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At the moment my brake is a 4 year old caliper, tektro wavey rotor, the a2z pads off tarty and sd7 lever with a well GT85'd wilko cable with plastic ferrules. Yet despite this cheap, slightly thrown together set-up, it is more than powerful enough for my needs, I mean it really stops, when I can get me weight far enough back so I don't re-arrange me teeth... I could make it better upgrading all this stuff (and I intend too, just for a freshen up) but there is simply no need. No doubt the saint would be better, but against BB7 buying a £200+ M810 seems daft to me. But that is for the OP to decide.

Should point out that the speed dial and setting the caliper alignment correctly really is the difference between an alright brake and a bloody good one. Also the SD7 has the range to make the brake really modulatey and yet a couple of clicks softer makes it really on/off, almost v-brake like power.

ohh yeah, on both counts. tickle it to scrub speed, squeeze and over the bars you will go

180bb7, inspired fat v's on any arms you like, Sd7 levers are a must though

Do you know which inspired rim you have? I have this inspired pro rim on a pro 2EVOT with these Double Butted vocal BMX stainless spokes and it has none of the flex you describe. (the exact opposite) I've found the spokes to be the key here. I rebuilt the same rim and hub with these and the difference over the halo Plain Guage was silly amounts of better. They are just a nicer product for about the same price as halo PG but made from a better material; the black is much, much nicer (halos look/feel like bad spray paint after 'bout a month) and the butting is tapered not stepped like sapim either. I bought them from Custom riders, in 232mm length using (separate) 16mm long araya spoke nipples. Trust me, look into it. 20quid on spokes over a new wheel seems worth it to me.

Ben as I said, I've seen photos of someone doing this... To the OP. Please don't be offended by such posts... With the amount of information and description you gave, it's a 'just checking' kinda post. Cos I gotta wonder what has happened? You changed from a newbie bike standard done for cost reasons, to a standard every mod worth it's salt is sold with when new. And yet you say it feels worse?

Forgive me for asking this (cos I have seen photographic proof of someone doing this) but you have put the 18t on the crank haven't you? What else did you replace exactly? Could higher EP give you impression stuff is lighter to crank around?

monster and rockstar fuelled nutteryness, in a bobble hat.

anyone other takers?? Bumpety bump bump.

Just don't want it to be a wasted day, for all concerned, but especially us from barrow. Hoping it holds out cos we don't get outta town as much anymore. Get down the industrial estate and 'borrow' some (pallets)?

Deffo coming now joe. bike is fixed and shouldn't ride like its pi**ed now! Is it bit wet down that way? (just thinking for state of the ground) Cos we've had 3+ days of rain up here and most stuff a wash out. It's like mid February again

Both above posts seem to be true. I agree slightly more with the fit for purpose arguement though.

The frames don't have to way that much more though, that's the daft bit. In some cases 150g and a better/differnantly designed... oh i dunno... bash mount say, or a thicker BB yoke is the difference when the a frame is 'improved', (read 'it works now lads') the next year, or after 6 months of complaints from retailers and the beta testers, us the PAYING CUSTOMER. (Deng seems to be deaf, chinese retrictions or not) Microsoft would good example of this test it on customers crap. The amount of times i've wanted to slap someone because the part that they should have bought was 'too heavy' by 50 grammes. Instead I see this type of rider spending lots of time in the tool bag with a bike that is fragile and not used for what it was made to do. Be a bike and be ridden, not cotton wooled. But If that is where the maket is so be it. Thats what the retailer has to buy in beacuse it sells. Unless a very well known retailer could start their line of products again... My TB bashring for example took so much sh8t on an old set-up that the bb snapped and bash looks like new, just needs a coat of paint. The TB bars are mint too. And strong would be less work on warranties too no doubt?

But there could be a company that explored the limits of strength using well designed products and well picked materials?? I remember not that long ago when there was the comp stuff AND the bashy TGS products. Mind you they still broke too but seemed to take more abuse back then. Aside from the street scene, there just seems to be different degrees of comp lightness to me. With mabye JAF being the exception. Does this seem fair to peeps?

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Yes Danny! There's a reference I didn't think I'd here today. Vid was good, Clip up to the white wall in blackpool is BIG, as is the preston docks fail/gap to front between the 2 ledges, bout 8ft 5 is that.

So I'm not quite talking rubbish. YAY! Boo about your cranks though.

That's a new one. Can see why it could work though.

Sorry. none exist. TR's weren't even worth the battery power... This was the ride where one set died - if that counts. Sorry if you've just bought some BTW, didn't mean to p*ss on your cornflakes or owt. As said earlier, Echo quality seems to be bi-polar at the mo'. IMO Deng is pushing the tolerances a bit too much in search on lightness that just ain't there, and the results are either perfectly fine or complete disaster. (TR cranks, SL freewheels, TR pedal axles (after a while admittedly), front TR hub axles, TR sprockets etc. etc.) There seems to be no middle ground either. I used to be a big echo fan too. On one build 75% must have been echo parts, Now I have a Deng free bike; that's how much my opinion/taste has changed. If I ever do use echo again it probably won't be the new stuff being pumped out at the moment

Yup. two sets for one mate as well as stripping the pedal threads out despite the pedals being tight and another bent them like the aforementioned cheese.

Riding inside buildings is becoming a Dougie Lampkin trademark!

Any set of TR cranks my riding group has had bent like wet paper. One mate is now using a butchered one to protect the rear disc on his manus. IMO this is a waaay better use for it. hehe My cheapy T/techs have been fine for over a year of fourplay bashing however.

^ Yeah, what about the new SL ones? They look genuinely good if some high end cranks are in order?

Gonna try me damndest to be there joe, but the bike is conspiring against me!

normally i would agree, but if he wanted to he could upgrade his cranks(and poss. BB might not be isis, can't remember) so that he doesn't have 22tooth MTB cranks anymore and his hub and his EP problem as well as significantly shedding weight(not just 10g, but a lot) and make his bike way better in one fell swoop. remember the stock bike looks like this To the OP; If you have changed the bar and stem for something more like it and put another front brake on you will have made such a difference already, best carry on that way . You have 3 options as I see it, however you buy them is up to you. (to re-iterate) : 1. Pro2/king (id go with this in hope form) 2. Rear freewheel (mabye this) and screw on hub of your choice or pull the entire drive apart 3. Cranks(BB too mabye), Bashring, Screw on hub and Front FW. - makes the biggest difference but costs the most. Hope this essay helps you fella.