Alex Dark

Strong Keeps Tension well All good Beats most roller tensioners out there....but I'd still prefer a homemade 74kingz or spoke tensioner meself

Had Hope mini, Old BB7, new BB7, Mono trial and gusset disc...along with some maggie setups. Best for power was the magura ( cousts light sharp grind ) so much bite was lovely up to front.... next was the avid, (\although i have snapped 3 calipers all old style ) pretty close to the magura just with masses of spoke flex as to be expected on a stock. The mono trials was next best but not as much hold or bite as the BB7 for me . Brand new I'd go avid, second hand hope all the way..so much better value for your money.

big respect to Conti

I ran a 47mm try-all on my 03 pitbull ( standard 100mm spacing ) so will fit just fine dude.

SICK im there if the weathers okie

Must ahve been cracked before you did that Unlucky though dude....Not much you can do really maybe wodge some araldite in there

Looks lavly dude Same weight as my Koxx Square holed echo rear rim..badass

I'd probably just use Nitromorse and some wire wool to clean them up May do mine soon actually... I'd probably just use Nitromorse and some wire wool to clean them up May do mine soon actually...

On the rear Must be a typo

Brilliant....really loved the edit

Stick as many as you want on, but make sure you have enough fork steerer tube inside the stem ( top of it should be around 1cm below the top of the stem to be safe ). If you're using the standard Onza bars and stem, one 10mm stacker should do nicely Good luck dude...

spikey rings? Could you be a bit more specific Sounds like they shouldn't be there unless they're some of these If so they are meant to go above the frame in order to space the stem slightly higher. This is user preference and can also depend on the length of the forks Anymore help needed, just yell.

Went with Andrei Burton Events to a pretty badass 2 day show in Torquay Devon....made a shortish video of the whole thing of some of the highlights and that. Hope you guys like, fair few more videos coming from me VERY shortly so watch this space Alex vimeo link

Ride really nice, same geo as the old try-all rage bars so pretty spot on:)

Mate had a ti front rim and thats lasted for a good 2 years now...well worth the moneys I reckons Trialtechs damn expensive, why not look at the standard drilled one? That's lightweight and cheapish

* Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this.... * Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this....

Never had one, but the older ones were known to have spokes pulling through and they don't hold grinds too well due to the uber soft material. Ideal I think for a front disc wheel. New ones are 170% thicker around the spoke so should at least be a lot better to stop the spokes pulling through

I have no idea...never even heard of it, but I'll ask Joe on saturday to see if he has any idea

Dont drill it then... Fine width, I run an Echo 07 front (39mm wide ) on the rear with no issues... Trialtech/ try-all are pretty badass...strong and light ( normal circular drileld dual-wall ) Doubt you'd have need for it...but if you bash then Echo Urban If you want lightweight then go Try-all h0le or Onza pro Diamond

Unless youre incredibly lucky and have perfect chain length and thus tension...you'll need some kind of tensioning device. This can take the form of chain tugs/ cams - where the wheel is moved backwards along the horizontal dropout by either being pulled or pushed Sprung tensioner - Uses a spring to ensure constant tension on the chain.... 74kingz, spoke tensioners or Rohloff are good examples of these. Fixed tensioner - Less commonly used now, but still being made. Simply a captive tensioner that is held in place. DMR STS ( simple tensioner ) is the main one used in trials. If you're bending hangers, then consider using a 74kingz style or spoke tensioner. Both cost little or nothing to make and work brilliantly if executed well.

I don't get it...you show us one clip then ask for help....what kind of help?

Brakes - Binding in what way? Are they rubbing etc? How do you know it is the lever set-up at fault? Front wheel bearings - If unsealed hub then make sure the cones are done up against each other as detailed here Very good bikes, especially at their price range. How long have you had the bike for dude? Sounds like you have a couple of small routine maintenance problems that all new bikes suffer. Things come loose, one of those things I'm afraid If you need any help fixing the above, just describe exactly what's happening and we'll do our best.. Alex

Basically you just want the chain to run in as straight a line as possible from cog to cog... Put the cog on the freehub body of the hub with no spacers. Now, put the chain on both cogs and spin the cranks backwards. The cog should seat itself in pretty much perfect alignment with the front cog ( helps reduce chain wear and reduce chance of skipping ). Now, look through your spacers and see what youve got, and try some different combinations to get the position of the cog as near as possible to the one it has seated itself in. That should all be sorted now....slide the spacers on, then the cog, and the rest of the spacers. The lockring goes next which has to be tightened with this tool. As for tensioners, I recommend using a spoke tensioner if your chain length is to within 1/4" of what is needed for perfect tension. Other wise I'd say a good 2-pulley tensioner or a homemade 74kingz style. If you have any other issues, especially regarding tensioners, give me a shout Alex

20mm bolt through surely?