Alex Dark

Hi there....been a while since Ive made a video so I thought id get this edited together... nothing big just a really fun ride with some good mates. All comments welcome Alex

Get the brake off the bike, extend the pistons by depressing the lever. Remove pads and spray wd40 onto the now visible pistons; clean with a rag/ kitchen roll, tooth brush etc to remove any gunk. Now release lever and continue to pump the lever. When you've done this a few times, extend the pistons again and put a few drops of 3in1 oil on them. This should sort the problem out.

Personally I'd try and find some Holy rollers.... tried and tested and pretty reasonably priced

Lightest pressure possible, 45* angle with a stone cutting blade

I'm pretty sure you can't heat treat a re-weld....but someone a little more into metallurgy may be able to shed some more light on the matter

If I were you, either make two spacers ( 3mm thick, 10mm internal diameter I think ) which would be easy enough, or simply use your old cams as spacers as you suggested. I think you mean the bottom bracket axle spacers ( two in the picture, one is sitting on your downtube? ) They are needed as they act as a shoulder for the crank arm to butt up against when tightened.

Ive only rode competitions a couple of times but I experienced the same problems you are describing. I guess my advice would be to trackstand / balance for a couple of seconds and take some deep breathes to try and regain your composure for the next move or line

Awesome James, really impressive stuff! Nice to see some of those places again too

Unfortunately its only available in 1/8th So I ended up going for an identical looking one on velosolo.co.uk

In that case I wouldnt, most of the bike will end up being upgraded.

Depends on the Conti... im willing to bet youre thinking of a RQ which is just about the tallest tyre around. Rubs on a lot of frames, especially 375mm stays. DK/ RK / Minion / Hi-r should all fit fine I would have thought

When you weld you create a HAZ ( heat affected zone ) the rapid heating and cooling of the welding process removes all the heat treating from this area. As I understand it most frames are usually at a T6 treatment when bought, when the haz occurs it degrades this to 0 temper creating a far weaker area. This can be understood by looking at the yield strength for a given alloy at zero temper and T6 temper. In addition to this, crystallization occurs that weakens the integral structure of the aluminium. Somebody on here will no doubt have a better explanation than me, and I apologise if im wrong! Alex

Well worth changing to a diamond cutting disc... I bought a hilka one for £2

If you're desperate, buy a creepy crawler to tide you over, then get a lite when they're back ins tock Liam. At the end of the day its summer so in *theory* at least you should be riding in the dry, so bald tyres might actually help

Drill the head of the bolt off with a 6mm drill bit. remove the rest of the bolt with mole grips. Try an easy-out ( google it ) or screw extractor.

REALLY want those cranks! Id offer you for them if they were isis

Ah beauty was hoping someone was going to say that! Couldn't see it in my head for some reason... Any recommendations for one single half link? Apart from the try-all one on tarty, ill see what else there is first before dropping £5 on one link!

Hey there, quite happy with my z3r at the moment, but just wondering if there's a good way of increasing the CS length at all? Maybe similar to the new echo mk1 frames, I think this would make it a bit less twitchy than it is currently. Using 16:14 at the moment, which gives me 375mm ( or technically 374.7 ? ) Id like to increase it to around 383/5mm. One whole link increases chain length by about 25mm I think, so one half link must increase it by about 12.5ish. Only problem is I need about 6mm, any ideas? Also, are there any half-links worth bothering with?

Seriously impressive James, nailed some huge stuff there! Ride soon?

That was ace, got so much better recently! Really want to catch up with you now Edit was to my taste as well,

Usually listen to some aus hip-hop when i ride trials

Kenda Nevegals and small block eight come in a DTC dual tread compound. Problem is in trials we rely on the centre tread holding out at least as much as the sides so it has to be a pretty uniform tread pattern. Onza Sticky fingers were the reverse of the Kendas i think?

Ill be out, be good to see you boys again

Spanner under the crank, so it supports it. Clamp this into a vice. Then use an appropriately sized socket / socket extension br that rests on / in the bottom bracket axle. Heat the outside of the crank with a heat gun and proceed to twat the socket/extension out and thus the bb. Edit: Or, cut the BB axle so only a small portion is left in the crank, and instead of the spanner, support the crank on a slightly open vice.