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Everything posted by that NBR dude
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Just got my Quiz question paper through from BMC so thought I would post it up on here, and enter it as part of the Trials-Forum Mini Owners Club team. Heres the querstions: Page 1 Page 2 Post your answers in here and we will try and compose a final answer sheet to be handed in before the 24th Good luck Andy @ BMC
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cool vid, and glad to see you're getting on with the cam :huh:
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Yup you got it spot on! It comes on at the most annoying of times. And as it didnt come with a manual (not that I would read it as Im a bloke but) I dont know if theres a way to turn it off completely.
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haha thats classic!! Didnt know you were using trials-forum danny boy?
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Im still experimenting with it Jonny, not got everything dialed yet, so yes some shots are a bit dark. As for the slow mo - I was trying to match the music, as there are 2 tempos to the tune, therefore felt it fitting to try and match the clips to that tempo. Think that makes sense, well it does in my mind anyway.
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Sounds like I have exceeded my bandwidth, I will try and host it up somewhere else before the end of the day :S Edit - new link on first post...
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New video, featuring: Nick Vaughan Andy P Nick Manning Locations: Portsmouth Poole Music: Static X - Cold Tv.isg,si link
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Basically someone I know has just run out of credit, so I want to know if there is any way I can top up their phone from online... I dont think it is possible but worth an ask
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Have a browse round Amazon. They have a wide variety of cameras for you to Choose. They have a bargain deal on atm on their Sony DVD203e DVDRAM drive camera at just under £500, which records onto DVD's instead of MiniDV tapes. For something a little more common, a good selection of MiniDV cameras around the £500: Sony DCR-HC90 Canon MVX350 Panasonic NV-GS60 A cheaper camera wont give you much less in terms of features, so some cheaper options at around the £200-300 mark are: Sony DCR-HC22 Panasonic NV-GS21 JVC's compact GR-DF420 I dont know what you want it for, what options you want from it or anything, but theres a good starting list to work through. Its good to compare all the different features of them, and work out whats best suited for what you want it for. Hope this has helped Andy
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Quality bikes!! Hes got his hung up on his wall too :P
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One of my mates had one of them.. His cracked at the seat stay yoke, about 6 times before deciding to get a new bike. those were the days!
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Doney's Warehouse Infomation!
that NBR dude replied to Ash-Kennard's topic in Member Organised Rides
I'll be there with the camera, filming. Cant ride it as its during my Jury Service and I've been told not to partake in any activity which could cause me to be unable to attend... -
I am extremely excited to see how my mod turns out. Waiting patiently for Luke to drop it on my doorstep :closedeyes:
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haha, I actually saw him ONLINE yesterday!? He spoke and everything Dave you coming to Poole on saturday if you have BB?
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You knows it Stephen!! Poole and sandbanks are good palces to ride, and Im only about a 15-20 min drive away and ride there quite regularly. check out www.nbrtrials.com for a better list of all the local-ish riders Give us a shout on MSN next time you are in the area...
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I find it best to bake (well blowtorch) them Ped, as it actually casues the oil and residue on the pads to ignite, so it actually burns the grime off. The only thing I can see about boiling them is will sterilize them
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Where did you get that picture from?? Ive been looking for it for ages...... ahh those were the days :lol:
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Steel - Steel bike frames are actually composed of a steel alloy. These combinations create steel that has high strength, and is fairly light and durable. Steel bike frames are still widely used due to their affordability. The Good / The Bad - Best steel alloys are very strong - Best stiffness overall - Long-lasting - Air-hardened alloys make ultra-high strength affordable - Can be heavy - not the materials for big, light frames - Rust-prone Aluminum - The same amount of aluminum is less stiff, lighter weight, and less strong than a comparable amount of steel. However, because aluminum is lighter, it is widely used especially in sport and mountain bike frames. It is also because of these qualities that aluminum frames generally have noticeably larger tubing diameters and thicker-walled tubing. This tube design allows aluminum frames to have adequate stiffness and still be lighter than comparable steel frames. The Good / The Bad - One-third the density of steel, allowing the use of big tubes - Easily formed into aero shapes - Even cheap frames can be light - Makes a light frame for a big rider - Doesn't rust! - One-third to one-half the strength of best steels and titanium (can break) - One-third the stiffness of any steel, which requires larger diameter tubes - Modest fatigue strength - Not easily repaired or straightened - Big, thin tubes means easy crash damage Titanium - The same amount of titanium is lighter weight and has less stiffness than comparable amounts of steel. To compensate, builders of titanium frames use somewhat larger diameter tubes to bring the stiffness more into line with what riders like. This tends to increase the weight a bit, but by making the walls of the larger tubes a bit thinner, makers can compensate to some extent and build a frame that is still lighter than a normal steel frame. In general, titanium bike frames are known to have most of the advantages of aluminum and steel bike frames. The Good / The Bad - Half as dense as steel, making the lightest most resilient frames - As strong as most steels - Wont rust - no paint needed - Good fatigue strength - Makes a light frame for a large rider - Half as stiff as steel (and known to be somewhat flexy) - Difficult to repair - Expensive Carbon Fiber - Carbon fiber is an increasingly popular frame material, but it is fundamentally different from metal tubing as a way to construct frames. They are made by gluing together layers of exotic synthetic fibers. Because of the fibrous nature of this material, it has a much more pronounced "grain" than metal does. A well-designed carbon fiber frame can have the fabric aligned in such a way as to provide maximum strength in the directions of maximum stress. Unfortunately, in bicycle applications, carbon fiber is not a fully mature technology. Carbon fiber or composite bike frames are very light making them popular with mountain bikes. The Good / The Bad - Readily molded into exotic shapes - Excellent fatigue strength; no rust - Strength and stiffness are controllable - Low density and high strength make very light strong frames possible - Expensive raw material - A bomb if poorly designed or made (too stiff or too flexible) - Can be "notch sensitive" (prone to breakage)
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Hush you!! :) The old plastictastic wing wirrors were monuted onto the door using..... glue. So we had to cut them off, meaning there was no way of mounting the new bullet mirrors on the door. Anyway I think they look fine on a longer wheelbase mini, on a saloon they suck though!
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I have mine bolted and plated into the rear wheel arches. Being an estate I dont have rear seatbelt mounts :) Depending on what buckets you get, fixed ones will make getting in the back very difficult due to the width of them. I have Cobra Clubmans and there is no way you could squeeze through (again the joy of an estate means easy access through the boot hehe). I think you need to decide what you want form the car. Whether you want a stripped out racer with buckets, harnesses and a roll cage, or something to transport people in easily. If its the latter, I would suggest looking for some cheaper recliners on ebay or something and sticking to normal belts.
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One of those (just the frame) with cheapish components... And Luke, just you shhhh about what happened to it (Y)
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I think some more thought needs to go into the products. The Booster for example - how long before someone cuts their leg open on the sticky out corners? Seeing as the crank rotation is going to bring your leg/ankle very close that specific area, I can see that hurting.. The Bash - There seems to be a lot of excess material by making it haxagonal. For it to cover the whole chainring, the flat edge needs to come beyond the edge of the chainring, hence leaving a big chuck of material at each corner of the hexagon. This is going to A) add extra weight, B ) decrease ground clearance slightly and risk getting that corner wedged on something Not having a go or anything, and well done for trying it, but take a bit more time to develop ideas :'( Edit - spelling still isn't right. Its spelt OUR not ARE
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Portsmouth-this Saturday/sunday....
that NBR dude replied to Prawny Baby's topic in Member Organised Rides
Hush Nick!! It was late and I had a beverage or two... My car will do 85, just no more than that. Snow riding sounds fun, not done it before. Cya Sunday d00de -
Portsmouth-this Saturday/sunday....
that NBR dude replied to Prawny Baby's topic in Member Organised Rides
I will see you Sunday Nick, as long as it doesnt snow. Would make the drive there interesting though, might be able to replicate the results of Quarry at 85mph.... Anyone who says a front wheel drive car wont OVERsteer has never seen a mini round a track (Y) -
Looking good Lukio Im wetting myself with excitement about the frames :) Hurry up and get mine in stock :P