La Bourde

First, check if the whole wheel is centered, I mean it is laced without an offset. Second, as Swoofty said, check first that the wheel is centered in the dropouts. This can only be the case with the oldest version of the Crewkerz Desire (the newest version has a 12mm through axle, so the wheel is centered). First question: Is this the newest Crewkerz Desire with a 12mm through axle or the previous one with the bolt-on rear wheel ? If the wheel js not centered in the dropouts or is laced with an offset, one brake pad will drag most of the time (if not not the whole time) against the rim. Second question: Does the pad drag against the rim for a short period? Then, the rim is untrue and you need to centered it by adjusting the spoke tension. I don't expect a wheel to get untrue after some hops on the rear wheel. But if you fell down on your bike, that could be the case.

Nice videos Swoofty! Smooth riding too, appreciate. The 120 rear axle is already a no go for me. But the missing part, the seat tube not being round and the seat stays not weld at the same height ! No way! 🙄

I agree with you that the Magura fittings are particularly sensible to oxydation. I own also some and their are the only one that oxidize that much. But Magura is also not really good in their material choice, see the cheesy carbotecture levers. Some Shimano fittings are gold anodized, see Shimano Saint for example, some other fittings like Hope are stainless steel. I checked on my Magura Louise and the fitting is a mix of material, a part is steel the other one is aluminium (I used a magnet). So I suppose it is galvanic corrosion. The finish of the aluminum part is surely not good. I disagree regarding the terms. Corrosion does not mean the same as oxydation. As I wrote corrosion implies a degradation of the affected part. Not the case with oxydation, that could even be used to protect the part from degradation. Rust has a specific meaning, it applies only for iron. I am surprise you don't make the difference? My point was that Swoofty's bike is stored in Hamburg and that makes a huge difference. As I wrote, as soon as there is a little salt in the environment, you shall expect parts to rust/oxidize/corrode. The difference is amazing. I made once the experience myself as I went for a few days in Bordeaux. I was just in the town, far from the ocean (Bordeaux is already some km away from the coast). But the marin air was present and all of my screws (stems, bottom bracket, brakes, etc.) started to rust, while they never did before. So I wanted to emphasize that Swoofty's bike is exposed to an aggressive environment and as he wanted some tips, I wrote things I know. I guess he really has to consider galvanic corrosion too, since he is using a lot of the aluminium/ti combo. Saline environments also boost galvanic corrosion and failures or seized parts are not uncommon in the bike industry (see the Shimano Dura Ace cranks for example, or a lot of carbon frames with aluminum inserts or even all the seat posts that get stuck). It is nice to see though, that he already considered this. The only other hint from me regarding the fittings would be to swap them with anodized ones or to get some stainless steel fittings. Trickstuff seems to makes both for example (they are from Goodridge and have a good call).

The crewkerz top cup has a particularly low stack height. Carbon forks make less problem than aluminium forks, if produced and installed correctly. According to Crewkerz they have much less problem with HS33 carbon forks than aluminium ones.

Hi, First, let me introduce the terms: - oxidation is just a change in aspect and has no impact on strength. - corrosion means the part strength is potentially affected. Now, we have to distinguish two phenomena: - oxidation / corrosion through air/cold temperature/moisture/salt exposition - galvanic corrosion due to different metal combined together The first one occurs more or less when some conditions are met in the environment. The other one may not be visible, it can occurs for example with seat tube and seat post. Important to know: 1. Temperature plays a role indirectly: the warmer the air, the wetter the air can be, so the more oxidation can occur. It is quite counter intuitive because we often use heat to dry things. 2. Oxidation depends on: - the humidity - salt concentration As soon as there is a little salt, the required amount of humidity is really low, maybe 30% for steel to oxide (sorry I don't know the precise values). But if the air is not salty at all, the humidity has to be quite high to start the oxidation (for steel, maybe 60%) - it is the same for other metals afaik. I.e. exposition to salty air or water is just a mess! And sweat or riding on salty roads in winter can be enough. Hamburg is quite a bad city in this respect (Baltic sea) In addition, mixing metal can lead to galvanic corrosion, which is also a big mess. Aluminium/titanium is really a bad combo. Metals that are further from each other have the highest rate of corrosion when combined Aluminium exposed to the environment can only oxide, because oxidation creates a thin protective layer. But galvanic corrosion can attack the whole aluminium part... To prevent oxidation/corrosion: - prevent mix of materials with different potential (see chart) - Lubricate to isolate (Teflon or copper based grease for parts in contact, sticky oil/wax for parts exposed to environment), regularly - paint or anodize surfaces to isolate - Wash the bike with tap water after riding and dry it, lubricate again - Store it in a dry location (at best cold, to prevent high humidity) - Prevent salty environment and try not to sweat 🙂

Thanks mate. There are people with much more experience! Hope I can share the little I know and thus help this amazing sport!

It is neither my mother tongue, so the issue may come from my side ! High bottom brackets and steep head angles make track standing much more difficult. As already written, try not to brake, try to find some uneven surfaces... But when the surface is really flat, open both brakes, try to turn your shoulders as much as your front wheel and put your chest above the bar. When I get back on the comp bike I find me having the bad habit to stand not straight enough, too much on the rear. Also pulling the front brake and moving your hips rearwards give a backward impulse that you can use to get back (and forth by counteracting with the pedal pressure). Furthermore, improving your body English and your fitness are two other areas of progression. I forgot also three advises : 1. Have your head straight, it is really really helpful. 2. Try to look at the horizon. According to some, it helps too. 3. Some argue that training by night improves your proprioception too.

The cracks to the spoke holes are very interesting. When the spoke tension is too high, some cracks can appear, but mostly on the outside. When the tension is too low, the spokes broke (don't expect the hub shell to crack first)

I have a Bluegrass (the other brand of Met), I like it. I bought a cheap Leatt (25 quids!) and it is surprisingly good. I have good experience with both brands. I have also a IXS light fullface and other stuff from them and I am also happy with. I ordered once a Laser, it was heavy and the shape did not fit my head (very wide helmet) My only recommendation: look at the straps, some brands have some that are really thin and brake easily. Check how they are connected to the helmet.

Rich rode an old inspired hex: Some nice moves there! Can't wait to see the upgraded version... I ride a similar one (a 2011) with front freewheel, v-brakes, inspired bar, hope 70mm stem and I really enjoy it.

It is easier when you face a gentle slope uphill: Mastering the Art oft trials is really a good video to learn trials. There are 4 possibilities to regain balance: - use your foot pressure (release or add pressure with both brakes open), this is the most efficient way to maintain balance (but does not work when it goes downhill. The better you get, the less you move. Stand straight and tall, but relaxed, as strilingpowers wrote. - turn your wheel less or further (that is not something that one uses really, it is more a recovery move or setup move if you face against an obstacle and want to lean against for example) - pivoting on one wheel (like front then rear): used to setup correctly in front of an obstacle, to move laterally. Commonly used to align when your front wheel is on a rail or before a big move in front of an obstacle when the approach is short. It is a load transfer. When pivoting on the front, straight your arms but your shoulders over the bar, like a gymnast on a bar. When pivoting on the rear, you can first maintain the rear brake closed, but when you get better you can slightly open the brake and use your pedal to ease the rotation. - hop both wheels at the same time: cost a lot of effort, mostly used as a recovery or on really uneven surfaces (small pebble, cobble stone). Most of the time, use both brakes. When you get good at riding, try to reduce as much as possible the rear brake usage. Use the pedal pressure instead, find some egdes, find some holes or slopes, etc.

Agree. I think it would be much better for all brands to stick on some standards. Just for the sake of completeness, the 142mm standard is the same as 135 regarding chain line or disc placement. They only add 3.5mm on each side to lead the hub within the frame rear ends (which is a nice feature, it makes installing the wheel easier, but far from necessary) Not sure a wider hub will increase a lot the stiffness of the wheel. I guess the current rims lack stiffness.

Thank you for the feedback - this hub is as you said a good alternative to Hope, at least on paper. Did you check the chain tension? Did you check nothing is loose? The profile of teeth and the overall stiffness of the system play a role in the feeling. Some systems may have many engagement points, but until their teeth are really locked and the whole power could be transmitted, a dead or a spongy response coud be felt due to the play of flex of the system. So even with the same number of engagement points, two different freewheels can have a different feeling (e.g. hub with "instant engagement" like the Onyx, that uses a sprag clutch or trapped roller design may feel quite spongy) In addition do not forget, that the difference between the Hope pro IV SS freewheel with 88 p.o.e. and the Pro V with 108 p.o.e. (20 p.o.e. but 4,09° - 3,33°= 0,76° ) is less than between a freewheel with 72 p.o.e. and another with 88 (16 p.o.e, but 5° - 4,09° = 0,91°) I have a freewheel with 120 p.o.e. and another one with 135 and the difference is liminal. But considering the answers of Daan and basstrials, I assume your freewheel is defective.

So I found at least some threads in this forum with the geometry of the Atomz Evo3: Wheelbase: 1055mm, but found also 1045mm (might be the case depending of the forks) Bottom bracket height: 0, but +20mm in some other threads Chainstay length: 390mm Head angle: 71° Frame weight: around 1,8kg Regarding the megamo equip pro I found that the rear disc mount is +40.

Hi, Would like to know the geometry of the Megamo Radical (the one with semi integrated headset), Equip pro and Atomz Evo 3. And what was your experience with these frames? Did they crack and where? Thanks. Atomz evo III: Megamo equip pro (not the original paint) Megamo Radical: