Alex Dark

Kona P2 forks...now discontinued I think. A quick google search may prove otherwise If they are as i suspect then Ebay or the wanted section here would be your best bet. Edit: Click here

Don't mind toptube graphics...downtube looks horrible though.

make a frame jig to hold each component of the frame. The solidworks model is built around a virtual jig so will give me all the tubing lengths too Okay, Topic bump. I now need to start ordering materials....has anyone got any other improvements for the frame? I'll put up some renderings tomorrow of the finished seat tube and reinforced brake mount area. In the mean time, I DESPERATELY need wall thicknesses for my frame. If anyone could shed any light on this, it would be a great help. Like the tubing thickness of a koxx, say, and an Adamant. I can then cad model this and get the weight to the target. Mainly I need to know the approximate ratios between wall thickness on different parts of the bike. Also, when a bike is reduced on weight...are all the tubing all over made thinner? or just specific areas? Cheers Alex.

Bike looks naiiice, sure it rides ace

Erm....I quite like the Viz hubs, no idea on price though. I'm sure the TT sealed hub is fairly decent too.

the hole in them is drilled to 10mm, the King bolts are 12mm. Thus they will not fit

Basically.....I've got a k710 kool at the moment, and was looking for a replacement as I've had this one for a bout a year now. According to loads of fixie websites the only reason chains break is where they are joined? Sooo, has anyone got any decent recommendations? I was thinking another kool chain or a KMC z610 hx. Does anyone know if the Z610 RB is any different to the HX apart from the rust proof coating? Cheers , Alex

Fair enough, just my two cents. Chances are you could sell that and buy a BB7 with some profit though.

100% go sealed.

I'd stock with the Louise...they seem to be damn good brakes, and almost certainly worth more than the BB7

Ah....well if you post them dow I could drill them for you and send back? I use the massive pillar drills at college. If you're interested give me a shout

Do it....90% of the people on the forum that use rim-brakes grind their rims. Most rims are good for AT LEAST 10 grinds or more...so it really is fine If you tak your time and practice on an old rim you'll do fine

Yesh, thought so...My hd axle is directly tapped learn something new everyday I suppose

Amazing, the coust CNC'd pads are the best I've tried. You won;t be dissapointed with a fresh grind Truth there is a video on Tarty on how to do this properly, but I can't for the life of me find it :|

Super abs

Decent weather and I'm game... Alex Dark

I use a t-master stem on me little t-pro with monty 22ti bars

fair enough, I thought they were tapped directly into it

If it's threaded then surely the axles buggered?

Vice ... pillar drill.....done. You could use a round file if you don't trust yourself with the above

Because it's working In all seriousness.....some hubs are quieter than others. My opinion is that if it works just leave it well alone, if it skips then service it Edit: the spring CAN be stretched to increase the noise, or a thinner lube can be used. Have you owned this hub from new? If so it may well have ringdrive grease in it, instead of tri-flow / 10w car oil.

Because raked forks offer a long wheelbase with a shorter reach?Ssimilar to a slack headangle.

Brilliant brakes....coupled with the right lever ( Sd7, fr5, xtr, ultimate etc..) and the right housing ( odyssey linear slic etc ) and good pads ( avid standard ) they can outperform or equal most set-ups. I run an old style BB7 silver road caliper with mountain internals, on a 185mm roundagon rotor, SD7 lever and Odyssey linear slic cable. It outperforms all the Hope mono trials that I've used, and a fair few magura set-ups. I reckon I'd change to a vee if I had the mounts, due to the performance and the weight loss though . Its worth bearing in mind that all types of trials brakes, be it HS, vee or disc can work admirably when set-up well. The Avid bb5's are another good choice, as are the Hayes mx2's as cable brakes go.

I agree with the jist of what you;re saying...however having used all the standard magura pads, Koxx bloxx pads, plaz pads, heatsink pads etc I've come to the conclusion that they are superior, probably beacuse they are designed with trials in mind. I'm sure most of the forum will agree with me on this point. It's not a case of me telling him what to get, we're all merely providing opinions and experiences....and i gave my input It also comes down to rim surface etc, the blacks and especially koolstops do perform fairly well with tar on a clean dry smooth rim, although it's hard to find a pad that won't perform similarly under such conditions. Rowan Johns did however run the blacks on the rear, but as he's gone brakeless now I'm sure you can understand why he didn't need the performance.

oh god knows....i bought that whole RB lever for £20 a while back] Cheers dude