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I've just wrote this out in a topic and thought that since the question will no doubt be asked again that it should become a how to, I've no pictures as yet but next time I do this to a brake I will add some. Never done one of these before so here goes. Feel free to add amendments or question something I've written - I think I've covered everything. How to free a stuck piston from a Magura HS11, HS22, HS33 master cylinder and derrivitives (NOT Echo) -Thoughly service Magura HS11, HS22, HS33 and derrivitives (for Echo only Section 2 applies) Section 1 Prerequisites. You are going to need: A working knowledge of how to bleed Magura HS series brakes, by doing a 'bath bleed' with water (personally I refer to this as a bucket bleed), and, if you chose to oil bleed, how to bleed with syringes. A track pump with both schreader (car valve) and presta (road bike valve) A spare shoud nut and piece of Magura hose with an olive pre tightened on it. A broken crossover with a barbed fitting will do, but it's really not the same due to the extra backpressure created by the smaller m6 fitting. Penetrating Fluid. Ideally GT85. WD40 is passable. 3in1 style oil. 2 good size, clean containers in which to water bleed the brake. I cut two washed out 4 pint milk bottles in half with a craft knife or scissors & use the bottom sections, for example. An open-ended 8mm spanner for the shroud nuts. A proper set of good quality ball ended allen keys. A multi hex key set will not do! In absoute worst case scenario (I've been here believe me), a small blow torch on low-medium heat. A good size kitchen gas hob could be a substitute. SKILL LEVEL: I would describe this task as fairly advanced - it requires a dedicated workspace (even if only for a short time period), a reasonable amount of mechanical skill, tools and equipment. Ham-fisted newbies could quite easily trash what to others would be an otherwise easily repaired, seviceable brake, either though ignorance or using innadequate/totally the wrong tools. METHOD With the brake still all fully assembled, but removed from the bike; 1) Take the leverblade pivot bolt out. (5mm Allen key) 2) Wiggle the lever blade out. 3) Move the Tpa ball and rod round 90deg so that they are sat flat against the lever blade, facing away from the pivot. 4) Put the lever blade and pivot bolt back with everything like this. Tighten like normal. 5) Take out the grub screw in the master, the one where the top bleed hose goes. 6) Screw in your piece of hose & shroud nut. Nip it down with an good fitting 8mm spanner (NOT AN ADJUSTABLE!!!) 7) Take the other end of this hose and plug it into your track pump. In mine I have to unscrew the presta side, slide the fitting over the magura hose, wiggle the end into the little olive in the pump and then tighten the fitting up. Whatever you have to do this junction needs to be good & snug or else you're wasting your time. 8) Spray some GT85 down the bore of the master past the piston. Leave to soak for 5mins. Maybe repeat a couple of times. 9) Slowly pump some air in. A well lubed working piston should pop out with little fuss at 30ish PSI. A sticky one at anything up to 80 PSI. If It's being a real bitch, I've been there... See * below. If it has worked; 10) Take the lever blade out again. Find a corner of the garage/wherever you're doing this without a lot of stuff in, preferablely with some form of padding, the bottom of a cardbox works well. This is to stop the piston and spring richocheting off god knows where - that sh*t can honestly go miles, so for the love of all things holy point the master away from you . 11) Pump. HARD. Hopefully that should have given off a satisfying POP sound as the piston was shot out at a fair ol' lick, and all is well. Find the piston and spring, lube the piston with silicon spray lube for a racing line, tensile, or generally any aftermaket metal piston. For a standard plastic magura one you might want to lightly & evenly sand the skirt (the end nearest the handlebar when in use) with 400 grit wet and dry. Use trial and error methodology, or you'll not be riding 'til you source another piston, it doesn't need much sanding off. Then I recommend Petrolieum Jelly (vaseline) for lube. Or submerge the piston in a cap full of magura oil in either case (this is the safest bet). Reassemble the master and skip steps 9.1-9.3. * If it hasn't worked: Well, I did one with a mate once where it took an indicated 140psi to shift a swelled plastic piston off the bottom of the bore. Scary as f**k and I thought my pump was going to die... This is where the heat comes in. 9.1) With the system lightly pressurised spray some more GT85 down the bore. It might just pop at this stage. If not; 9.2) Grip the bar clamp with some pliers, and give the area if the master around the piston a lick of heat with a medium flame, ideally as little as is needed, and pump some more. 9.3) Repeat?? Then you might be in trouble but In 10yrs and counting of trials, often dealing with preowned parts of questionable condition I've not been defeated yet. Section 2 SKILL LEVEL: P1$$ Easy For the rest of the system. When you've got the master working, bucket bleed the brake with the master in a separate container, and mix in a couple of drops of washing up liquid, just enough to make a layer of bubbles, no more. Seal the brake up, and chuck the water from the buckets. Pump the brake for 5mins. Now bucket bleed the brake again and (in my experience anyway) look at all the dislodged old oil residue and grot appear in the waste water bucket. Chuck the water again, and bleed however you see fit, water in a bath/bucket/other or oil in a syringe. Never mix water and Magura oil, it seems to produce the grot you just flushed out. After this hold one slave from moving with your thumb, pull the lever fully to make the slave fully extend, and pour some 3-in-1 type oil down past there into the gap. Work it in there by pumping the lever, repeat, then swap sides. You may have to lube the piston and master again, as the washing up liquid may have washed away the lube you just put there, so pop the piston out, re-lube and bleed again. Job done.

Arrr trade secret... Nah honestly, It's something that just came to me one time when I got some brakes that were slow from having a filthy old factory oil bleeds sat in them - I 'fairy bled' (what I've christened it) one and visible lumps/chunks of black grot poured out of the slaves. When I pulled my hand out of the waste bucket after tighening the bleed bolt I had an oil slick tide mark on my forearm . You'll find that the brake will be slow returning after you have flushed it though, as (I summise) you've also washed away any lube, hence the instructions to re-lube the slaves. IME you have to be ready to break the master apart again to redo any lube you put around the piston, but it's worth it - that brake has seen 5 different bikes now, and it's had nothing more than a couple of top up water bleeds & some wilko 3in1 on the slaves when they get dry.

Yeah cyclescheme doesn't cut it really, I'd rather scour out a good bank loan or credit card then do a balance transfer and get the choice of bike and retailer, making sure I get from a good guy not winstanlies or hellfrauds. I wouldn't/don't like the thought of being forced into anything; and then paying for the privilidge? No thank you.

Prerequisites. You are going to need: a track pump with both schreader (car valve) and presta (road bike valve) a spare shoud nut and piece of Magura hose with an olive pre tightened on it. A broken crossover will do, but it's really not the same due to the extra backpressure created by the smaller m6 fitting. Ideally GT85. WD40 is passable. In absoute worst case scenario (been here believe me) a small blow torch on low-medium heat. A good size kitchen hob would be a substitute. METHOD With the brake still all fully assembled; 1) Take the lever pivot bolt out. 2) Wiggle the lever blade out. 3) Move the Tpa ball and rod round 90deg so that they are sat flat against the lever blade, facing away from the pivot. 4) Put the lever blade and pivot bolt back with everything like this. Tighten like normal. 5) Take out the grub screw in the master, the one where the top bleed hose goes. 6) Screw in your piece of hose & shroud nut. Nip it down with an good fitting 8mm spanner (NOT AN ADJUSTABLE!!!) 7) Take the other end of this hose and plug it into your track pump. In mine I have to unscrew the presta side, slide the fitting over the magura hose, wiggle the end into the little olive in the pump and then tighten the fitting up. Whatever you have to do this junction needs to be good & snug or else you're wasting your time. 8) Spray some GT85 down the bore past the piston. Leave to soak for 5mins. Mabye repeat a couple of times 9) Slowly pump some air in. A well lubed working piston should pop out at 30ish PSI. A sticky one at anything up to 80 PSI. If It's being a real bitch, I've been there... See * below. If it has worked; 10) Take the lever blade out again. Find a corner of the garage/wherever you're doing this without a lot of stuff in, preferablely with some form of padding to stop the piston and spring richocheting off god knows where - that sh*t can honestly go miles, so for the love of all things holy point the master away from you . 11) Pump. HARD. Hopefully that should have shot the piston out at a fair ol' lick, and all is well. Find the piston and spring, lube the piston with silicon lube for a racing line piston, for a standard plastic magura one you might want to lightly sand the skirt (the handlebar end) with 400 grit wet and dry, then I recommend Petrolieum Jelly (vaseline) for lube. Or submerge the piston in a cap full of magura oil in either case (safest bet). Reassemble the master and bleed. * I did one with a mate once where it took an indicated 140psi to shift it off the bottom of the bore. Scary as f**k and I thought my pump was going to die... This is where the heat comes in. 9.1) With the system pressurised spray some more GT85 down the bore. It might just pop at this stage. If not 9.2) Grab the bar clamp with some pliers, and give the area if the master around the piston a lick of heat with a medium flame, ideally as little as is needed, and pump some more. 9.3) Repeat?? Then It's being a real C-unit but In 10yrs of trials I've never been defeated yet. As for the rest of the system, When you've got the master working, bucket bleed the brake with the master in a separate container, and mix in a couple of drops of washing up liquid. Seal the brake up, and chuck the water from the buckets. Pump the brake for 5mins. Now bucket bleed the brake again and (in my case anyway) look at all the dislodged sh*te appearing in the waste water bucket. After this hold one slave from moving with your thumb, pump the lever to make the slave fully extend,and pour some 3-in-1 type oil down past there into the gap. Work it it there by pumping the lever, repeat, then swap sides. Maggie service. Done.

ROUNDS, as in you go round the rim from the valve back to the valve, then repeat 3 more times, not 4 full rolls of duct tape... Yes, it did/does weigh the same as the tube that the conversion replaced, so no, there isn't any weight advantage, but you gain a 'feel' that probably can't quite be conveyed over the internet - it's kind of like the conforming and wrap-around-an-object feel of a Der Kaiser but without the harsh and jarring deadness. At the same time it's got the 'pop' of a soft rear mod tyre, but without the uncontrolled fast rebound that can fling you all over the place, it's just slightly slower, i'd describe it as 'bouncy but not scary' I also see no reason lower pressures would burb either, as I said above my install on the inspired failed because of a not at all tubeless tyre w/ porous sidewalls, low TPI count and inconsisioncies in the plys, not my conversion leaking at the bead join. Also worth noting that with tubeless I find that the pressure has to be increased to account for the sidewall now bearing all the weight, not having the thickness of the tube as a crutch. Surely this would only decrease the chance of burbing further? The OKO sealent also dries the a sticky glue like consistiency around the bead/rim/tubegasket. I'm confident enough that I reckon I'll try it again when I get new tyres for the mod.

I got it to work on my inspired using 4 rounds of quality, plyable ducttape (3m I think) to seal the rim, a halo combat, a 20inch tube cut down the central seam like you're filleting a fish (when stretched over the rim this is both a gasket and your tubeless valve) & the aforementioned OKO sealent thinned down with water. I built up the central section using hard foam between the rim and tubegasket and then fitted the tyre on top. At no point did I need a compressor, just used my donkeys old track pump. The only reason it didn't work is that is wasn't a tubeless ready tyre (a Schwalbe table top) and the air leaked through the weave of the sidewall, but aside from that I'd say I've got it down pat - the actual conversion/bead didn't leak a drop. If I was on a hex I'd be getting some TLR tyres on there as fast as I could. If you've the skills/inclination I would say f**kin do it, for the few rides my tubeless worked the extra compliance and suppleness felt bloody mint. It took away the harshness of a 45psi+ front tyre, like letting pressure out would, but without any (more) tyre roll when it came to spins. And the increase on grip was nuts - I started doing 180 endos on curbs again trying to make it slip - didn't happen.

I have a rather odd 3 piece euro I got with some chrome 24seven cranks I've since given to my mate as a thank you gift, that has four 20mm internal diameter bearings (yes 20mm, the axle is a 19mm 8spline at the crank and then steps up 1mm just to be a PITA), 2 of which are scrap. Anyway point is, this lead me to google dredge forum posts & scour the online industrial bearing places, and whilst I couldn't find a 20mmID (profile do a 20mm, but f*ck £40 for it), gave up and changed tack, what I do remember is finding loads of the bearings you're after, except you need to be looking for a 3/4in ID (19.05mm), not 19.00mm and think laterally. From memory bearings for a 19mm mid BB (but I repeat that the actual size is 3/4in / 19.05mm, not 19.00mm) will fit for example, something i distincly remember pissing me off about this, erm, "unique" 20mm euro BB setup chilling in the cupboard next to me. EDIT: Just remembered that the ID of all euro BB cups is 31mm (well the cross section of the 5 or so I just measured says I remember right anyway), a fact you only find out when you try and bodge in a 32x20xsomething 24seven BB bearing into a random BB cup cos it only came with one cup... Sooo, what I would do is; 1) go get the dirtiest cheepy cheap 19mm mid and put the bearings into a euro BB cup Or 2) buy something like this x2, and put them side by side to gain the width, slap any old BB cup over the top and thread in one of the bb cups in further. If need be add 1mm of spacer in between the frame and crank arm, though I should have thought with three piece you just do up the preload bolts more, a half mil each side should be no bother.

Anyone else recognise that 24 as an onxa zoot frame, bash and rear rim? And the front rim is same one because branded a couple of years back. The frame is identical, save the internal seat clamp and that the seatpost presumably moves, right down to the CNC bb yoke that snapped on mine. So it's a bag of factory parts bin sh*te with the model name referencing a part of Alaska used as the location for that 'gold rush' tv show off of discovery (@Dman). Outstanding... The mod is an Onza clone (T-pro or bird) as well, but with forks that are too tall for it, and that look suspiciously like the ones in my mission prodigy, another bike that was made out of stock size/shape/length tubing to sponge money out of a sport/newly discovered market (BMX is full of these - Mafia bikes with a US BB & one piece crank anyone?) Ahh it's like going back ten years...

Fair enough I did leave myself open to that. I'm in no way local and have only been past it in a van going to somewhere like ukmail or the docks. I remember it as being on * or close to a 2 lane city road that ends up going past that massive red brick factory with the 100ft odd high chimney? My mate lives out broughton way and just ferries us places, to be honest there's times i'm not really sure where i am, and It all somehow looks different on the bike anyhow. edit: * just remembered where I'm on about has a shopping park opposite, maybe a different entrance?

How about on the video editing side of things? The best thing I've found is an open source clone of WMM, not bad, not great either.

I'd like to say "ahh s'no problem like", but honestly, It took me the better part of an hour to do that write up, mainly thwarted by the fact that I couldn't remember where the moon rocks are, in relation to something on a map that is (for ref. it is Glynn Square), and the only postcode I could find stated (actually google dredged an old TF thread about the comp ~2012 as it happens) was about a half - 3/4 mile closer to the tower (about where the steps that are also a sea defence are, i.e. no where f*cking near). This then left me on an aimless wild goose chase trying to cross reference blackpool north train station with the pay and display carpark across from that building with the stairs in, that you use to get off the upper prom and down to the seawall/bottom of the moonrocks, Grrr. This collamatous pain in the arse was the motivation to edit and amend my post - The usual sketchy directions like 'find the roundabout and you're there' ain't no good to anyone, hence the cooridinates. Using coordinates you'll never be lost by more than 10 metres. Either way you are very welcome - it's the kind of information I'd want to see popping out of my computer if I was a noob, it's only fair. I'd just like to make one contridiction to the stuff Mark said, deep dale is nearer half hour away from the docks by bike, using my experience of once doing an "oh sh*t I'm late for the train" dash from the docks back to the train station, past halfords, down that road with the shunting sidings on, bare left at the car dealership and walk/push up that sodding great hill up to town, but did I buggery do it in less than 10mins - aaand I damn near keeled over in ticket hall doing so. I'd guesstimate that PNE stadium is at least that far again, unless there is some other way I don't know about of course. Or my sense of direction has had a fail...

I'm about 20miles, possibly less, as the crow flies from blackpool, rain has been horrific all day. Sod even being out in that! The second point, well, it's blackpool, so if you missed the vom, piss and hungover hen do's then you did alright. NOT my fave place in the least.

@proN1low I can't help with riders but if you ride preston docks as the weather gets better you will most likely meet some people over the course of the summer. As far as I know people from all over the north still have it as a 'I want to ride there' place to ride. You might actually run into me at some point if I get the opportunity (I'm 70miles away by road or a 3hr train) I've copied the coordinates off google maps to give you a bit of a head start as to where to ride, unfortunately a postcode isn't accurate enough in this case. Open google maps up and copy/paste them into the search Spot no.1: 53°45'41.0"N 2°44'25.7"W (Look for/smell the fried food van) Spot 2: 53°45'39.8"N 2°44'30.5"W and 53°45'37.1"N 2°44'36.7"W (these are in a ton of videos, including a lot of tarty's vids) Spot 3 (optional): 53.758670, -2.750177 Hope that's helpful in some way :-) EDIT: You know what? I'll do the same for other places I've ridden just to get you started; Morecambe Skatepark - Traditional meeting place for group rides as the train station is across the road. Morecambe Seafront: Highly recommended mixed street, TGS and rocks (Check tarty, Ali C and Flipp vids) 'Fountains' '6ft wall gap' 'second levels' 'The bin gap' 'Climbing wall' Blackpool Moon Rocks - 53°49'59.4"N 3°03'20.9"W Miles of grippy natural rock to play on - There is also the karting practice track in the middle so sometimes some entertainment. Trek on up the prom and cleveleys promenade can be good if you want to chill-ride in the sun and watch the scenery - 53.833165, -3.055806 That lot should keep you going nicely. Get out there and you should meet people.

Yeah the black with green graphic and the black with orange graphic frames either went at the bb yoke or cracked on the seattube/toptube join from doing spins. What you're saying would fix that.

From memory the same alu and same design was used in both zoots - that was the case when I bought one anyways. I'd also have another, Mine had identical geo to a mk1 Fourplay & was £450 for a full build bike. They're flawed but I warn people not to dismiss them. @bing Mine did this: All I heard as I landed from a little bunnyhop was that inimitable sound of metal shearing and looked down to see this on a 6 week old frame Still rode it home though...

As above but the other way round, to roll about, be spinny and do manuals of any meaning, above 40psi is the norm, for me it's around 42-44 in the front with a schwalbe table top. In the back I've a maxxis holy roller in which I put 50 psi and let a pound or 2 out till it feels right. For your tyres i'd use this but add a touch more in the front as you have the squirm of the knobbles to account for, but maybe less in the back as the stiky's sidewalls are rather thick. 45psi both ends would be a good start.

Keep hearing this being advertised on the radio, what was the "world exclusive tribute to Joey Dunlop" like?

@Pete.M What I meant by is is the frame straight and aligned is that I work with battered steel frames alot, and I've 3 steel bikes over 30 YO, non of which were or are (two are WIP) straight (alas my carlton is banana eske :-{ ) or level across the dropouts, Explanatory random pic from google it gives a symptom like what you are describing, the wheel lies across the frame, for want of a better example, like saturns rings. Is it possible the driveside has been smacked upwards by a (repeated) dirty basher sidehop fail(s) at some point? From how I read your description if anything I'd say you need to file the NDS vertically, not fore - aft, but you're the one with the frame in hand not me.

One of my observations I've made as walked around and stayed in road race paddocks over the years and gleaned some inside knowledge is that the last bit all kind of depends on whether having the "right look" is important or not - for those where it is, they will have the 3-500K+ race home, 8 bike awning with a mechanic and toolbox stack to each rider, team leathers, petrol starter motor, front and rear paddock stands, a £500 cart/pull along wagon thing to carry the fuel and tyres up to the holding area etc etc. Then you get those, even in the posh end of the paddock, who do it the way it used to (in my eyes, should) be done - A merc 508D van with a fiamma or an old Iveco horsebox or similar, the paddock stand = 3bits of box section welded to accept a rear set, the starter motor is a bloke called big Dave and the bit of grass outside the awning, and the stupid cart thing... Just don't bother and carry it! Basically what i'm saying is once you cut the bs, and realise that poncy paddock bling doesn't buy pistons and avgas, these things are... well, still crippling to be honest - but, as i'm sure you're aware, you don't have to be a gazzilionare to run an old race bike. no matter what it's pedigree. That Porsche on the other hand...

@Pete.M I misunderstood, I read it as you were trying to take the rim to the NDS. With any 9spd wheel the spokes are going to be tighter and the NDS are going to be slack, in my experience slacker than is ideal, that's why dishless hubs (pro2trial for example) are stronger It shouldn't be as bad you say though. have you been through the simple things like is the axle straight etc. I'd give rotating the axle through the 4points of a compass in the dropouts a go, just to see if the outcome of where the rim lands changes. For that matter is your frame straight and the dropouts aligned? It's also possible (cos i've done it more than once) when you build a wheel in a frame, to tension a rim perfectly straight according to the brake, but is actually built off axis. So you put the untensioned wheel in the frame, but the hub isn't set straight across the dropouts when you true the rim to the brake, so then you put the wheel in something else, another frame, fork, jig, and your perfect wheel looks like a right mess. I'd check annoying crap like that.

@Pete.M Pics? Kind of a plan and rear view would be helpful. If you still need more leftward dish my prognosis is that your drive side spokes are (now) not long enough. What happens if you add more tension to just the NDS?

@Adam@TartyBikes Absolute radio just started playing satisfaction by the rolling stones. This is some massive cosmic wind up!

@Tom Booth @Adam@TartyBikes I signed in specially to write this after reading those Both of you have a like and a "bravo", I'm still creasing...

@Levi / onza pro At the risk of lecturing, please read and understand what has taken me a long time to type out. Avid SD7 brake levers are must for me, and recommend them to every noob with a cable brake I meet. You will release so much power from those BB5 brakes. Those Onza levers in particular are flexey, a pretty horrid shape that hurts both the back of your index finger (nearest the thumb) on the front of the lever blade and your middle finger when the back of the rather square and sharp lever blade smacks into the middle knuckle. Above that they bend really easily - any fo force applied from leaning over/on them when doing endos etc will bend them downwards, or pulling them hard when you have the bike stood up on the back wheel/learning how to do this will bend them upwards and it doesn't take long for them to snap. SD7's are night and day levels of difference. Top tip for when you get new levers: Never ever crank down on the bolt clamping brake levers, you want the lever tight enough it does not move whilst you are riding, but loose enough that if you bail it will rotate round the bar when smacked, you just undo the bolt a touch, put the lever back, tighten and carry on, instead of going home. Changing the bars to some aluminium ones is advisable if they are the steel ones (check with a fridge magnet, the alu ones aren't a problem) as mine on the full build Zoot I bought, new from tartys, were heavy, uncomfortable, weak as piss and they bent in about the same time scale as the brake lever took to snap. Get Trialtech foam grips. Absolutely essential. Those particular pedals aren't cut out for trials either, they snap, usually after a short space of time and pretty violently when they do go, and I have a half-healed crack in my right ankle that hurts every time it's cold out to prove it. Change them to some Wellgo MG-1's. Take a look at what chain is on there; If it anything other than a KMC z710 kool, z610HX or z510HX get it off as fast as possible and put one of those on - the z510HX is my unquestionable recommendation. Take it from me, having your knee cartilage needlessly rearranged by the bolts clamping the stem to the fork or some wall inflicted dental work because your shit chain just snapped is something that you do not need in your life. Changing the forks would save a significant amount of weight but I'd hold off for a while. Take heed from someone whose been doing this trials stuff half their life, and you'll have a cracking little bike to learn on and go to group rides with - A sorted well set up bike and a good attitude towards your riding and the people you end up riding with, and you'll be progressing and getting good in no time at all.

@Jeremy I think you're on you own as far this forum goes, anyone flicking through these pages on the whole isn't going to have a birthday in anything past the 80's/90's, let alone know about motor trials in the 60's, even through I'm only just 23 I would count myself as the exception, as I love history and old bikes/motorbikes and would love to own/ride a well specced pre65 trials bantam or similar. That's not to say I don't believe you, as I marshalled with a guy on the isle of man who upon recognising what my inspired (my profile picture) was, and is used for; started telling me the story of how in the early to mid 60's he and his mates used to put cut down lambretta or vespa or mobylette forks into scrap pre-war bicycles, thus inventing the bicycle trial bike and biketrial as a sport, set out some home made sections in the back field and try and emulate their heroes like Sammy Miller, and later on people like Mick Andrews and Yrjo Vesterinen etc. - not least as this was around the time period where the Isle of man hosted the ISDT 3 times in ten years. I know it was more of a speed event but he said it was inspirational none the less. Given the absolutely wonderful, mystical, un-portrayable vibe the island has and that this guy was manx born and bred, I had no reason to not to 100% believe him and stand there drinking in the oral history. For all I know know he could have been an to someone like Steve Colley or David & Juan Knight... The island is that sort of place. Ciaran.