Monty brake spray is a bit oldskool my friend! the modern alternative is to use tar on the braking surface on the rim..it lasts longer, works better and doesnt leave gunky white stuff all over said rims... ( tar can be cleaned of with mr sheen ! ) the other alternative is to put a grind ( scrape the side of the rim using an angle grinder to get lots of little vertical cuts to improve braking performance, it also helps channel water away ) on your rim and accordingly use harder compound brake blocks to compensate for increased friction and therefore faster pad wear.
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A mavic 117/ 317 is an extremely light weight xc rim that wouldnt stand up to 5 mins of abuse on atrials bike...even as a front wheel. Campy havent made even an mtb rim for a fair while (to my knowledge) and therefore like the lightweight mavic wouldnt be up to trials abuse. dont get me wrong, mavic are awesome rims , and the 721 / 521 are more than strong enough for most riders...although a bit skinny by modern standards. drilled wide wheels are the norm now...( 35mm+). locking your wheel certainly isnt bad!! No-one toes in their pads anymore ( In the mtb/trials world), as it reduces noice and power (due to the pad impacting the rim then flexing, meaning braking power is lost). Pads have to be setup perfectly parallel to the rim...with a soft compound pad on a smooth rim, and a hard compund on a grind. Nowadays its most common to have a hydraulic,or cable disc on the front with the usually the biggest rotor possible to get maximum power, and an hs33 ( hydraulic rim caliper brake ) or powerful vee brake, normally either an avid or a very top-end shimano offering ( xt/xtr ) or