Alex Dark

I recommend an FSA Platinum sl snap? whattt?

It wasn't a criticism....just saying it seems relatively heavy compared to the weights of some other bikes banded about on here My coust seems to weigh in at 10.6kgs although I can't really see what could be causing that.

first put the bottom square shaped booster onto the canti studs The lower parts of the mounts then fit over the studs, and into the holes on the booster ( wide ends at the bottom ) On the (right?) side, slide the evo2 quickrelease onto the top part of the mount, so the QR lever is facing upwards and outwards. Now, thread the hourglass shape thingy into the (right?) canti stud. It goes in with around 3mm of thread showing i think? Place the slaves onto the mount lowers. Engage the mount uppers into the small tabs/recesses at the bottom of the mount so they sandwich the pistons. Fold the quick release so it is closed, and gently tighten the hourglass until it is snug. Now realease the hourglass and tighten 1 turn and retighten the QR lever. Next, screw the M6 bolt into the (left?) hand side cant stud. Tighten until it is reasonably snug against the mount. Now, put the longer M5 bolts into the top of the mount ( bearing in mind there is a washer on the (right?) side to keep the booster attached when the qr side is removed.) The left side bolt fits through the recess in the booster allowing the booster to be removed. Now, simply push the pistons to where desired, line up the pads parallel with the rim and tighten the upper bolts on the mounts. Then tighten the lower (left?) bolt and the hourglass until the QR exerts a reasonable amount of force. Hope that helped dude

Bike looks naiceee...those frames ride really well too Good Buy

160 will be fine...if you're any of the following you may warrant a 180: a) fat horrendous at setting up brakes

Looks lush, one of the nicest cleanest looking mod frames around at the moment for sure Good Work.

That is a 130 x 15 Echo Hifi stem. With some nice high rise bars ( monty 22ti, Viz 720, TT sport etc. ) and a 10mm stacker that stem should be perfect

In my opinion....homemade 74kingz, Tensile Ace ( as it's the best of 5 that I've owned ), and an Onza pro series or trialtech sl front rim....

Looks good, front page graphics look ace

Like most people have said....seems very heavy Lush looking build though, like it very much

If there's more rotor clearance....then surely you could set the pads up closer and use a longer blade to deliver more power?

1085, 385, +10, 71.5

It just seems echo seem to die quicker with water..... Tarty even state that you shouldn't bleed with water

Im assuming he was just riding along to be hassled for that.....if he'd actually been riding trials im sure he would have got abused for that

Haha so pointless....unless they're pilot holes for >10mm holes

If its in the master, then no not hard at all as longas you have the tiniest bit of mechanical know-how. You will have to re-bleed though. BLEED with OIL!

AKA truvativ BB tool

Light sharp grind...Coustellier CNC'd pads work great

Yeh i run an alloy cassette body and it's all good.....the HD classic hub seems pretty damn good

No reason not to....should be fine

Nope.....because it now goes the opposite direction, the normally self tightening lockring loosens itself.

I use an old aluminium seat post...insert it down the headtube, and gently tap the headset cup out. Remember to tap all the way around the circumference of the headset in order to avoid getting the headset angled and thus running the risk of flaring the tube The larger the diameter of post/tube, the more material will be in contact with the headset cup.

Yeh it'll work...but beware of the lockring coming loose, thus it spilling it's innards on the floor

Pics or it didn't happen....oh, wait....

He be right