Alex Dark

Ermm, Id say a 2.35 Dual ply maxxis minion in the rear, possibly a try-all stiky on the front? Not sure if this would be great on street though....Moto digger might be alright though

trialtech sl rims....very different to echo sl forks. I doubt anyone's managed to snap a TT front rim yet, although I'm sure someone will prove me wrong

I'd still prefer the Kooka over those...they don't offer the opportunity to go FFW in the future.

I use one thin snail cam on the driveside only...works ace

Kooka cranks are basically kock-offs of Onza muscleman / ddg orbita cranks. fairly solid, although as you;re buying new i wouldnt recommend then. Instead, look at some trialtech, echo cnc etc ISIS cranks and change to an isis bottom bracket. If youre really tight for cash and want to stay square taper, then they would be okay if you dont cane your drivetrain too hard.

Bike looks like it suits you...and some ace riding going down

Tarty forged stem...and some second hand high - rise bars will sort your bike out. Make it feel twice the ride

Whole new can of worms... Check your spelling, then have a look through the "pad review" thread

nah that simtras only little An echo 115 stem might be better for you? or possibly the tarty 125x20*

Improvement on that Zoo thing Looks keen.....if i cant get my stock or xtp sorted i may have to ride my little t-pro too

Vees aren't massively popular....I'm going to run raer magura for the foreseeable future

I recommend an FSA Platinum sl snap? whattt?

It wasn't a criticism....just saying it seems relatively heavy compared to the weights of some other bikes banded about on here My coust seems to weigh in at 10.6kgs although I can't really see what could be causing that.

first put the bottom square shaped booster onto the canti studs The lower parts of the mounts then fit over the studs, and into the holes on the booster ( wide ends at the bottom ) On the (right?) side, slide the evo2 quickrelease onto the top part of the mount, so the QR lever is facing upwards and outwards. Now, thread the hourglass shape thingy into the (right?) canti stud. It goes in with around 3mm of thread showing i think? Place the slaves onto the mount lowers. Engage the mount uppers into the small tabs/recesses at the bottom of the mount so they sandwich the pistons. Fold the quick release so it is closed, and gently tighten the hourglass until it is snug. Now realease the hourglass and tighten 1 turn and retighten the QR lever. Next, screw the M6 bolt into the (left?) hand side cant stud. Tighten until it is reasonably snug against the mount. Now, put the longer M5 bolts into the top of the mount ( bearing in mind there is a washer on the (right?) side to keep the booster attached when the qr side is removed.) The left side bolt fits through the recess in the booster allowing the booster to be removed. Now, simply push the pistons to where desired, line up the pads parallel with the rim and tighten the upper bolts on the mounts. Then tighten the lower (left?) bolt and the hourglass until the QR exerts a reasonable amount of force. Hope that helped dude

Bike looks naiceee...those frames ride really well too Good Buy

160 will be fine...if you're any of the following you may warrant a 180: a) fat horrendous at setting up brakes

Looks lush, one of the nicest cleanest looking mod frames around at the moment for sure Good Work.

That is a 130 x 15 Echo Hifi stem. With some nice high rise bars ( monty 22ti, Viz 720, TT sport etc. ) and a 10mm stacker that stem should be perfect

In my opinion....homemade 74kingz, Tensile Ace ( as it's the best of 5 that I've owned ), and an Onza pro series or trialtech sl front rim....

Looks good, front page graphics look ace

Like most people have said....seems very heavy Lush looking build though, like it very much

If there's more rotor clearance....then surely you could set the pads up closer and use a longer blade to deliver more power?

1085, 385, +10, 71.5

It just seems echo seem to die quicker with water..... Tarty even state that you shouldn't bleed with water