Alex Dark

I'm down if a decent amount of people are heading out?

110% change that stem from the stock tryall to the monty Other than that its looking good bey

share the same view... Definitely up for a trip there if some people are up for it locally, maybe hold an impromptu competition?

Frame looks siiiik well impressed with that, have to have a bounce on it when you get it k

yeee come plymouth and say ello we're all freindly folk...

I'm currently building a frame for my a level project completely from scratch....done loads of research and cad work, but cant really be bothered to type it all ou there email me / msn me at alexdark2@hotmail.co.uk if you want a chat.

Pictures or i cant really help... id say probably space the hub away from the frame

Frankly Untrue...

Tensile 60 e.p freewheel... work ace

I think less pressure - more bounce to a point anyway... High is 20 i reckon, i run about 17 rear, 20 front. In future, use the Search function...that's what it's there for

Cassette spacers, crank spacers ( for the FFW thread ) and bottom bracket spacers are all the same size

poor thing....doesn't even look that old / scratched up!

Yeh that looks fine, bear in mind that that cog is made from aluminium and so will wear away far faster than a Cromo steel version. Thread size etc it looks fine No lockring needed, maybe a spacer for the cranks if you run no bashring though

If it's knackered, then replace it. Go to an o-ring supplier, somewhere like Mill Autos or similar

Well it'd be like having two innertubes, so around 200g heavier of course it affects acceleration, how much depends on the weight though. Doubt it, probably affects how the bike handles in the air to some minute degree though. You're best off getting a thicker DH tube, or a thicker dual ply tyre if you;re forever getting " punctures"

Bike here Someone's a right mug to pay that much for it :/ if it wasn't signed, it wouldn't be worth much more than £500 spec wise.

Yup, they seem to be too stiff. Why that be, i can only guess I'd recommend getting an Rb 2 bolt if you can find one, they weigh barely anything and seem to be damn effective. Barring that, maybe a try-all?

Yup, you can replace the o-rings, although i very much doubt that's your problem. I don;t reckon the o-ring resisting compression would be enough to overcome the power of a magura?

Erm....surely that wont do anything if the run is all the way around due to the mount being lower? That may take a high spot off, if the disc is somehow misaligned on the hub...or am i missing something?

I'd just use some normal skate shoes; nothing as bulky as DC's imo, just some nice quality good sole pattern ones. Maybe Etnies, Vans, Es etc?

That's an IS mount, IS brake...but it looks as if its either designed for a 155mm rotor ( which they don't make ) or the mount is simply welded a little too low. Not sure really what to suggest; but it shouldn't do too much harm if it's left, after all the aluminium calliper will just have a deep scratch in it, so if its free-ish to move id just go bugger it and run as is.

It will freeze when winter rolls around if your bikes outdoors....however ive had them freeze on me, even while riding and it's done them no damage whatsoever IF you're that bothered, whack some anti-freeze in there

Buy and sell shizle on here / ebay...? Get a job... Give blood/ other bodily fluids

Lightest set-up would be rear vee.....although with a magura mount frame it'll easily be the magura against the disc. If you want exact weights stop being so lazy and research it on tarty Hope mono trial 160 against Magura Hs33 + clamps Edit: And as for pro's and con's, use the search..... Very briefly: Disc Pros: * Better modulation, * Better wet weather performance ( in general ) , * Fairly tucked away compared to magura crossover. * Better hold than most magura set-ups Cons: * Heavier * Shifts weight distribution towards rear of the bike * Far easier to get contaminated * Once contaminated far harder and more expensive to put right ( £13 for pads, IPA to clean rotor ) * Less bite than a magura set-up * Needs fairly precise setting up, not a very easy job with snail-cams on some frames * Generally more hassle to maintain * Harder to bleed So, in conclusion; I reckon disc on the rear for a natural ( read competition ) mod bike. In all other cases, unless you very frequently require modulation ( think braunschweig ) then a magura is the easiest, cheapest, lightest and best performing option.

"ally-al"...hope that one doesnt't catch on I'll be there fo shure, well.....if the weather decides to like us Adam Fisher will be there as well.