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As said you are doing well, and I don't mean to sound mean, ok? But you wanted constuctive criticism, so here goes; U need to relax. slow everything down, breathe a little more. Once you relax you'll stop sh*tting yourself so much and that will cut out all the unnecessary movements and hops, and the hops you are doing to try and correct those hops. You're tense because you are nervous and the resulting stiffness in your riding style is making the bike nervous. Also I think you have the same bike as one of the noob locals where I live: Is your bike the zoo lynx frame with the BB5 brakes, jitsie stem on 20mm stackers and these bars? In which case change the bars out for something different as they don't offer anywhere like the rise needed and not enough upsweep for that kind of bike. They make the bike feel low, too over the front and the bars feel massively wide, even though at 740mm they ain't huge. All this makes his riding position and style just look horrible and he is stiff and awkward like you are in the vid. The lad i'm on about has gone for trialtech high rise, but standard trialtechs would have done as well. I highly advise that you change the bars. I hope that helps

No 185 max. I'd say an 8in is a guaranteed snap , seeing as the mount on my 4play in reinforced massively, is still only rated to 185mm by inspired, and is braced/gusseted for days, whereas that mount relies only on the strength of that plate the dropout is cut into and the join to the frame, MTB style. If it did go I'd put money on rotational force snapping the seatstay and chainstay about 2in forward (towards the BB) of the rotor top. Oh and if you've got 4pot calipers with servo wave and ice techs, (which based on the performance of ice techs on other brake platforms I've ridden like a hope 4pot and BB7, IMO the ice tech is where 60+% of the power comes from) WTF do you need 8in rotors for?? U trying to stop a truck of something? I rate 8in rotors massively OTT personally, unless you're going and killing an alp or three, but your bike, do what you will.

I'm aware of the mechanical implications of more power, i'm not 1 of these chavvy muppets who'd map it to eyeballs and then wonder why the side of block suddenly has an extra cooling hole courtesy of a lean pot and the rod making itself known. Putting the hrs in doesn't scare me either, and all mods would be considered thoroughly/massively overthought for days. Paying for it will be the challenge i'm sure, but it's the same with the bikes, and I seem to muddle through somehow. A reliable source of income would pretty much cure that though, but that's a myth as far as i'm concerned at mo Oh BTW is this like the one you mean?

I do not particularly want a Skoda, least of all a diesel estate skoda, but when using search filters like 'Insurance group 10 and under' (all i've got as a guide unless I spam my inbox with comparison site nonsense) and 'price less than £2,500' a fabia becomes the best option amongst shite like 3pot corsas. I plan on moving up a size car after a year and then mabye a more powerful octavia could be on the cards then; IDK to be honest, that's a looong time in the future from where i am now. The ones I'm toying around with are the mpg/insurance concious 1.9SDI, the 1.4TDI as I see mod potential or the 1.2 petrol as a compromise, but I'll check that out. It sounds like a keeper If I found the right one. Reckon it'd survive a light boost along with that map?

My favourite candidate for my first car at the mo is a skoda fabia V1 (mabye even the estate) with the non turbo 1.9D lump. If you think about it your requirements for a car currently, will be similar to mine when I eventually get driving - since you clearly like VAG and you want a cheap to run bike mover/daily/trips to away rides mile muncher, like I do, It's got to be worth a look eh? EDIT: Plus because, unlike me, you must have an insurance history, there is always the option of something like the (PD90? Is that right?) turbo version mapped out and played with?? First example that came up on google Just an alternative Idea though... EDIT2: Huh ha. Just decided to browse that random site I linked - check their projects page. Caddys, Ibizas, Skodas, A4b8s, Golfs, a new jetta and a mid low 10s 2.0L swapped nitroused up drag racing Arosa! Edit3: Last one I promise, but I found a vid of it. mj0wSE4LHOU

I know a lad from away that had this happen to a racing line master/full brake - the split clamp one not the (trials addict list it as the LS7?) 05 maggie improvement I have. Where it was machined in between the bar clamp bolts like hope do, the tool must have gone too deep by a fraction, made the wall thickness weak and it seeped out over period but increasing got worse . Its a pain I know, and I have been on the wrong end of it often enough, but that is what warranties are designed for; that one in a thousand where no visual QC inspection could have spotted it. Having said that, in the world of bikes, some of the stuff that arrives though my door I feel is appalling at times. If a brand burns me like that soon become very stubborn about their products, and I'll be the first to admit it too. I too, am becoming like this about magura's later/latest offerings.

EDIT: Doesn't Matter, I worked out you weren't addressing me right after I posted. Again this has been explained and I'm cool with it so the thread can be shut.

I know of two people that have put left in right and vice versa, one was pedals even though V8s are marked L and R and the other did it with a BB into a brand new frame (oh dearry me) and had to get it tapped to save the frame. If it dont go, dont force it...

More 8x4 hardboard and duct tape the edges down. It's what we did when we set up camp for Manx grand prix fortnight last time as it's nice and temporary (you said your renting, there's a possibility you might have to bail sharpish) and soaks up fluids like a goodn. When It's dead change it out for more or double up. Having said that last time at the southern 100 dad manage to bum some vinyl flooring off *namedroppingisntcool* and it was complete luxury so decide for yourself. Either way we stick some bedroll style grey dense foam underneath the lot (the underlays not a bad substitute) and it comes highly recommended by the guy we know who fell asleep on it after a session on the Okells!

Arh I see. Alright then I retract my earlier slightly stroppy post and this now redundent thread can be closed if you wish Mr. Fox. Cheers.

You've deffo got the axle slammed in the dropouts? Off the wall idea but is the rim dished to one side? That would drag the rim downwards towards the dropouts. Beyond that file the dropout about a mm towards the BB. I'd personally go rear V brake with heatsink adapters as you'd have al the adjustment you'd need, but that may have to do with me having it all already

In fairness gruff it was summer and you was desperate... Blew up a spanking new BB7 on the second day of owning it because I didn't bother reading the instructions. Yeeaah, BB7's are different, and the rotor has to be set up to the left of central in the caliper. I set it up dead center 'cos I knew what i'm doing', the bit the cable arm moves between it and the pad pooped out during a pedalup to front wheel, locked the front wheel solid & chucked me OTB off a stack of pallets onto me head. Then for insult I had to walk home Had to send out a distress signal to fix that one. Gaz ^ used his skills with a 4lb hammer and bashed it back in 5 years later it still works perfectly and is sat on my inspired. BB7's are such good brakes.

Yeah basically posting in here wondering why the eff do I have a thing saying '0 warning points' in my profile bar, on all my posts and profile page and no bugger else does. So far as far as I know I've never done an action or said anything that would require a 'warning point' in the 1st place and the fact that the bean counter is at 0 says I haven't. Can someone get rid of it for me please as it's niggling at me. Ta very much.

Guaranteed manual progress - Find a flat car park, pedal twice round, knees bent, arse over the back hub, point your toes to the sky and pull on the bars with that bodyweight. Now cover the back brake (but only use it in the face of gravelrash) and seat shag it for all you've got! EDIT: I'd also put the bars a 1 or 2deg forward of vertical, so the backsweep merges into upsweep. I always line my nose up with the centre of front hub axle, then move the bars forward to suit comfort - sits the front wheel higher and gets the bike sitting on the better back wheel doing the trials stuff. Way more controllable for manuals this way too.

Should have put down down a hat or something like your a busker, it might have paid for lunch. I intend on curing this by simply landing bastardflips, cutting out the long winded explanation and proudly saying 'Yup', then moving on with me day. Nearly there but I'll see. Gotta stop landing on my kidneys/completely nailing meself 1st...

Oh yes. I'd do it using either kingspan or alternately 2L2. Or a combo of both with the 2L2 sandwiched between the kingspan and, for example, some hardboard or ply nailed/screwed to some batons - depends on taste and budget but it'd give you a warm to the touch surface. After this a 2-3KW leccy radiator on low for a long period of time is all you'd need - just takes the chill out of the air. It wouldn't have to cost loads and stuff like insulation gets over ordered frequently on big projects, so I'd try ebay/gumtree etc. for contractors/subbies offloading surplus. I know of a firm that writes off most of the overstock because it's not worth the transport to get it back to the yard. Link on 2L2 if you've not heard of it. I hope I'm helpful

I've made a rule of thumb that the bottom of the seat base visually lines up with the top of the rear rim's sidewall when looked at from sideways on, as this covers both angle and height. Try it, it works.

mine does it too. Lord of lame wtf?

Sand the rim flat. If it's a halfway house between a worn out grind and smooth i've always found that the brake will be useless. Also blueberrys are not up to much, yellows are the nuts.

Radical bikes?

While on the vintage retroness just found this in the for sale section. Vverry nice. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/189714-cannondale-volvo-trials-bike-mint-very-rare-retro/

come back here with pics when you get It done, I'm intrigued.

The blackspire stinger chainguide I ordered from a (usually exceptional) preowned mtb parts specialist on boxing day, arrived today. The description, order confirmation, online invoice, separate confirmation email and finally paper receipt included in the jiffy stated that this stinger was the BB mount option. What turned up?? ISCG 05. OH FFS!!!!

tried retrobike?