Alex Dark

99% sure its just referred to as the Czar 07....along with the stock. Same as below?

Are you sponsored by Heatsink?

Try longer bolts and spacers...should all ow the frame to flex slightly more. Personally id just slam the booster like im running to get the most hold

Bit of an OTT comment there Ali?! Personal preference clearly... Last bike id call Ghetto....considerably nicer than my main bike Sky looks naice though, shame to hear about the boxx.

Tyre weight make s alot of difference purely because rotating weight ( when moving ) is greater than static weight. Rear tyre for me would be try-all stiky light if you ride smoothly and can afford it. If your a bit heavier or land heavily then Der Kaiser / Rain King ( conti ) If you want a light tyre but cant afford the try-all lite and dont mind sacrificing a bit of grip try the Kenda Nevegal 2.5 stik-e single ply. If you want a tyre that can take some shit, maxxis Minion 2.5 stiky 42a, slightly less grippy and long lasting as a Der Kaiser / Baron / RAin KIng You should notice a fair increase in grip ( and, depending on tyre choice ) puncture resistance.

nah

No worries, hope you get it sorted

Got a mig and some steel? grind some bits up and stick them together with the mig to make a 6 prong tool...clamp it in the vice, drill a whole down through it ( m8 ) use a long m8 with penny washers to bolt the crank to the tool. Scaffold bar off the end ( pedal removed ) and hope your tool holds Edit: Or if you have some round solid/ very thick tubing ( 40mm ish od ) grind some chunks out to tie in with the cutouts in the SL and use that instead of the bits of steel welded together. Edit 2: OPr even better an appropriate size socket that you could grind to fit

I did the same to my Echo CNC mounts too...really tidy job though, mine worked fine on my mod for ages until I saw some very cheap Echo TRs

Mine are 2011, ive only used the rear but it holds a grind really well. Better than my old Try-all and probably the same if a little worse than my Echo 07 rim.

Normally id agree with you...as most discs are around a 12mm master piston, but as said below \/ The Echo Tr disc and magura lever use 14mm pistons, coupled with a 24 or 25mm slave I have no idea how they have enough power for trials ( if they even do? ) The hydraulic advantage surely isn't enough to give sufficient pressure on the pads....having never used one I dont really know though.

If i were you I would look at something like an Onza rip or pro for that kind of money. A mod bike is usually easier to learn on and tend to be considerably better specced than comparable stocks. A good place to look for a bike is the FS section on here, or obviously Ebay. Sometimes decent bikes come up on gumtree too. If it were me buying the bike I would look for the following: Negatives: Dented rims Heavily buckled rims ( 1-2mm is rarely an issue ) ANY loose bearings, headset is the exception which could just need tightening. If wheel/crank bearings are loose ( grab the wheel/crank arms and rock side to side to feel for any play ) chances are the wheel/bb either has open bearings ( cup and cone ) which dont last all that long and are badly adjusted or the bearings are shot which points to an abused bike. Rear/front brake if magura hs33 ( hydraulic with calipers that push pads onto the rim ) check the lever actuates the pads and locks the wheel in place If disc brake, wheel bike forwards then snatch brake... if contaminated or really horrendously setup the brake wont lock all that effectively and youll get a horrible shriek. Back pedal the cranks, look for any weird noises coming from the rear/front freewheel/hub apart from the usual clicking or buzzing of the pawls/ ring engaging. Check the frame and forks mainly for cracks before buying. Obviously every bike is different, but the top of disc mounts and magura mounts are one of the most highly stressed places on the bike. A couple of dents isnt really an issue, but I avoid bikes whose downtube and especially chainstays look like the surface of the moon. Tyre tread is important as at the bare minimum youll be looking at £38 to replace both tyres ( mod . CC rear, SB8 front ) Brands to look for would be Echo, Onza, Trialtech and Koxx ( loads more but those are a few decent ones ) Any other questions, give me a shout Alex

If youre still in need, PM me about one

I've got a newer Zhi h0le style rim, and its badass...holds grinds really well.

ah nice one thought youd pop up Sweet, long as he gets it sorted

Hi there, need some help sorting a headset for someone... he says its the same as a Monty which is listed on Tarty as internal... but everyone else seems to call them semi-integrated. Its for a speedrace frame if thats any help, and no it isn't available normally so i can't call tarty etc. I'm 99% sure that the following headset would fit, but just to make sure... will it? Token Headset I know there are different angles which is the main reason im asking, and the guy doesnt have the tools to measure the angle. ( Campognolo 45/45 and some other 36/36 spec? )

I'll be there if im not up with family this year

http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/showthread.php?t=44804

As above, for that budget definitely Zhi frames...if you cab stretch to it the Echo 2011 frames look pretty epic for the price Ask Seabass about the Zhi

sorry was thinking that the top edge of the brake pad would be parallel with the seat stay that the brake mount is on.... of course it isn't so if you file as per video it should come out fine. Ive never heard of anyone facing brake mounts like that? I suppose it would be possible to set up in a mill but i certainly wouldn't try it! I doubt the warranty would be affected if you haven't removed much material , neither would the DT scratch.

No matter how much you filed the mounts, it looks like the mounting holes are off ( so like Tris says the brake mounts are probably welded wonky.

Edit was cool, some of those places looked great to ride... riding looks really dialled and chilled in that vid