Alex Dark

dremel two flats on the side of the bb cup so you can clamp it into a vice or use mole grips etc dremel a slot so you can use a screwdriver to tap it around weld some scrap steel to the bb to turn it out ( if its steel )

should be able to push the chain so it touches the stay. If you can't then it's definitely too tight:) A tight chain will accelerate sprocket and chain wear, and a loose one may cause skipping.

Exactly what skoze said Chain is upside down

Echo External or internal? If its an IRB bottom bracket youre probably a bit buggered.....some BB's you can change their bearings if they're normal cartridge units such as used on the try-all / rest BB's

Tensiles on ebay are so cheap for what you get.... echo cnc's are pretty much bombproof and burns are probably the best non FFW cranks out there for trials

Ulimate hardware are pretty cheap generic mtb stuff...is this off ebay?

Strong Keeps Tension well All good Beats most roller tensioners out there....but I'd still prefer a homemade 74kingz or spoke tensioner meself

Had Hope mini, Old BB7, new BB7, Mono trial and gusset disc...along with some maggie setups. Best for power was the magura ( cousts light sharp grind ) so much bite was lovely up to front.... next was the avid, (\although i have snapped 3 calipers all old style ) pretty close to the magura just with masses of spoke flex as to be expected on a stock. The mono trials was next best but not as much hold or bite as the BB7 for me . Brand new I'd go avid, second hand hope all the way..so much better value for your money.

big respect to Conti

I ran a 47mm try-all on my 03 pitbull ( standard 100mm spacing ) so will fit just fine dude.

SICK im there if the weathers okie

Must ahve been cracked before you did that Unlucky though dude....Not much you can do really maybe wodge some araldite in there

Looks lavly dude Same weight as my Koxx Square holed echo rear rim..badass

I'd probably just use Nitromorse and some wire wool to clean them up May do mine soon actually... I'd probably just use Nitromorse and some wire wool to clean them up May do mine soon actually...

On the rear Must be a typo

Brilliant....really loved the edit

Stick as many as you want on, but make sure you have enough fork steerer tube inside the stem ( top of it should be around 1cm below the top of the stem to be safe ). If you're using the standard Onza bars and stem, one 10mm stacker should do nicely Good luck dude...

spikey rings? Could you be a bit more specific Sounds like they shouldn't be there unless they're some of these If so they are meant to go above the frame in order to space the stem slightly higher. This is user preference and can also depend on the length of the forks Anymore help needed, just yell.

Went with Andrei Burton Events to a pretty badass 2 day show in Torquay Devon....made a shortish video of the whole thing of some of the highlights and that. Hope you guys like, fair few more videos coming from me VERY shortly so watch this space Alex vimeo link

Ride really nice, same geo as the old try-all rage bars so pretty spot on:)

Mate had a ti front rim and thats lasted for a good 2 years now...well worth the moneys I reckons Trialtechs damn expensive, why not look at the standard drilled one? That's lightweight and cheapish

* Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this.... * Tensioner Hacksaw blades x2 / big vibra saw blade Bit of piping / plastic for runner some steel for the angle bracket 2 m5 bolts and washers ( I use rotor bolts ) Bend the Steel into an L shape so it clears the rear cog. Put an S bend into the steel so the end is bought into line with the cog Drill ends of both blades and the ends of the steel to accept the axle (10mm usually ) and the M5 bolt ( 5mm ). Drill the runner you have made and affix to hacksaws. Should look approximately like this....

Never had one, but the older ones were known to have spokes pulling through and they don't hold grinds too well due to the uber soft material. Ideal I think for a front disc wheel. New ones are 170% thicker around the spoke so should at least be a lot better to stop the spokes pulling through

I have no idea...never even heard of it, but I'll ask Joe on saturday to see if he has any idea