Jason222

repost.

I think that color scheme could possibly the worst looking scheme of any trials bike to date. Frame design looks amazing though.

Probably. Would be quite the light gearing though.

Usually most mod riders use 18:12. You change how hard the gearing feels based on the length of your crank. 18:12 with 160 mm length cranks feels quite hard, similar to 18:15 with 170s on a stock. The longer the crank, the lighter the gearing will feel. I'd recommend 18:12 with 165 or 170 mm length cranks.

Stupid arguing nobs...I still didn't get my question answered after 4 pages of rants and jealousy. HOW HIGH IS THAT SIDE HOP?

I haven't tried the Big earl tire, but it seems nice. However, I have had a few Bontrager Earl(model beneath big earl) 2.4 tires. They were quite soft, had good bounce, excellent grip, but I found they pinched on everything. Good price though. I really liked the tread design, if it had better sidewalls this would be an excellent tire. http://www.bontrager.com/model/02869/en

Getting another monty freewheel wouldn't be a bad idea. They're excellent, probably better than an eno in my expereience. James B just went through a try-all freewheel. He said they all die relatively quickly if you intend to actually ride them. His only lasted a few months...

I don't think there's such thing as 'good' and 'bad' king hubs. I think there's people who abuse them don't take care of their hub. The king I have was used for 2.5 years on a freeride bike before I got it, and I've been riding it for 2 solid years. I broke an axle back in august, but that's an awfully long time for any axle to last. I've had very few skips with it in the last 2 years, probably 8 or so. The few skips that I have had have been when the axle/hub was loose. I also had a bmx one with my DOB bike, only rode it for a little under a month, but it too was a great hub. It was brand new, I just rode it with the regular lube, it leaks out pretty quickly (supposed to during break in period), so I wouldn't worry about it. Highly recommended

I think you should just regrind with a harsher angle. Have the grinding disc at a 70-90 degree angle to the rim, press hard and go fast. Makes a really deep grind, and it lasts ages, even on softer rims like try-alls. I haven't ground mine in 2.5 months and it's still not dull.

Rulong is the better bet. Dob's are a flex machine.

What's the actual height?

Holy crap!!! Some monstrous gaps in there! Sick riding!

What rim are you running? Try-all? Do you have clearance issues with that tire? Seems like everyone with a Z1 has fat tires, but mine wont run them! Maybe my dropouts arn't designed properly...

This makes me wonder if the Z1 I have was made properly. It wont fit a 2.4 " tire, 2.35 would just barely make it I'm also noticing that not all Z1 frames were made the same. The dropouts are different on some. I noticed yours, and a few others have a drilled out dropout such as this: But the one I have doesn't have those drilled dropouts.

I had a Meta rim, which is identical to that, and I think the try-all is the same rim as well. Both hold a grind if you grind at a harsh angle, if you grind at a shallow angle, it wont hold worth crap on any rim. I was grinding every week, and then put a proper harsh grind on, and haven't ground in 2.5 months. Grind still has lots of life left too.

What rear cog is that? It looks HUGE!

What rear tire is on the Z1? Is it a try-all? Do you have clearance issues at all?

anyone else here run a rubber queen with a Z1 frame? It's kind of an expensive tire, and I don't want to buy it and have it not fit...

I'm running a Try-all rim and Scwalbe big betty 2.4. I had to cut all the outer nobs off so the tire wouldn't rub on both sides of the frame :$ how do you like the Continental tire? Have you had any pinch flats with it?

What tires do you guys run on the back? My zhi frame is pretty limited in clearence...

Does that cover the brakes that leak slowly, like noticeably less fluid in a month or so of riding? Netto on OTN tried on of the TR brakes and said he encountered a lot of leaking at the lever seal.

Shitty head angle and the reach is too short. Everything else is good.

I have a really simple and easy way of making a new tensioner, or making an old broken one work well. What you need: A DMR or Surly or similar tensioner that has a main body that attaches to the hanger, and a wheel to tension the chain. (you can make one out of sheet metal and a derailleur as well) A spring from a U brake A drill with a few different sizes of drill bits to play around with. Pliers and/or a Vice You take the spring from the U brake, bend it so that the ends both stick out in the same direction. You insert one end into one of the drill holes in your frame (most frames have these, I'm yet to see a frame that doesn't, but if yours doesn't, this technique wont work for you, unless you drill a hole yourself.) It's best to have the end in a slight U shape so it doesn't come out of place(you can also use a tie strap if it gives you troubles). Do the same to the other end, and drill a hole in the center of your tensioner. Insert it in the same way. You may have to bend the spring out a little to give added spring tension. Mount your tensioner to the derailleur hanger(don't tighten it all the way, allow it to move up and down freely) , put the wheel jockey on the chain, and you're done! Pictures:

Yep, 1090 with a Meta fork (410 axle to crown, with 35 mm offset). My GU Le was 1084 and I really notice the difference in wheelbase.