La Bourde

Go for a Hashtagg freewheel then. One requires the ISIS tool to remove them: Alternative, find a fixed hub with spline body or a crankset like the bonz one: https://www.trial-bikes.com/en/bonz-pro-light-bb24-crankset-p-537672.html I think using the Hashtagg freewheel makes more sense for you, it will be easier to fix compare to the bonz freewheel. If you want, I have a new Tensile freewheel to sell that also use the ISIS tool. It has only 60 POE. I will be happy to sell it to you.

I suggest a Hope Pro V (or even pro IV or pro 2 evo 40t) ss/trials or maybe Industry Nine (really expensive). Do you have the 142 or 135 rear ends installed currently? If you have the 135*10, you can also buy a trial hub and a freewheel. That might be slightly less expensive. If the price difference is not much, I would rather go for a hope hub. Regarding the rims, I have a good experience with DT swiss, either the ex471 or fr560. Nice build quality. Spank has a good reputation too.

Hi, Difficult question. Why do you want to sell the bike at all? DJ, skatepark or street is not what you were looking for? Trials or street/trials require a specific bike past a certain level, but you can learn the basics with any bike. Some bikes are easier to start with for sure, but the question is whether you will stick to it or not. A I was moderator on a French trials forum, I observed too often people selling their bikes after one year of trials. My advice is to start with your bike as this and learn trackstand, bunny, manual, getting up some small steps, bunny to rear, 180, riding backwards, hoping on the rear wheel backwards and if you have a front brake, stoppies, bunny up to front, 180 on the front wheel, etc. As soon as you really feel addicted, ask yourself again how do you really want to ride. Meet people owning one and ask them to ride with. I think you won't find easily a driver with 15t compatible and even in this case, the small amount of points of engagement is a big drawback. You can swap for a rear wheel with e.g. hope hub but it is quite expensive. On the other hand, it is a nice hub for a DJ bike too.

Even more than 10 years later, this frame still looks nice. Happy build!

Saw a couple of days ago that Europeans can't get the TartyBikes RD parts anymore due to the new GPSR regulation (General Product Safety Regulation). I had the pleasure to buy some excellent Vee adapters last year and it is a shame Europeans can no more order some.

On my cruiser BMX, I used to ride Power block from Tioga: they were quite good on the pumptrack and in 24x2,10" should be OK as front tire. Kenda has the small block eight in 24x2,1 too, but I had a lot of pinch flat with this one on a 26" bike. I did not like the K-rad neither on a 26". There is also a new Maxxis Snyper, 24x2,0, with more knobs, will be too thin as rear tire. Like Swoofty, I like the holy roller a lot (as a rear tire on a 26" though).

Hi and welcome, A trial comp bike like the Echo pictured is not suited at all for street/trials. It does whether spin nor roll easy, it is almost impossible to bunny hop, making street moves much more difficult. It will be good to learn the trial specific moves though, like statics, sidehops, etc. These moves are the basics and being able to execute them well will make you a much better rider later on. But maybe you will get bored with this bike... Trials is very specific and for example, sometimes as a mountain biker, I miss the feeling of speed (which is less the case in street/trials). And even riding on a sidewalk with this kind of bikes is a pity ... The position is horrible, the rear brake loud, the freewheel has a lot of drag. I really appreciate to ride on a comp bike, but it is so specific to this discipline and street/trials are so good nowadays, it makes sense to buy one only if one really wants to improve and train specific moves or if you only ride comp trial style. By the way, the spec is great. Although, the Echo rear brake is not so reliable and the stem looks quite long for your size. If you are more interested in street trials, go for the Zoot. The bikes has nice parts on it for the price and as a beginner, I expect you won't stress the frame so much the first few months (or do you have a BMX/dirt background?) You can later update the frame and thus become a solid build. As for the wheel size, 26" rolls better on obstacles (does not get stuck into holes), requires slightly less precision on bars or small obstacles, but is more difficult to spin (e.g. 180°) or to move.

A friend prefers the conti to the Schwalbe Table top. Recent addition are Cast tyres made by Pirelli and "designed" by Danny and Fabio. https://castmtb.com/collections/tires Some interesting design choices stated on their website. So expensive though. Hopefully some feedback will be available soon.

The new bike is shorter and it seems Charlie feels well on it. Massive moves, as usual!

Was not expecting this! It seems the new Clean owner has invest some money...Nina and now Charlie. Which is hopefully good for the riders. Hopefully the products will evolved too.

First, check if the whole wheel is centered, I mean it is laced without an offset. Second, as Swoofty said, check first that the wheel is centered in the dropouts. This can only be the case with the oldest version of the Crewkerz Desire (the newest version has a 12mm through axle, so the wheel is centered). First question: Is this the newest Crewkerz Desire with a 12mm through axle or the previous one with the bolt-on rear wheel ? If the wheel js not centered in the dropouts or is laced with an offset, one brake pad will drag most of the time (if not not the whole time) against the rim. Second question: Does the pad drag against the rim for a short period? Then, the rim is untrue and you need to centered it by adjusting the spoke tension. I don't expect a wheel to get untrue after some hops on the rear wheel. But if you fell down on your bike, that could be the case.

Nice videos Swoofty! Smooth riding too, appreciate. The 120 rear axle is already a no go for me. But the missing part, the seat tube not being round and the seat stays not weld at the same height ! No way! 🙄

I agree with you that the Magura fittings are particularly sensible to oxydation. I own also some and their are the only one that oxidize that much. But Magura is also not really good in their material choice, see the cheesy carbotecture levers. Some Shimano fittings are gold anodized, see Shimano Saint for example, some other fittings like Hope are stainless steel. I checked on my Magura Louise and the fitting is a mix of material, a part is steel the other one is aluminium (I used a magnet). So I suppose it is galvanic corrosion. The finish of the aluminum part is surely not good. I disagree regarding the terms. Corrosion does not mean the same as oxydation. As I wrote corrosion implies a degradation of the affected part. Not the case with oxydation, that could even be used to protect the part from degradation. Rust has a specific meaning, it applies only for iron. I am surprise you don't make the difference? My point was that Swoofty's bike is stored in Hamburg and that makes a huge difference. As I wrote, as soon as there is a little salt in the environment, you shall expect parts to rust/oxidize/corrode. The difference is amazing. I made once the experience myself as I went for a few days in Bordeaux. I was just in the town, far from the ocean (Bordeaux is already some km away from the coast). But the marin air was present and all of my screws (stems, bottom bracket, brakes, etc.) started to rust, while they never did before. So I wanted to emphasize that Swoofty's bike is exposed to an aggressive environment and as he wanted some tips, I wrote things I know. I guess he really has to consider galvanic corrosion too, since he is using a lot of the aluminium/ti combo. Saline environments also boost galvanic corrosion and failures or seized parts are not uncommon in the bike industry (see the Shimano Dura Ace cranks for example, or a lot of carbon frames with aluminum inserts or even all the seat posts that get stuck). It is nice to see though, that he already considered this. The only other hint from me regarding the fittings would be to swap them with anodized ones or to get some stainless steel fittings. Trickstuff seems to makes both for example (they are from Goodridge and have a good call).

The crewkerz top cup has a particularly low stack height. Carbon forks make less problem than aluminium forks, if produced and installed correctly. According to Crewkerz they have much less problem with HS33 carbon forks than aluminium ones.

Hi, First, let me introduce the terms: - oxidation is just a change in aspect and has no impact on strength. - corrosion means the part strength is potentially affected. Now, we have to distinguish two phenomena: - oxidation / corrosion through air/cold temperature/moisture/salt exposition - galvanic corrosion due to different metal combined together The first one occurs more or less when some conditions are met in the environment. The other one may not be visible, it can occurs for example with seat tube and seat post. Important to know: 1. Temperature plays a role indirectly: the warmer the air, the wetter the air can be, so the more oxidation can occur. It is quite counter intuitive because we often use heat to dry things. 2. Oxidation depends on: - the humidity - salt concentration As soon as there is a little salt, the required amount of humidity is really low, maybe 30% for steel to oxide (sorry I don't know the precise values). But if the air is not salty at all, the humidity has to be quite high to start the oxidation (for steel, maybe 60%) - it is the same for other metals afaik. I.e. exposition to salty air or water is just a mess! And sweat or riding on salty roads in winter can be enough. Hamburg is quite a bad city in this respect (Baltic sea) In addition, mixing metal can lead to galvanic corrosion, which is also a big mess. Aluminium/titanium is really a bad combo. Metals that are further from each other have the highest rate of corrosion when combined Aluminium exposed to the environment can only oxide, because oxidation creates a thin protective layer. But galvanic corrosion can attack the whole aluminium part... To prevent oxidation/corrosion: - prevent mix of materials with different potential (see chart) - Lubricate to isolate (Teflon or copper based grease for parts in contact, sticky oil/wax for parts exposed to environment), regularly - paint or anodize surfaces to isolate - Wash the bike with tap water after riding and dry it, lubricate again - Store it in a dry location (at best cold, to prevent high humidity) - Prevent salty environment and try not to sweat 🙂