Alex Dark

Sounds ace.....as long as the venues sound along with the weather its all gravy

The tools, if ye need them, are at Halfords.

Ye, helps prevent creaking also

Like muel says...the pawls are probably stuck down with too much grease. Flush it through with WD or similar solvent then lube with a thin oil. If all else fails, tarty will, I'm sure, help you out

Heatsink Snowys and TNN LGM's are supposedly great on smooth. My coustellier CNC were pretty good on an atomlab smooth rim

good plan. remember, bar angle, lever angle and the amount of stem stackers can also make a pretty big difference to the ride and feel of the bike.

Nah, the reservoir is there to have a tiny bit of air inside...this air will just enter the system if ran upside down. So...its new lever ( or just body) or run your brake's Euro I'm afraid

That adaptor effectively gives you a 185 rear brake...or a 205 front. You'll need to downsize your adaptor to a 185 front....or buy a 203mm rotor and take a washer out.

Nah you don;t want any form of lubrication when two components are relying on an interference fit. There may be some kind of paste you could use though to help stop against the bi metal fusion ( not sure if thats only with ally and steel though? ).

I think theyre discontinued dude... That one above looks horrible tiny...lower front end than I run on my +40 Coust and kind of freakish with the angle of the stays to the ground

Nah the old ones are....new are 1090, 380, 72 +30....so really lush H.A looks mega slack on the one above though

Looks ace, only thing I'm not into are the bars. Apart from that....great spec bet it rides lushly too

nah...10w car oil tis what king recommends, and works ace in my hub

KMC Z610HX KMC K710 kool

Stop being so damned morbid

Really liked that dude, music was cool...and the riding was sick

The nuc mod stem I would have thought will be too high for your frame....I'd use a stock NUC stem with some nice high rise bars

And it wouldn't be half as susceptible to fatigue as aluminium is. Probably not, aluminium has been used for a hell of along time as a structural member in Aerospace and the automotive before it ever got used on a bicycle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't seen plastic very commonly used as an alternative material. Who knows though... No reason it will be inordinately expensive.....the Truv PC bash's are pretty cheap, certainly not a huge amount more than their aluminium counterparts. Yesh, forgot about the pedals.....top example. Like you say, it would be fine on something experiencing a relatively small moment. But that torque and thus shear force would be proportionally increased the longer the stem is.

It appears they have used PC ( polycarbonate.... ) known for its strength and often referred to as bulletproof. This has been used by evil bikes ( e.13 chainguard anyone ?) and Truv to great success. Whether it's up to use under load I'm not sure.....I'd also be worried about the threads pulling out. Polycarbonate Stats 6061 aluminium stats - As used on the tartybikes forged stem and many others. This is in the T6 variant, although probably the most suitable for this application. You can see that PC is lighter than 6061....but the tensile yield strength ( I think the most relevant figure? ) is far lower at 40.7-73.5 MPa compared to the 255 of 6061. Theoretically if used well this material could be as strong as aluminium, but I reckons it would be more suited to something like a direct-mount DH style stem, where there would be far less leverage acting on it?

New ones are bastards to get apart....the old ones were circlipped in place. My vote goes for XTR levers, but they are damned expensive

If ye used a vice you'd be fine...I wouldn't drill anything on a pillar drill without one ( within reason )

Rat tail file...or dremel. If youve got access to a pillar drill then you could kind of mill it?

External....the Echo SL will fit

The sensible person in me says dont leave wearing parts that are constantly in contact with no lube....but dan seems to know what he's chatting about