Alex Dark

And it wouldn't be half as susceptible to fatigue as aluminium is. Probably not, aluminium has been used for a hell of along time as a structural member in Aerospace and the automotive before it ever got used on a bicycle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't seen plastic very commonly used as an alternative material. Who knows though... No reason it will be inordinately expensive.....the Truv PC bash's are pretty cheap, certainly not a huge amount more than their aluminium counterparts. Yesh, forgot about the pedals.....top example. Like you say, it would be fine on something experiencing a relatively small moment. But that torque and thus shear force would be proportionally increased the longer the stem is.

It appears they have used PC ( polycarbonate.... ) known for its strength and often referred to as bulletproof. This has been used by evil bikes ( e.13 chainguard anyone ?) and Truv to great success. Whether it's up to use under load I'm not sure.....I'd also be worried about the threads pulling out. Polycarbonate Stats 6061 aluminium stats - As used on the tartybikes forged stem and many others. This is in the T6 variant, although probably the most suitable for this application. You can see that PC is lighter than 6061....but the tensile yield strength ( I think the most relevant figure? ) is far lower at 40.7-73.5 MPa compared to the 255 of 6061. Theoretically if used well this material could be as strong as aluminium, but I reckons it would be more suited to something like a direct-mount DH style stem, where there would be far less leverage acting on it?

New ones are bastards to get apart....the old ones were circlipped in place. My vote goes for XTR levers, but they are damned expensive

If ye used a vice you'd be fine...I wouldn't drill anything on a pillar drill without one ( within reason )

Rat tail file...or dremel. If youve got access to a pillar drill then you could kind of mill it?

External....the Echo SL will fit

The sensible person in me says dont leave wearing parts that are constantly in contact with no lube....but dan seems to know what he's chatting about

VERY high carcass though, you'll have more issues with this than a standard try-all I believe. I'd say get a second hand Try-all stiky front tyre

They seem to be like that anyway, I've never had any problems with ones that are grooved. Should be fine

You legend, I reckon that idea would be easily integratable into my design Thanks man, I was considering putting Vee studs on the top of the magura mounts, but decided this would be far too weak. Started some cad renderings for a system now, I'll post up when I'm done. Cheers again I certainly have, discarded the idea, but now Steve has come up with the above I think It's back on the cards again

It seems pretty much everyone runs the standard hope pads....should be a pretty good indication

me too...thought they weren't out yet?

Ace video, improved massively.....bettre than me now Good song

Stiff as buggery booster, plastic backings seem to reduce noise also.

Homemade 74kingz

One assumes they got it out somehow? God knows, have a looks or ask for a description of whats missing.

haha sureeee Muel speaks truth, mine weighs in at 1.7 with bash I thinks? Anyways....internal headsets are all pretty similar...i mean youve only got a certain amount of space, so you cant really make the bearings any smaller/bigger. Spec list would be better and we could say what would be worth changing. A Trialtech lite (KMC Z601h) would save you some weight against most other chains as well

Is the BB intact? I.E does it have the little tabs to take it out with still on both cups? IF not then they've snapped them off taking em out

If someone said lube pedals, I'd personally think grease the bearings.... Anyway, pedals off...wire brush the threads, grease and re-install. Are the pedals loose? If so tighten the internal bearings with a 6mm allen key and 12?mm socket. They are cartridge bearings though...so if the bearings are shot it would be a replace job most likely. Pedals aren't the most liekly thing to creak so if your bike is still noisy after you've done the above, swap them out for some good pedals....probably your BB I reckon or possibly loose cranks ( in that case grease the bb shell, clean the threads.....remove cranks, clean splines/tapers and lube if ISIS drive ) . Cheeeeers

Looks pretty coo....and they ride amazingly, good work

Why would it The difference is just in the hubshells...all the internals are identical if they're the same model

Hell yeah Erm, for the downtube, top tube and stays it works out at £23 plus delivery...the rest is going to be sourced from a different supplier, so yet to be confirmed Haha, maybe.....i'm taking the next year off so who knows

Ah, that is a VERY good point...bit late though Cheers though Cptn. Too true, but this is mostly for the paperwork side of things. Looks good if i can show i've researched this as well. I've already decided the Geo in my head I reckon: 1090, 40, 380, 71.5 / 72

Possible snapped axle? probably collapsed bearings though. Orrr....you may have mullered theraised internal edge of the axle that the bearing rests on? Take it apart and have a looks...

tried two.....really didn't work for me. The only thing that can really be used is ISA