park felt closer to the Zero due to the short reach. But it spins much better, it is quite unstable compared to the Zero. It makes it sometimes harder in manual, but it is so playful, like a BMX... I like it.
  7. I have a MTB background too and honestly, I never felt good on a 24". I never own one for a long time, but I had the opportunity to test some of them (four play and Crewkerz guilty, element) I felt quite good on the guilty. But still it felt like a shorter bike, too close to a 26". I tried 20" comp bikes and I felt almost better on them, cause it is completely different to ride (but not the solution in your case, you want to ride the bike on obstacles I guess and not pedal up everything) As Brettol said, try both if possible. I guess 26" will fit you better though. I had an Orange Zero too (really loved it) and the Hex or the other 26" street trials are a further refinement of it. I have a NS Majesty Park built as a 26" street trials and it feels similar to the zero:
  8. Nice! As far as I know the cleep 1 (gray) had +60mm cause they used a different fork. With its straight fork, the cleep 2 was sold as +65mm. These are no decals but some kind of anodizing. What do you use to remove the anodizing? Which size is the frame? Looks like a medium to me.
  9. I am almost offended to read that I ride an old school bike! 😂 Was also expecting a +30mm bottom bracket, not +65mm! The geometry of the Cleep2 (and Cleep) is still on point to me. What part do you plan to swap? I noticed a front disc setup and an original Magura HS33 lever...
  10. Never used them nor saw them live. But these pedals were released some years ago and are still available on the market. So I think there is a satisfied customer base. Maybe it is not for everyone. I hope it will help you to ride more.
  11. Heard from a pro rider that they are worth the weight even for his weight-weenies soft spots!
  12. La Bourde

    JamesB Vids

    Damn good edit again! Reminds me the old school edits ... I really like that. Your style is coming back on this kind of bikes, it looks huge and smooth at the same time. 😍 Hope you are well again. Concussions are really no fun at all. PS: I never heard of this band, but it makes directly to my playing list.
  13. To me it looks like they are some aluminum thread inserts, where the delamination started. If cracks are apparent, then the delamination is quite far. I think the structure is too altered to attempt to repair it! In addition it seems to me that it is quite difficult to compress the fiber correctly at this section of the stem. But I am not a carbon specialist. The whole design is quite ambitious. If the fork steerer, the aluminum insert or the stem tolerances are slightly off (I won't be surprise at all if it is the case on many trials fork and stem), the stress increases at the clamping part. They are some clamping marks on the inside of the stem clamp. It looks like the aluminum insert caused them. I assume the clamping force was quite high.
  14. Hi! Got a similar brake setup: BB7, Odyssey Linear Slick cable, organic pads but Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. I prefer the SD7 lever cause the leverage can be adjusted and it seems to me, that it could be set higher, resulting in more power but a spongier feel. I run Shimano RT66 rotors in 180mm front and 160mm rear. It works quite well! Recently I was missing some power on the front but I guess my brake pads are slightly contaminated. I really like the BB7, I like the low maintenance. My Shimano Zee or the Magura MT7 of a friend required constant attention, it is annoying. Jistie has some trial specific brake pads for the BB7. I did not try them, but I would like too. You can find them on tartybikes Trial specific brake pads deliver generally much more power.
  15. Even if you don't expect an answer from them, I guess dropping a line to raise their awareness about this particular issue may help them. Hopefully they will improve their QC.
  16. I just notice that the white and the black frame differ ... The black one has a rear through axle! My gosh! I don't get it. If they want to produce two different frames, to split entry level and high end level, why do the entry level frame use hydroformed multi-butted tubes and CNC parts but a 5mm axle? How much cost they save this way? Crewkerz had it right with the old Freed/Desire and their tubes with simple shapes, no hydroforming and no CNC or forged parts (but the rear ends). The Jealousy is much more expensive to produce. Did you contact TMS regarding the axle? That is quite annoying!
  17. Looks good too me, especially with the fat HolyRoller and high profile carbon wheels! What issues did you encountered? Compatibility of parts? Or just bad production?
  18. La Bourde

    JamesB Vids

    It looks like someone had fun on his new bike. Nice video, that motivates me to ride the comp bike again! By the way, did you think about riding competitions again?
  19. Another broken caliper with a bent adapter: Some other cases: Be careful with the adapter guys!
  20. Here some threads that cover the topic. After my Zee brake caliper failed, my Shimano adapter was also bent. I sent the whole thing to Shimano Europe and they said the problem was the lack of torque of the screws. To me, this was just an excuse not to take it under warranty - that is somehow fine, cause the brake adapters are not designed for trial use. Trial puts a lot of stress on the frame and adapter. It is well known too, that a lot of frames crack either at the brake mount or at the seat stay seat tube junction. I also broke a rotor too. One the best adapter for me seems to be the old Avid one. It is really beefy.
  21. These f*cking Shimano adapters. You need a beefier one.
  22. La Bourde

    JamesB Vids

    The bike seems to suit you well. What an amazing ride! Why did you chose a Clean over a Crewkerz?
  23. The SRAM gxp axle diameter is 22 mm onone side and 24mm on the other. There are some bearing with ID 25 and OD 37: the 61805. Then you need the plastic sleeve that is pressed in the bearing of a shimamo bb to run a 24mm axle. Enduro bearing has a bearing with ID 22 and OD 37. With some spacers that shall work. But not sure the result will be great.
  24. I use trickstuff Power brake pads on my Zee and they are amazing. They are different from the non power ones. I never tried Trialtech or jitsie one, but a lot of mountain bikers recommend Trickstuff brake pads once they tried them. Maybe I will get some for my BB7. The Trickstuff power brake pads wear faster than standard pads, the rotor wear faster too, at least in Enduro or DH use. For our discipline, there might be a difference, but not a huge one.
  25. Thanks for the comments guys. I had a look at the other majors properties of rubber, there are quite a few. Years ago I took out of the bin at work a book about tribilogy and rubber. Gess it is time to flip through it to get a better understanding.
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