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@Herbertlemon102 So in the photo above you have (from left to right): Crankarm/silver (Trialtech Ti?) bash/gold spacer/sprocket/bb cup/another bash (acting as a bb spacer?)/ the BB shell. And you have done this because you cannot move the chainline towards the seatstay (or away from the spokes is you prefer) because of the cutdown driver, correct? Have you tried removing both the gold and the black BB bash? So It would go Crankarm/silver bash/sprocket/bb cup/bb shell a more conventional arrangement I don't mean to be a dick but this seems the most obvious setup, enlighten me if I've missed something by all means :-] Also why do you have to run a 128mm BB anyway, you don't need the extra clearance cos you've no FFW so you can use a 118mm isis BB from a MTB (what i've done on my mod pro2 setup) or a 122.5 try-all/reset or a 124mm like the FSA platinum out of a Monty M5.

Some ebay bemusement to get off my chest & contribute to the silent wall, but it's quite along one. About a month ago I posted this So after some more back and forth, including them asking to see pics of a fault I had already intimately described - I had to send detailed pics of a black screen with a little green flashing light at the bottom - seriously wtaf??? I have been offered a refund minus original postage which I begrudgingly accepted last night as my patience wore through a fortnight ago... Then I check my email and instead of a paypal notification I got this; Thanks for your time. I apologize for any inconvenience again. We're arranging to refund to you, please check your paypal account in 48 hours. Would you please leave us a positive feedback if you are satisfied with our service? Thanks in advance. Hope for your kind understanding and help. If you have any other problems, please feel free to get in touch with us. Kind regards, When I paid you, you take my money instantaneously. Yet when you sell me below-sub-standard-not-fit-for-purpose-crap, and I want my money back, which you've enjoyed the benefit of and effectively had an interest free loan sponged off of me for nye on 2 months, you say it will take up to 48hrs to make a payment that would amount to less then you've probably got kicking around in the office swear jar, and then you dare to ask for positive feedback! Kindly refund me my pittance, then F**K OFF YOU PEDANTIC USELESS PR1CKS ...6, 7, 8, 9, 10...Aaand calm. That's better.

Some short onboards from this (last?) years MacauGP that ought to be shared, if it'll work properly... Firstly Peter Hickman and Martin Jessop on alternating front and rear cams. and my favorite I've seen is this in fairing gyro cam - I just end up staring at the clock thinking that any engine that can pull and drive from 3500revs and bounce the limiter at 15 grand really is some piece of kit, or is that just me?

A nice big new cooling vent in the back of the block???

Is there anything that can be done about embedding videos, I understand that you have to copy and paste the link, instead of drag and drop just like the old version, but it seems you have to be in a certain place on the post you are writing, and have to right click, paste, then hit enter to get the vid to embed; Ctrl V then enter does not work, simply pasting the link does not embed via either way, and then to top it off twice out of the 3 times i tried the vid doesn't embed regardless of what trick I do. Also is there a way of resizing images pasted into posts as well, I need to stop stuff from google images being massive on the page. Cheers.

Use the washer bit from your crank puller and a small 3 arm bearing puller wrapped around your crank and freewheel inner body, i.e. as close to the bb axle you can get, but the pointy end on the threaded part has to be ground flat for it to work. Just apply medium-light tension with the puller and tap the back of the crank arm with a mallet at the pedal end, then repeat til it comes off.

Because the Christmas Spirit is alive and kicking...

This is the 10min edited version to the above link which shows just the north loop at night, including more of the lap used after the transition cut midway though the carousel on the above extended 30min version. With either version. do yourself a favour - Plug into some good speakers/headphones, load it up in HD, Turn all the lights off so wherever you are is pitch black, and properly immerse yourself into that GT3-R Porsche at 12 o'clock at night, on your own in the pissing rain, with the steering wheel pointing the wrong way and it's 5th gear aquaplaning in a straight line...

What's the reason for not setting up EVO/Evo2 without the magura booster and using a 2bolt with loads of adjustment like a trialtech or tensile? Or drill/file out the bottom holes on a 4 bolt version so that it accepts a longer m6 bolt for the Vbrake bolt? Or failing that, why not make a booster from scratch out of some 1mm or 2mm plate mild steel? I did this for my Zoot - just by winging it, but you could easily copy an existing item and adjusting the dimensions to what is needed. For the current mod I made a 2 bolt (without booster spacers) by hacking the bridge/brace off a pair of tesco bike forks with a grinder, measured the bolt centers, worked out my tyre clearances, marked it out with a sharpie and set at it. Then finished off with a couple of coats of poundshop black spray paint. It works just as well as the T/tech 2bolt on the fourplay, weighs nigh on the same, and was essentially free cos I weighed in the donor bike with some other scrap and got my money back EDIT: Telling slight lies... Because I use standard Magura clamps without flat tops, there are a couple of KMC Z510 rollers in there as bolt spacers so the booster doesn't foul the clamps - I actually had to add more than I needed because the booster was sooo stiff.

I might not word this correctly, but I think you are looking at this a bit skewed. In my mind stating/using how high the BB axle center is from the floor is irrelevant/not comparable to the default measurement I am used to. Trials measures the distance from an imaginary line strung across the wheel bolt/axle centers, upwards (if it goes down the frame ain't gonna be any good for trials realistically) to the center of the BB bolt/axle. Basically in simplistic practical terms think of the stated BB height measurement as this (beware that head angle has a great effect on this analogy, as does stem angle, bar angle and even crank arm length); A low BB frame will have a balance point on the back wheel similar to a manualing bmx. A high BB trial frame will have a very upright balance point on the back wheel with the front wheel high in the air. The former will spin, manual and bunnyhop and the latter simply won't, but will sit up and beg on the back wheel, gap and sidehop better/easier than a low BB bike ever will. Is that any clearer??

I'm surprised to see someone relatively local pop up on here, I thought I knew of everyone up this way, or have you just started out/got back to riding or something? Anyway, I'm only over the water in Barrow, I know which way up to hold a cam, certainly well enough to make it look decent, I don't mind bolting other people's cameras to what limited camera gear I've got, and I'd rather meet new people than be snobby about who I ride with. I think i'm safe in saying the small gaggle of us that I ride with have similar attitudes. Winter's kind of stopped play for now, the usual near perpetual grey rainy misery I've become too accustomed too, cold nights and intermittent injuries have kinda killed most if not all motivation to ride for now (short of riding barrow indoor skatepark on the inspired). But I've said I'm gonna make an effort to get a ride out going after new years so long as people's plans coincide, the weather is alright and the trains aren't f***ed up like they usually are. Ciaran.

Time to try this tagging crap out for size.... @Jolfa I figured as much myself. @Muel Yeah not only was this sold as brand new but this business is one of those jobs where they (summarizing here but hardly beyond imagination) just buy boxes of any old thing without giving two cares about what it is and just list anyway. I mean I know one of these buys would bite me someday, but price is kinda king here - if I could afford the retail of the proper item I wouldn't pissing around with ebay's bargain bucket sloppy seconds in the first place would I? I open the dispute another time when I've not had a beer, that way I can't balls it up by not composing it properly; I was leaning towards that way anyway, but cheers peeps, just occasionally I need to check I not being, to use @MadManMike's expression, a cnut.

I bought some RAM that is faulty (computer does not boot, RAM light on, swap back to known RAM, computer boots) from a english speaking chinese buisness on ebay I've previously had success with, and whilst seemingly being all smiley helpful n sh1t when sending back replies to my messages, what they're actually doing is giving me the run around and fobbing me off. URRGHFF. This next email will the 3rd where I ask for a refund. General conscientious time: When do you reckon it's justified to send ebay after them? After this time? After that? Now? I should have done so already? Thoughts please.

Just a simplistic two pence but, Step one; Grab a cold one of your choice. Step two: Go out to the workshop. Step three: Build Civics. Step four: repeat as necessary until brum brums can be achieved. Outcome: A busy body is a focused but idle mind and you'll have something physical to show for your winter come nice weather. EDIT: re read above post, if you're gonna be up at 3/4am anyway you could be up to something productive, like shiny wisecos, rods and bigends :-]

Dear Warner, take your copyright policy and shove it. Regards, In similar but unrelated news, Then why has it been on my playlist for 14odd months and worked every time you total bunch of tits??

That seatstay to bb bridge (that's what I'm calling it anyway cos it can hardly be called a seattube anymore can it ? - there's certainly no seat and there isn't a tube!) is a brilliant idea, It's like a zoo! wings or an onza t-rex but shaved down to a minimum - proper smart that. So are the little crossover clips, I like that. The clearances are tight though? Unless that tire is massive, thus tall, doesn't look like more than 2 mabye 3mm of space ?? This a simple 'just curious' but; How's the ability to run a wider chain if you chose? I've had a frame with tight chain/seatstay rubbage before and it suuucks, especially if the hub on there is already pretty narrow, so it my case I was a bit stuffed at the time. Crank arm to slave clearance looks small/tight as well?

Tapping out the hubs on a phase works just fine. Use an M6 tap to a depth of 30mm or so, this also just happens to be the depth where the shank of my dormer tap tapers outwards and won't go anymore. I do it to every wheel i get with that style of externally threaded hollow axle. I even did it when using skewers on my then commuter - just in case some smart arse pr1ck at college faffed with my bike, which eventually did happen, and i had to ride (Very carefully) 2 miles without a rear skewer so I could rig up a bolt and washer affair & make the rest of my way home, but without that thread in there i'd have been screwed. On the other question, thought about buying/making up something like a heatsink tensioner? Can be done quite easily using some scrap material (baked bin can etc., cut and drilled mechano style) and a metal engineers ruler for the spring and the surface that rubs against the chain, all bolted together using whats laying about. It would nearly eliminate the hanger all together, you'd just use it to do up your hub bolt into and the rest of it underneath can be done away with. Looks really tidy as well.

scratch this, I refreshed and you'd answered my question.

Ah ok. So I had some of the details right, on some parts I was horribly wrong though! Again that crank system looks really smart and beefy. Is there a way that some sort of spline to thread adapter could be made for these cranks, to allow the use of a screw on sprocket? As it is, If I was in the market for a new frame, this would be the dealbreaker, since I would have to give up using a Pro2, and I would actively avoid anything that would force me into using a freewheel.

My first impression is that looks smart as f**k. I've always appreciated atomz and crewkerz stuff for it's apparent quality and unconventional ideas. Not conforming to a norm is always a bold move, especially so in a small world like biketrial. Quick question though... AS30 is the BB standard where the bearings a press fitted into the frame like an echo, but using much larger dia. bearings, in conjunction with an axle that comes out like a BMX 3 piece / hollowtech style (instead of being fixed in by the bearings like the Echo/Zoo! system), is that all correct? Instead of BB30 which has tapered cups in frame, and resembles an internal headset turned sideways?

If I understand the situation properly... Double nut the bolt that is still free, or use a longer bolt if yours isn't long enough. Take the hub bolt, wind on two nuts up to the bolt head, thread in the bolt to the axle all the way. Now hold the bolt steady and crank one of the nuts into the end of the axle and use the other as a locknut. Hold these with the spanner and undo the other side of the hub (the one that's stuck) like normal, then reverse the previous steps to get the double nut n bolt out. Does that all make sense?

Roulon. They were a small batch production of (russian?) TF specials where the 4bolt mounts were wrong and needed a 20in wheel to run rim brake, and to run a 19 you needed to run disc. I guess that would qualify?

CSC already had a go a that, Have no idea how successful it was, I just know of their existence. Rim distance was controlled by rotating a threaded slave and clamp from memory... EDIT: found some photos here

My 170mm trialtech forged cranks are over 3yrs old and take/have taken a total pasting. Nothing more to be said, just buy them! (170mm would be my preference for every wheelsize, any shorter is too, er, 'spinny', when cranking about, and 175mm spread my feet to far apart). Also look for onza/tensile BB's, They can be found cheap if your savvy (£19 posted from uk), I've found no better value on the market and use nothing else. For the rear sprocket get a Trialtech or Onza 12t screw on item, does what it's suppose to do for around a tenner. You generally can't/won't go too far wrong buying onza and trialtech bits, massively avoid trialtech 108.9 freewheels though, owned 2 of em - total dog poop.